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S boat build
Biggles2
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 05:04 AM UTC
Pity there's not a current campaign for small boats. Looks like I might actually finish a model! This is Revell's 1/72 Schnellboot. I've been working on it for a few weeks and completing sub-assemblies. So far I'm using Griffon PE, which is, at times, a real PITA, and some scratch detailing.




1001 Archer rivets and weld beads later, I got the forecastle and bridge/wheelhouse done.
GazzaS
#424
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 06:58 AM UTC
That conning tower looks very nice, mate!
JJ1973
#345
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 09:13 AM UTC
That's PRETTY nice work on the rivets and weld beads - -!! Looking really great so far!!

Cheers,
Jan
Cosimodo
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 02:58 PM UTC
Ditto that! The rivets look very convincing. Is 1001 the finish, or have you only just got started

cheers
Michael
Biggles2
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 07:06 PM UTC
I think (hope) that all the rivetting is finished. The rivets look a little over-size, but when painted, look better. I think it's because the actual rivet is smaller than the colored dot it's printed on. These are HO scale rivets. The N scale would have been good for the smaller rivets, but the scale spacing makes them too close together, and they end up looking more like a weld bead. It's difficult to study the actual rivet pattern from photos because the rivets sometimes don't even show much. I may have left out a few rivets - any rivet-counters out there?
Biggles2
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 07:30 PM UTC
The interior of the bridge. Looks a little spartan, but there's not much reference available. Again I added some riveting (the N scale ones here), and corrected the communication window between bridge and chart room, and added simplified vertical MG ammo racks. PE doors from the Griffon set.

BTW, the targeting computer platform has to be lowered by about 2 1/2 - 3 mm's, as it's too high for a properly proportioned computer column.



A new and improved targeting computer:



And the roof of the chart-room:


I scratched new cable spreaders, and the radar with clear radome. I made the clear radome from the end of a plastic capsule that a model RR company (Kaydee) uses to market tiny coupler springs in. They're almost exactly the right diameter.

And finally, the chart room rear wall:


I correctly repositioned the cylindrical vent (or whatever), and added a wood platform between the signallers steps, as some S 100 class had them. All for now!
JJ1973
#345
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 10:58 PM UTC
...and not only your rivets and weld beats look great, all your other build here as well!! Very nice job!

Cheers,
Jan

- - but chart room rear wall, lower row, I think you're one rivet short
TGarthConnelly
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Connecticut, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 11:04 PM UTC
In my opinion, you're doing a good job.
Longshanks8
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, April 04, 2016 - 11:12 PM UTC
Some good work going into this

I'll be watching your progress with interest

Kev
Biggles2
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Posted: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 - 03:42 AM UTC
Thanks. More pics tomorrow.
Biggles2
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Posted: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 - 03:47 AM UTC

Quoted Text

In my opinion, you're doing a good job.



I better be...I'm using one of your books for reference!
TGarthConnelly
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Posted: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 - 09:36 PM UTC
Lordy, no ................................


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

In my opinion, you're doing a good job.



I better be...I'm using one of your books for reference!

Black_sheep
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Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Tuesday, April 05, 2016 - 10:15 PM UTC
Impressive start so far! I will surely watch your blog as I have the same boat with a lot TLC lurking at the shelf...

May I ask you which specific rivets from Archer you did used at your boat? They have so much different

Cheers

Thomas
Fordboy
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Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 01:40 AM UTC
Ahoy Biggles2

Great subject.

Great build.

Great thread.

Please keep posting the updates.

Cheers


Sean
Biggles2
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Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 03:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Impressive start so far! I will surely watch your blog as I have the same boat with a lot TLC lurking at the shelf...

May I ask you which specific rivets from Archer you did used at your boat? They have so much different

Cheers

Thomas



Hi Thomas;
I used Archer HO #88103 1.25" rivets, but on retrospect I might have used #88025, or 88026 for the smaller rivets. For the welds, #88062. http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html
Biggles2
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Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 04:11 AM UTC
Hi Garth;
I'm using three books (including yours) as reference. I'm just about ready to start painting and all three books are vague, or contradictory, concerning the hull colors. Since I'm building a late S100 class, would the lower hull be painted overall black, or red with black bootstripe? Or does it matter?
sighbeerguy
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 08:39 AM UTC
Will be watching this build with interest.

Be careful when building up the torpedo tubes, Revell made a goof - the loading doors should swing outwards towards the guard rails, not inwards as the instructions show.

prinzeugen.com

Good on-line reference, big section devoted to S-boats.
Biggles2
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Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 08:18 PM UTC

Quoted Text



Be careful when building up the torpedo tubes, Revell made a goof - the loading doors should swing outwards towards the guard rails, not inwards as the instructions show.



I missed that detail! Too late for that as they're already completed, but as I'm modelling them closed it won't be overly obvious.
Biggles2
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Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 08:37 PM UTC
Some more progress pics:

Cable turnbuckles. May not be 100% accurate, but they're better than nothing, and are good-looking turnbuckles. They're actually 1/48 scale WWI aircraft turnbuckles from Gaspatch.





Dry fit of components. I combined Griffon PE parts and original kit parts on the torpedo racks as some of the PE was really impossible! The gun PE really looks good, but the 3.7 cm is completely PE and is very fragile. I've ordered replacements from CMK - they're resin, PE, and turned brass. Should look even better. I scratched new containers on the men's mess roof, either side of the hatch. The kit ones were simple moulded-on cones.
More later.
Biggles2
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Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 08:53 PM UTC
My motley crew. Crew men are from Hecker-Goros, and the bridge crew from Andrea:


Looks like the officers have been into the rum! Or are doing a victory jig! They're posed that way to suit the bridge cockpit.
I don't know why Hecker-Goros had to include one guy with pre-war cap!
TGarthConnelly
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Connecticut, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 09:38 PM UTC
The 1:72 late war Schnellboot Stan built for me has an overall black bottom - which - as I was told by David Krakow, correct ... so ---


Quoted Text

Hi Garth;
I'm using three books (including yours) as reference. I'm just about ready to start painting and all three books are vague, or contradictory, concerning the hull colors. Since I'm building a late S100 class, would the lower hull be painted overall black, or red with black bootstripe? Or does it matter?

Biggles2
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Posted: Thursday, April 07, 2016 - 02:49 AM UTC
Thanks Garth!
TGarthConnelly
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Posted: Thursday, April 07, 2016 - 03:12 AM UTC
Rightiroo.


Quoted Text

Thanks Garth!

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