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New to shipbuilding! S-100 in the dry dock
jjcadenhead
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Florida, United States
Joined: November 02, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 - 12:46 AM UTC
Hello all!!! I have been watching this site for a long time now. I am totally amazing at the qualifying of everyone's work. I have been building armor for around 10 years. I have decided to take the plunge into world of Floaty Things. My first project will be the Revell 1/72 s-100 with Flak. I picked it up at a great price, 20 US dollars. I have seen some great builds of this kit on here. I have a few questions if anyone has the time to answer.

I picked up the ArtWox deck for the is kit. Can it be attached after the kit is painted or do I need to masked those areas off? Are there any clearence issues with the deck?

Fordboy
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Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 - 02:59 AM UTC
Ahoy John

Welcome to the floaty side.

You have picked a great subject the Revell S100 Flak.

I haven't personally used the Artwox deck on the S100 but reviewing it online I suspect you may have to go with a combination of applying/masking and applying after paint.

I would ensure its all painted and deck installed prior to weathering.

I am sure other more experienced modelers on here can also tender an opinion.

Cheers


Sean
rolltide31
#377
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Texas, United States
Joined: June 27, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 - 05:47 AM UTC
John,

Welcome to the wetter side of the hobby. I too was a for hard armor fan until I caught the seaside bug. Looking forward to seeing your S100.

As far as the wooden deck, my personal method is applying after I paint. The adhesive sticks to paint on deck better than clean plastic.

But before applying the deck either apply a layer of stain or if you want it clean a simple gloss coat will seal it. After that apply to the ship.

I know others have other methods. You have come to the right place for advice, the guys on this site are amazingly talented.

Dave
xrz100
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Berlin, Germany
Joined: May 28, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 - 12:24 PM UTC
Hello John,

welcome to the side and builders of small water vessels. Torpedo carrier is my favorite weapon and Therefore I build the S100 form Italeri and scratch build a S100 into and S18.



1:72 is not my scale (to small for RC to see it on the water) but this is the only deviation we have. If you would like to pimp your boat with some extras:

 long mine rails für LMB and TMB mines.
 Rescue dingy, Life rafts
 fog cans container (already available in 1:72 scale)
 Torpedo targeting computer.

Than, let me know I have most of the stuff ready in 1:35 on shapeways (Iron-Models: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/iron-models ), scaling should be a smaller problem

This just a friendly hint what you can make happen to your model. But at the end I am a builder not a seller and therefore more interested in experiencing your skills with the S100.

Bis denne

Christian

I am currently up to a larger scratch build with my friend Robert Palmacci (similar to Alo a source of knowledge and experience) Torpedoboat WOLF in 1:35 (264 cm in length), I am currently make the frames and have completed 6 out of 21. Simultaneously we are producing the wheelhouse and have also printed the smaller funnel ….not enough for a building report yet, but soon….
jjcadenhead
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Florida, United States
Joined: November 02, 2010
KitMaker: 32 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 16, 2016 - 03:46 AM UTC
Thanks for the feedback. It is greatly appreciated.

I'll worry about the deck at a later time.

I picked the Griffon PE for the kit. WOAH!!!! It's so much more involved that armor PE. I have see the pictures from the builds on here, but seeing it in person................ No wonder it takes months or years to finish a battleship or carrier!! My respect for you guys get went up a few hundred notches!!!
Biggles2
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, March 16, 2016 - 10:38 PM UTC
Excellent price on that kit - I paid much more for mine. I'm building mine also with Griffon PE. Note on Griffon: much of it is insane - they expect you to form functioning 1/72 hinges; the 3.7 cm Flak is extremely flimsy (but looks good when well made), and the shield sections are held together with only those afore-mentioned hinges. I used thin strips of styrene on the reverse side to hold the shield together. They also expect the modeler to cut out and replace the entire mid-section engine room roof with PE. I found nothing so terribly wrong with the kit to warrant such surgery (and more damage could be done than good). As usual with most such extensive PE sets, much of it is superfluous and ends up not used. If you're going to go all out on your build, there are these: http://www.cmkkits.com/en/ships/u-boot-ix-weapon-set-for-revell/ It's for 1/72 U Boot, but also appropriate for S-Boots. And don't forget $100's of Archer rivets!!
jjcadenhead
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Thursday, March 17, 2016 - 01:09 AM UTC
Biggles - Did you get the premium set? I have the detail set n72002. I agree with you on some of the parts Griffon wants you to replace. They want to replace the front wall of the "bridge." (I have to learn ship talk) From what I can tell you won't really be able to see it. I'm going to pick and choose what I want to replace. I'll look into the weapons set. Thanks!!

J
RedDuster
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 01, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, March 17, 2016 - 02:14 AM UTC
Hi John,

I have used a few artworx decks, I prefer to paint and add, I am always nervous about painting near the deck when it is down, even sealed and masked there is always the chance, of some paint bleeding into the wood. Don't let that put you off, they look great down.

I hope you will be blogging your build, if so I would be watching with interest, that Griffon upgrade sounds real fun.

