| Subject: Roden Lozenge Decals |
 | Mike Sawicki
SuccorPhysh | Location: Texas, United States
Member Since: June 24, 2007
Posts: 81 entire network,
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| Posted: Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 02:25 PM UTC |
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Is it just me, or are the Roden lozenge decals very difficult to work with? I've read the posts about other Roden decals and their challenges. I've been trying to finish my first DVII and its about driven me to distraction. The decals are exceedingly fragile, they do not adhere to the surface, do not conform to the details and flake off at every opportunity. I've been using a variety of solvents on them, MicroSol, Solvaset, etc. with no success. Last tried to use Future to adhere to the surface and got crazy white spots everywhere. Anyone have a trick to doing this or should I scrap the lot?  |
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 |  Stephen T. Lawson
JackFlash
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| Location: Colorado, United States
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| Posted: Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 03:15 PM UTC |
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PVA (School) glue & distilled water (50/50 mix.) |
Are you frequently seen with blood shot eyes from staying up til 3am to get the right colour scheme on your latest WWI model?
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 | Karl
BOC262 | Location: New Jersey, United States
Member Since: April 15, 2007
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| Posted: Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 03:54 PM UTC |
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Quoted Text
Is it just me, or are the Roden lozenge decals very difficult to work with? I've read the posts about other Roden decals and their challenges. I've been trying to finish my first DVII and its about driven me to distraction. The decals are exceedingly fragile, they do not adhere to the surface, do not conform to the details and flake off at every opportunity.
I've been using a variety of solvents on them, MicroSol, Solvaset, etc. with no success. Last tried to use Future to adhere to the surface and got crazy white spots everywhere.
Anyone have a trick to doing this or should I scrap the lot?
That's been my experience too. I finally threw in the towel and went to aftermarket decals. |
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| Stephen T. Lawson
JackFlash
Associate Editor
| Location: Colorado, United States
Member Since: January 25, 2004
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| Posted: Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 08:21 PM UTC |
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Before there was Microsculpt we did with what we had. Here are the Roden lozenge decals.   |
Are you frequently seen with blood shot eyes from staying up til 3am to get the right colour scheme on your latest WWI model?
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 | Steffen Arndt
alpha_tango | Location: Germany
Member Since: September 07, 2005
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| Posted: Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 08:54 PM UTC |
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Yep, also used it on my first Fokker D.VII ... lots of Daco red and pressure and swearing ... luckily I did Loerzer (only needs upper wings lower surface and lower wings upper surface .. so I had some spares)
Maybe try applying it with Future .. not yet tested by me (but I did with other decals)
all the best
Steffen |
| DULCE ET DECORUM EST PRO HOBBY MORI | |  |
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| Mike Sawicki
SuccorPhysh | Location: Texas, United States
Member Since: June 24, 2007
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| Posted: Monday, October 12, 2009 - 03:19 AM UTC |
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I feel better now knowing it is not just me and my limited skills. What is the best aftermarket supplier for the lozenge? Or does that open up another can of worms? |
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 | terri werner
thegirl | Location: Alberta, Canada
Member Since: January 19, 2008
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| Posted: Monday, October 12, 2009 - 03:41 AM UTC |
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Microsculpt is the best out there http://www.microsculpt.com/ He has the four colour upper, lower and the five colour upper and lower lozenge . |
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| Mike Sawicki
SuccorPhysh | Location: Texas, United States
Member Since: June 24, 2007
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| Posted: Monday, October 12, 2009 - 09:07 AM UTC |
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So I just ordered a set from Mircrosculpt. Now, one more question. What is the best way to remove the lozenge decals that I have managed to hammer down so far? Arrgh.
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 | Carl Althaus
CaptainA | Location: Indiana, United States
Member Since: May 14, 2007
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| Posted: Monday, October 12, 2009 - 10:02 AM UTC |
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When I had that problem, I removed the old decals using tape. Just stick the tape to the lozenge and pull it off sharply. Masking tape worked for me, but if yours stuck well, you might need to use something stickier, like duct tape.
The microsculpt decals are fabulous. I was very, very happy with their ease of use and how they ended up looking when finished. I will use them on every lozenge build in the future.
Good luck |
Now, to quote Monty Python "Albatros"
"Treat 'em Rough",
Carl
Current Build---A Jug, currently stalled, a B-17 for the Mighty Eighth Campaign, and the Wingnut group Build which has started. I have also been delving into the darkside (Muscle Cars | |  |
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| Mike Sawicki
SuccorPhysh | Location: Texas, United States
Member Since: June 24, 2007
Posts: 81 entire network,
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| Posted: Monday, October 12, 2009 - 01:20 PM UTC |
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Thanks for the suggestion. I am really looking forward to a different experience with the MIcrosculpt decals. After the pain of the Roden set, almost anything else will be appreciated.
