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Ships by Class/Type: Sailing Vessels
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Hosted by Todd Michalak
Sovereign of the Seas - Build
DARIVS
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Minnesota, United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 11, 2018 - 04:28 PM UTC
Hello Todd,

Your build log has inspired me to choose this model to build for myself. Are you going to continues this build? I eagerly await your next update!

Many thanks!
TimReynaga
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Saturday, October 28, 2017 - 09:13 PM UTC
Hi Todd,

Your Sovereign of the Seas is looking fantastic! That's some real modeling with the hull, especially for those like me who only work from plastic kits. I even wimped out on the plastic Lindberg Sovereign of the Seas a while back because it looked too complicated... after following your work on this one, now I just feel lazy!

damoore46
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Posted: Wednesday, October 25, 2017 - 07:25 AM UTC
Hi, Todd. Just checking in on this thread. I was following and noticed that there had not been a post in awhile. Hope everything is OK.

David
TRM5150
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Posted: Monday, June 13, 2016 - 04:00 PM UTC
Thanks Jan! While there was a little fiddly stuff after the cut, in trying to keep the edge on the grates together, things did kind of just fall together. I clear coated to help stick things a little better and not make a mess with the glue. After they were slid in place, I did apply thinned down white glue with a brush and that was that!

:)
JJ1973
#345
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Posted: Monday, June 13, 2016 - 09:19 AM UTC
Wow Todd, this is amazing work! The gratings look superb - and you make sound so simple and easy...but I don't buy that- there's definitely some really skilled work involved! Nice job!!

Cheers,
Jan
TRM5150
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Posted: Monday, June 13, 2016 - 06:23 AM UTC
Finally, I had the chance to get back to the wooden ship on the bench! I did manage do do a few other things on the ship such as working on the gallery sections...chopped up a bunch of wood for gun ports (which I am not looking forward to installing) and finally the bow.

The bow section was kind of fun. I needed to make the grating which is fitted to the beak of the ship...



The provided template showed the basic layout to the grates. Once built, it was only a matter of marking them form the bottom side and a little cutting and sanding.





Of course I popped some clear onto these parts to offset the coloring from the stained deck around it.



The final result...



I am working on the forward bulkhead exterior now. More sanding and a coat of black on it and the beak and the grating will be installed! There is a whole bunch of white metal parts to clean up and paint for the stern...fun fun fun! Thanks for stopping by!
TRM5150
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Posted: Wednesday, March 23, 2016 - 06:03 AM UTC
Thanks Larry!! No worries...I have been missing my updates! I appreciate you swinging by!
LCB248
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Posted: Wednesday, March 23, 2016 - 05:34 AM UTC
Have been missing your updates. Looking good!

LCB

TRM5150
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Posted: Wednesday, March 23, 2016 - 12:04 AM UTC
Thank you Mike...much appreciated!
mgrummitt
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Posted: Tuesday, March 22, 2016 - 09:17 PM UTC
Great job so far!! Looking great!
TRM5150
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Posted: Monday, March 21, 2016 - 03:51 AM UTC
Thanks Jan! Having fun when I can get to the bench lately!! Yes, it does lay mostly flat. Getting the framing straight and faring the first layer is more than 3/4's of the job. The thin planks go down quickly.

Thank you very much Grant!!
GrantGoodale
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Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 04:45 AM UTC
Very nice work on the planking
JJ1973
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Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2016 - 12:05 AM UTC
Wow Todd,

that's absolutely impressive!! Fantastic work on this truly big model! All your woodwork looks really perfectly flush - lots of sanding required or can it actually be build that smooth?? I am deeply impressed!!

Great update, good to see this wonderful project going on!!

Cheers,
Jan
TRM5150
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Posted: Saturday, March 19, 2016 - 02:09 AM UTC
Finally! Well it's been about 2 months since I updated the thread. I had to bang out a few smaller projects along the way while continuing the secondary planking of the hull.But now, the planking is done!





Since the planking was completed, it was time to follow the instruction and mask off the color banding of the hull. The first step was the upper section needed to be painted black.





Just below the black band, there will be a section of natural wood, followed by red, or in my case a deeper red oxide color (I just like it), followed by the lower hull being white.



I think the bottle of water gives a good sense of the 1/84 scaling of this ship!



The oxide boot striping has been painted on both sides. Time to add the black whale boards next which will straddle the boot stripe and then onto adding the galleries to the stern!

Thanks for stopping in!!
Fordboy
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Posted: Monday, January 18, 2016 - 01:28 AM UTC
Ahoy Todd

Looking real good.