Cheers

Si
Biggles2
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Posted: Thursday, March 17, 2016 - 04:46 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Biggles - Did you get the premium set? I have the detail set n72002. I agree with you on some of the parts Griffon wants you to replace. They want to replace the front wall of the "bridge." (I have to learn ship talk) From what I can tell you won't really be able to see it. I'm going to pick and choose what I want to replace. I'll look into the weapons set. Thanks!!

J

Yeah, I got the BIG set as it was on sale. Little did I realize there was so much I wasn't going to use. The bridge front is definitely visible, and replacing it will improve the model. BTW; the target ranging computer (the box thing with binoculars on top) is completely wrong. There's a very good photo of it here, about half way down the page https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1600&bih=760&q=german+schnell+boot&oq=german+schnell+boot&gs_l=img.12...2700.7549.0.9714.19.12.0.7.7.0.149.1226.7j5.12.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..0.17.1244.LzJyu4n4bSI#hl=en&tbm=isch&q=german+schnell+boot+bridge The platform it is situated on is also about a scale foot too high. If you have any scrap styrene, etc, it's a simple shape to scratch.
Biggles2
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Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, March 17, 2016 - 07:56 PM UTC
Speaking of SBoats...anybody know what rivet size was used? I'm using some Archer but they seem a little too small and too close together. The real one's would be measured in Metric, but what would be the closest in American (or is it English)? Archer's are a little too expensive to go experimenting with. Probably have to go with HO scale rivets for 1/72 S Boat.
jjcadenhead
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Florida, United States
Joined: November 02, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, March 19, 2016 - 08:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Excellent price on that kit - I paid much more for mine. I'm building mine also with Griffon PE. Note on Griffon: much of it is insane - they expect you to form functioning 1/72 hinges; the 3.7 cm Flak is extremely flimsy (but looks good when well made), and the shield sections are held together with only those afore-mentioned hinges. I used thin strips of styrene on the reverse side to hold the shield together. They also expect the modeler to cut out and replace the entire mid-section engine room roof with PE. I found nothing so terribly wrong with the kit to warrant such surgery (and more damage could be done than good). As usual with most such extensive PE sets, much of it is superfluous and ends up not used. If you're going to go all out on your build, there are these: http://www.cmkkits.com/en/ships/u-boot-ix-weapon-set-for-revell/ It's for 1/72 U Boot, but also appropriate for S-Boots. And don't forget $100's of Archer rivets!!


I think I will order both sets. I really want to use the Flak. I am still in the information gathering stage. I hope to start in a few weeks.

I need more information about these rivets!

I must ask the million dollar question.......... paint color. I have been reading up and there seems to be a wide range of suggestions for the white and deck grey. I have quick access to Tamiya and Model Master Arcyl paints. I prefer acrylics.

I appreciate the feedback and support!!

J
Biggles2
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Posted: Saturday, March 19, 2016 - 08:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text



I need more information about these rivets!

J


I settled on Archer #88103 HO rivets, and #88016 weld beads.

The rivets look oversize at first until you paint over them.
Biggles2
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Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 04:13 AM UTC
I might add that it's better to paint or prime before applying Archer rivets and welds, etc. I think bare plastic is too smooth for them. Even after a healthy dose of setting solution, when dry, are still in danger of lifting off, or falling off at the touch. So, paint/prime - apply decals - final paint job.
jjcadenhead
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Monday, March 21, 2016 - 03:52 AM UTC
Your bridge looks great. Did you use a lot of the PE?
Removed by original poster on 03/22/16 - 00:04:09 (GMT).
Biggles2
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Posted: Monday, March 21, 2016 - 07:55 PM UTC
I used most of the PE except for: the 2 Kalotte segments with armored flaps - having to cut out plastic sections and replace with PE looked too tricky; the vertical armored plates surrounding the cockpit - they are the same size and shape of the PE windshield frames, so again, why bother; and the side "wings" sections which protect the torpedo launcher mechanisms - again for the same reasons. No doubt, ultimately, this PE would improve the look of the model, but there's too much chance of errors when doing that much surgery - sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone! If you're going to use rivets buy 2 or three sheets - you'll need them! Not only on the Kalotte, but also on the forecastle. One sheet of weld seams is more than enough.
Biggles2
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Posted: Monday, March 21, 2016 - 08:19 PM UTC
More info on the cockpit. On the rear bulkhead you will see on the left, a recessed panel - that is the door to the chartroom; and on the right, a projecting lump just next to the step. That lump should not be there. That is a communicating window to the chartroom which is hinged at the top and opens inwards. I cut it off and replaced with a small rectangle of plastic sheet. It's not correct as it should fit flush with the bulkhead, but it's barely going to be seen and makes more space for the bridge crew. There should also be a vertical rack for saddle-drum magazines either side of the bridge tucked in between the forward bulkhead and the folding seats, for an MG 08, whenever fitted. I simplified mine to a section of styrene strip, but might go back and add more detail. Again, this may not be very visible when figures are added.
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