Another ship that took part in the Bismarck chase, under the command of Captain Philip Vian, flotilla leader of the 4th destroyer flotilla. Cossack along with 4 other ships of the flotilla made torpedo attacks on the Bismarck on the night of 26-27 May.
The Trumpeter tribal has three issues, not enough sheer on foredeck, German style ships boat sand an eight barrel pompom instead of a four.
The latter two are an easy fix as I have some WEM four barrel units and their boat set. The former will take a little more fixing, but it is not beyond the with of man.
Here is what I am using.
A bit more detail of the parts.
Plan to get started tomorrow,
Cheers.
Si
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HMS Cossack May 1941
RedDuster
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 12:18 AM UTC
Posted: Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 03:06 AM UTC
Looks like this will be another of your excellent builds.
Will be following.
Cheers,
Joe
Will be following.
Cheers,
Joe
Posted: Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 05:38 AM UTC
Looking forward to this Simon. I haven't seen this kit before but will be most interested in how you deal with the structural flaw. Good luck!
cheers
Michael
cheers
Michael
RedDuster
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Posted: Saturday, April 09, 2016 - 12:18 PM UTC
Thanks Joe,
Welcome aboard.
Hi Michael,
Basically it is not a bad kit, the mouldings are good and clean, nicely detailed open bridge, just some silly mistakes.
Will be tackling the foredeck today, so keep watching mate.
Cheers
Si
Welcome aboard.
Hi Michael,
Basically it is not a bad kit, the mouldings are good and clean, nicely detailed open bridge, just some silly mistakes.
Will be tackling the foredeck today, so keep watching mate.
Cheers
Si
Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 09:33 AM UTC
That's another nice one, Si!!
Not really worth mentioning that I'm in, is it?!?
If I would be just a little bit faster with my builds - - I was considering the Zulu, if I'm not mistaken, she was in for the Bismarck Chase. But no proper PE for her yet. I read about that sheer to the bow, curious to see how you handle that, I might copy it later on...
Looking forward to your build!!
Cheers,
Jan
Not really worth mentioning that I'm in, is it?!?
If I would be just a little bit faster with my builds - - I was considering the Zulu, if I'm not mistaken, she was in for the Bismarck Chase. But no proper PE for her yet. I read about that sheer to the bow, curious to see how you handle that, I might copy it later on...
Looking forward to your build!!
Cheers,
Jan
warshipbuild
United Kingdom
Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 03:46 PM UTC
I have alll 3 Trumpy Tribals - I bought them all in the mistaken belief that they'd all be different to each other, but sadly not so.
I managed to get 3 x WEM HA rear turret replacements, along with one ship's boats set and one 4-barreled pom pom, so it looks like I'm going to be short of 2 sets of the correct ship's boats and at least 2 4-barreled pom poms if I'm going to complete all 3 ships. I am pleased to see that the Tribal PE set is available once again from the WEM site though.
For those of you who have the WEM PE for this kit, there is a section in their instructions which tells you how to overcome the bow sheer problem.
Frank Spahr describes it thus -
"I duly started by following their recommendations on correcting the missing sheer.
This involves raising the first 47 mm of the forecastle deck by 2 mms at the bow and fairing that in, plus relocating the hawsepipes."
http://www.modelingmadness.com/review/misc/ships/gb/spahresk.htm
I managed to get 3 x WEM HA rear turret replacements, along with one ship's boats set and one 4-barreled pom pom, so it looks like I'm going to be short of 2 sets of the correct ship's boats and at least 2 4-barreled pom poms if I'm going to complete all 3 ships. I am pleased to see that the Tribal PE set is available once again from the WEM site though.
For those of you who have the WEM PE for this kit, there is a section in their instructions which tells you how to overcome the bow sheer problem.
Frank Spahr describes it thus -
"I duly started by following their recommendations on correcting the missing sheer.
This involves raising the first 47 mm of the forecastle deck by 2 mms at the bow and fairing that in, plus relocating the hawsepipes."
http://www.modelingmadness.com/review/misc/ships/gb/spahresk.htm
RedDuster
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 05:16 PM UTC
Thanks Jan,
You are correct, Zulu was a part of the 4th Destroyer Flotilla that made the night attack on the Bismarck, From Memory, Maori and Sikh were the other two tribals, along the Polish N class Piorun.
I am under way, Sunday's post will follow this evening.
Cheers
Si
You are correct, Zulu was a part of the 4th Destroyer Flotilla that made the night attack on the Bismarck, From Memory, Maori and Sikh were the other two tribals, along the Polish N class Piorun.