Cheers


Sean
JJ1973
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Posted: Sunday, January 17, 2016 - 10:35 AM UTC
Todd,

glad and somewhat relieved to see that all the gun ports are cut out without any structural damage to the ship!!

Looks really good, and with the second layer of planking and frames to the gun ports to be installed it all makes sense - looks really good!!

Looking forward to see your work on the stern and the outer planking completed!

Cheers,
Jan
TRM5150
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Posted: Sunday, January 17, 2016 - 01:40 AM UTC
Back at it!!!

Well, all of the gun ports were finally cut out. Not too bad...a little drilling around the perimeter of each on and then attacked the openings with my dremel.



As you can see the outer planking as begun. This process is half as tedious as the first layer. I am actually using contact adhesive for this part. Apply the glue to both halves, allow to dry and bang....stuck!



I am using the same template I made to create the initial gun ports to mark out and cut the top layer. This is of course a cleaner cut that will get filed back to allow 12mm x 13mm gun port framing to be installed a few pages ahead in the instructions.



That's it for the moment. I am just about ready to construct yet another piece for the stern. This will define how the outer planking will terminate in the aft section of the ship....then....a little painting will commence!
TRM5150
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Posted: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 - 09:29 AM UTC
Thank you very much Dave! Maybe if you ever decide to dabble, there are a number of smaller kits that are just awesome! I built the Sultana many moons ago. at 1/64 it comes in around 20 inches long or so. The hull is solid too. Big fun!

LOL..true Larry! As long as the planks are glued well continuously along he joint, four holes in the corners and a micro saw would do the trick quickly too I assume.

Sorry I didn't get to getting any pics of the port holes cut out tonight...ended up in video editing hello and trying to get a printer to work for my daughter!
LCB248
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Posted: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 - 07:52 AM UTC

Quoted Text

On the gun ports, a large hole would work, but there is always the chance of binding with the multiple planks spanning the opening.



THAT would just NOT be good.

rolltide31
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Posted: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 - 07:22 AM UTC
Todd,

Incredible work. I don't have the nerve to try one of those big wooden ships so I'll live precariously through watching you.

Can't wait to see the gun ports.

Dave
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Posted: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 - 01:59 AM UTC
Thanks for coming along for the ride Larry! I have the Mo in the satsh...somewhere! Like you said with the wood...one of these days I will get around to grabbing an upgrade set or eight and have my way with her!

As for the T-pins...they will work for the outer planking as it is thin sapele and basswood, but the inner planking is bamboo. The nails were tough to stick even with a push nailer. I had to drill a few also.

On the gun ports, a large hole would work, but there is always the chance of binding with the multiple planks spanning the opening. It took about 15 minutes to run 4 to 5 1/16" holes on each side of the ports for the entire ship. I used a fine tip milling bit in my cordless dremel to knock out the meat in between the holes. Start to finish, maybe a 1/2 hour to 45 min. Not too bad.
LCB248
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Posted: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 - 01:24 AM UTC
I drilled the corners and then just used the dremel for most of the work.

Would drilling a "big" hole and cleaning with the corners with an exacto blade or saw blade be any faster? Or would it be 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other?


Larry
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Posted: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 - 01:22 AM UTC
Todd,
Just subscribed; I'm very interested in building a wooden ship "someday". My next big project is a 1/350 Missouri in plastic with PE updates. So...the wood will have to wait a while.

Question: would T-pins work in place of the nails? I used them once when building a wooden airplane. Seems they would be easier to handle than nails.

X8-)
Larry
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Posted: Sunday, January 10, 2016 - 04:28 PM UTC
Thank Jan! The last time I had to work with gun ports, they were framed out prior to the planking and cut to fit. A little different process here, but not so bad. I did get them all cut out and cleaned back. I drilled the corners and then just used the dremel for most of the work. There were a few planks that comes between two ports and did not have a frame which loosened or popped off. I finished cutting and then installed them after. In hind sight, I would have glued the joints of all of the planks, gun ports up, and not just the frames. I will snap some pics tonight and show where things are at!
JJ1973
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Posted: Sunday, January 10, 2016 - 10:29 AM UTC
Wow, that's quite some progress here Todd.

I don't really like the idea of cutting all those gun ports - somehow that seems dangerous... I hope you are not breaking anything in the process...

Great work - I am not really sure if I were up to something like this! But you're doing a fine job and watching is certainly fun!!

Cheers,
Jan