Now, where did I put that duct tape? |
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| terri werner
thegirl | Location: Alberta, Canada
Member Since: January 19, 2008
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| Posted: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 01:23 AM UTC |
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You won't have any trouble working with Micro sculpt decals . They are easy to work with and are thin , but stretch well to confrom over the surface . Follow his on line instructions and you can't wrong . Be careful on how much microsol you use though . It can make a real mess out of them . I used them on my Fokker D.VII featured here and in Micro sculpts gallery . Any questions or trouble you are having just ask  |
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| Carl Althaus
CaptainA | Location: Indiana, United States
Member Since: May 14, 2007
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| Posted: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 09:20 AM UTC |
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Let us know how it works out for you.  |
Now, to quote Monty Python "Albatros"
"Treat 'em Rough",
Carl
Current Build---A Jug, currently stalled, a B-17 for the Mighty Eighth Campaign, and the Wingnut group Build which has started. I have also been delving into the darkside (Muscle Cars | | |
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 | James Fahey
Jamo_kiwi | Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Member Since: November 04, 2008
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| Posted: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 10:31 PM UTC |
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I'm waiting for Microsculpt to bring them out in 1/32. There is room for the WNW lozenge to be improved on. |
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| Mike Sawicki
SuccorPhysh | Location: Texas, United States
Member Since: June 24, 2007
Posts: 81 entire network,
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| Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:06 PM UTC |
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The Microsculpt decals arrived the other day. I received a nice note from the owners apologizing for the delay in sending them, but have been so busy with work that I had no free time to notice.
I have a question for the group, how do you make rigging tape? I am loathe to use the samples I received with the Roden set, anticipating that they will be just as much trouble as the rest of the sheet was. Any suggestions? |
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| terri werner
thegirl | Location: Alberta, Canada
Member Since: January 19, 2008
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| Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:32 PM UTC |
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Tom is top notch ! Glad to here your decals arrived You have a few options that you can choose .If you rather buy them . techmod has them in 48 scale upper and lower . Eduard has them as well . I know Great Models has the Eduards ones , but not sure on the Techmod . Painting your own is another on clear tape or Tamiya tape . Spraying decal paper the colours need . Testors has a decal system . decal paper in white or clear and then a spray ( decal film ) which is applyed after the paint is dried . You can also spray Rodens decals with a gloss coat of lacquer . Let this dry for an hour before using . |
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| Stephen T. Lawson
JackFlash
Associate Editor
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Member Since: January 25, 2004
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| Posted: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 03:08 PM UTC |
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Quoted Text
". . .I have a question for the group, how do you make rigging tape? I am loathe to use the samples I received with the Roden set, anticipating that they will be just as much trouble as the rest of the sheet was. Any suggestions?"
Do you mean rib tapes? |
Are you frequently seen with blood shot eyes from staying up til 3am to get the right colour scheme on your latest WWI model?
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| Mike Sawicki
SuccorPhysh | Location: Texas, United States
Member Since: June 24, 2007
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| Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 04:05 AM UTC |
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Yes, I meant rib tapes. |
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| Stephen T. Lawson
JackFlash
Associate Editor
| Location: Colorado, United States
Member Since: January 25, 2004
Posts: 5,994 entire network,
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| Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 04:24 PM UTC |
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The best method so far (and that may change by next year) is to use a steel ruler and a sharp Xacto #11 chucked into a tool handle. With the Microsculpt lozenge gloss coat them first and let dry thoroughly.Slice the Microsculpt lozenge in very narrow strips according to scale. Each slice or strip should require several light cut strokes with the razor knife as not to curl them. Use Microsculpt strips / tapes with Microsculpt lozenge. Use very warm water.
With the Roden lozenge use them as mentioned above. But use Roden strips / tapes with Roden lozenge. If you need more Roden lozenge I have some sheets i can spare. |
Are you frequently seen with blood shot eyes from staying up til 3am to get the right colour scheme on your latest WWI model?
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| James Fahey
Jamo_kiwi | Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Member Since: November 04, 2008
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| Posted: Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 10:09 PM UTC |
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Quoted Text
The best method so far (and that may change by next year) is to use a steel ruler and a sharp Xacto #11 chucked into a tool handle. . .Each slice or strip should require several light cut strokes with the razor knife as not to curl them.
Another tool option is a rotary cutter. It has a (very) sharp-edged wheel mounted in a handle. Advantage is that the blade is pressed down on the decal not dragged along it, so curling is not a problem. My wife is a quilter and she uses one for cutting fabric. Its one of the few times when I get to use one of *her* tools Happy Modelling James |
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| Karl
BOC262 | Location: New Jersey, United States
Member Since: April 15, 2007
Posts: 30 entire network,
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| Posted: Friday, October 30, 2009 - 09:12 AM UTC |
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Quoted Text
... gloss coat them first and let dry thoroughly.Slice the Microsculpt lozenge in very narrow strips according to scale...
What is the purpose of gloss coating them first? |
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