I am under way, Sunday's post will follow this evening.
Cheers
Si
RedDuster
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Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 05:19 PM UTC
Hi Dave,
Thanks for looking in. The method mentioned in the WEM instructions is the basis for my modification
.
Cheers
Si
Thanks for looking in. The method mentioned in the WEM instructions is the basis for my modification
.
Cheers
Si
warshipbuild
United Kingdom
Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 07:38 PM UTC
Si,
Do you happen to know if there is enough PE from a single WEM set to do 2 ships?
I gather they provide for 2 different foremast set-ups, but I am guessing that there may only be enough for one radar set-up.
Am just wondering how far I can make a single PE set stretch!
Do you happen to know if there is enough PE from a single WEM set to do 2 ships?
I gather they provide for 2 different foremast set-ups, but I am guessing that there may only be enough for one radar set-up.
Am just wondering how far I can make a single PE set stretch!
RedDuster
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 11:20 PM UTC
Hi Dave,
Depends what you want to do, there are two lattice foremasts, but only one set of radars for them, although thee is a full radar fit for the kit tripod foremast, early and late 282 yagi antenna, although only one type 285
There is only enough railings, liferaft racks and other bits and pieces for one vessel, although there is enough in the way of quad 0.5" and 20mm for at least a couple.
The simple answer is , you could do a basic job on two ships, and scrounge some maindeck and fo'c's'le railings from spares or another a stock set.
Hope that helps.
Si
Depends what you want to do, there are two lattice foremasts, but only one set of radars for them, although thee is a full radar fit for the kit tripod foremast, early and late 282 yagi antenna, although only one type 285
There is only enough railings, liferaft racks and other bits and pieces for one vessel, although there is enough in the way of quad 0.5" and 20mm for at least a couple.
The simple answer is , you could do a basic job on two ships, and scrounge some maindeck and fo'c's'le railings from spares or another a stock set.
Hope that helps.
Si
RedDuster
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2016 - 11:27 PM UTC
Posted: Monday, April 11, 2016 - 02:52 AM UTC
watching with interest, Si
I have this exact same kit and AM in the stash, with plans to convert to Punjabi (to tie in with the KGV) so will be paying very close attention.
I have this exact same kit and AM in the stash, with plans to convert to Punjabi (to tie in with the KGV) so will be paying very close attention.
Posted: Monday, April 11, 2016 - 09:26 AM UTC
Hey Si,
you're really into this hull-reshaping business now, are you?!?
I have to admit, the sanding and getting it into the correct shape still looks a bit dreadful to me... but filling the gap with plastic stripes certainly ensures that you get it parallel. Interesting approach! Looks good though!! I think I am going to try it, once time is up for one of my Tribal kits...
Cheers,
Jan
you're really into this hull-reshaping business now, are you?!?
I have to admit, the sanding and getting it into the correct shape still looks a bit dreadful to me... but filling the gap with plastic stripes certainly ensures that you get it parallel. Interesting approach! Looks good though!! I think I am going to try it, once time is up for one of my Tribal kits...
Cheers,
Jan
RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, April 11, 2016 - 05:35 PM UTC
Hi Russ
Welcome aboard mate. Keep watching, you may see "How not to correct the Hull!"
Cheers
Si
Welcome aboard mate. Keep watching, you may see "How not to correct the Hull!"
Cheers
Si
RedDuster
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, April 11, 2016 - 05:38 PM UTC
Hi Jan,
Just a bit at the moment. final shaping on this may take some time (and swearing), and all I will say at the end is - It will be more accurate than when I started. (I Hope)
Cheers
Si
Just a bit at the moment. final shaping on this may take some time (and swearing), and all I will say at the end is - It will be more accurate than when I started. (I Hope)
Cheers
Si
warshipbuild
United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, April 11, 2016 - 07:47 PM UTC
Phil Reeder did his thus -
"This is my solution to the sheer problem on Trumpy`s 350th Tribal.I bent to foc'sle deck up by 2mm, supported by a rod of plastic inserted in the hull crossways.
The sides were built using a small triangular pieces of plastic card ,and and any gaps filled in with "Perfect Body Putty(good stuff that!). I also filled in the holes for the anchors as these are set too low anyway.
I think I`ve now got somewhere near the correct sheer."
Also, I read that instead of chasing A/M 4 barrel pom-pom replacemtns, Phil just cut off the outermost pairs of barrels from the kit-supplied 8-barreled items and it worked well.
"This is my solution to the sheer problem on Trumpy`s 350th Tribal.I bent to foc'sle deck up by 2mm, supported by a rod of plastic inserted in the hull crossways.
The sides were built using a small triangular pieces of plastic card ,and and any gaps filled in with "Perfect Body Putty(good stuff that!). I also filled in the holes for the anchors as these are set too low anyway.
I think I`ve now got somewhere near the correct sheer."
Also, I read that instead of chasing A/M 4 barrel pom-pom replacemtns, Phil just cut off the outermost pairs of barrels from the kit-supplied 8-barreled items and it worked well.
RedDuster
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 - 02:28 AM UTC
Hi Dave,
That is another way of doing it. am intending to drill out new hawse pipes. Have to see how the sanding and reshaping goes first.
wish me luck
Cheers
Si
That is another way of doing it. am intending to drill out new hawse pipes. Have to see how the sanding and reshaping goes first.
wish me luck
Cheers
Si
TRM5150
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 07:35 AM UTC
Nice one on the bench there Si!! Some, ummm, ambitious work on the bow....making it look easy my friend! Bring on the sanding!
RedDuster
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 01:05 PM UTC
Thanks Todd,
The sanding is going to be "fun" especially as the ship was in an overall light grey, MS4a I would think from the information I have. Just right to show any imperfections.
Cheers.
Si
The sanding is going to be "fun" especially as the ship was in an overall light grey, MS4a I would think from the information I have. Just right to show any imperfections.
Cheers.
Si
Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 02:34 PM UTC
Hi Si,
I can tell you from recent experience sanding is a great way to pass some hours. Nice repetitive work but I'm sure as you work your way through the grit sizes you'll get that smooth finish.
Nice way to pack out the gap too.
cheers
Michael
I can tell you from recent experience sanding is a great way to pass some hours. Nice repetitive work but I'm sure as you work your way through the grit sizes you'll get that smooth finish.
Nice way to pack out the gap too.
cheers
Michael
RedDuster
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 04:37 PM UTC
Thanks Michael,
Bridging the gap with plastic strip did help to keep the deck square to the hull, sanding can be quite therapeutic, nice little job for this weekend.
Cheers
Si
Bridging the gap with plastic strip did help to keep the deck square to the hull, sanding can be quite therapeutic, nice little job for this weekend.
Cheers
Si
RedDuster
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Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 02:28 AM UTC
First sand down, the moulded on reinforcing ring around the hawse pipe was removed at the same time, and the holes plugged with plastic rod.
Bit more filler, and the plug in the old hawse pipe has been sanded and the new hawse pipes drilled and filed.
About done, I think, the green filler is Citadel "Liquid green stuff", great stuff, the reinforcing rings around the new hawse pipe has been added (copper wire rolled around plastic rod, and shaped with the above mentioned liquied green stuff.
The shafts and rudder also added.
A coat of the usual Halford's red primer. created a little bit of a knuckle, but I think I can live with that as the sheer looks about right to me, hawse hole needs a bit more work. After that masking and a coat of black for the boot topping.
More tomorrow (I hope)
Cheers
Si
Bit more filler, and the plug in the old hawse pipe has been sanded and the new hawse pipes drilled and filed.
About done, I think, the green filler is Citadel "Liquid green stuff", great stuff, the reinforcing rings around the new hawse pipe has been added (copper wire rolled around plastic rod, and shaped with the above mentioned liquied green stuff.
The shafts and rudder also added.
A coat of the usual Halford's red primer. created a little bit of a knuckle, but I think I can live with that as the sheer looks about right to me, hawse hole needs a bit more work. After that masking and a coat of black for the boot topping.
More tomorrow (I hope)
Cheers
Si
Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 02:43 AM UTC
Hi Simon,
That bow sheer correction is looking really good!
Does that Citadel putty sand well?
Cheers,
Joe
That bow sheer correction is looking really good!
Does that Citadel putty sand well?
Cheers,
Joe
RedDuster
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 03:11 AM UTC
Hi Joe,
Yes it does, it is like a thick paint, easiest way to apply it with an old paintbrush. It is water soluble, a wet finger can save a lot of sanding, but what is left sands very nicely.
Cheers
Si
Yes it does, it is like a thick paint, easiest way to apply it with an old paintbrush. It is water soluble, a wet finger can save a lot of sanding, but what is left sands very nicely.
Cheers
Si
Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 05:55 AM UTC
Thanks Simon...I will have to try this product on those tiny
imperfections left behind that other fillers can't handle.
Thanks again!
Joe
imperfections left behind that other fillers can't handle.
Thanks again!
Joe