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Ships by Class/Type: Destroyers
This forum covers all types of destroyers from all eras.
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HMS MALCOLM SCOTT CLASS FLOTILLA LEADER 1/
Quincannon
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Monday, August 13, 2018 - 04:21 PM UTC
Outstanding. Can't wait to see the finished work.

I was satisfied with my experiment. So much so I may have to find a deck and superstructure to go with it. I used the camouflage depicted on the top and bottom of the Tamiya Cushing box in 1/700.

What I will say is that I do like your bottom up approach over what I had previously done which was top down.
RedDuster
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, August 13, 2018 - 08:13 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I think I may be fortunate in that the three colors I am using, are Haze Gray, Ocean Gray, and Black, and I plan to do the boot top, at the same time I apply the black portion of the camouflage.

What color by brand and name is the green? I presume you air brushed the green on?




Hi Chuck,

Good plan, will save on the masking.

The Green is Lifecolor Western Approaches Green. It came out of a jar that I have had for a while. It was applied with a hairy stick. I have found this paint does not airbrush well if it has been opened for a while.


I did finish the camo job on Sunday, will update later in the week, when I have a bit of time.

Cheers

Si

Quincannon
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Posted: Sunday, August 12, 2018 - 03:17 AM UTC
I think I may be fortunate in that the three colors I am using, are Haze Gray, Ocean Gray, and Black, and I plan to do the boot top, at the same time I apply the black portion of the camouflage.

What color by brand and name is the green? I presume you air brushed the green on?
RedDuster
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Posted: Saturday, August 11, 2018 - 07:47 AM UTC
On with the painting.

The shape on bow is quite "interesting", all the tape in place, but not trimmed.



Trimmed and ready for paint.



Green on, there is on patch that need to be repainted white, that will be done after the boot topping.



More soon.

Si
RedDuster
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Posted: Friday, August 10, 2018 - 07:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text

This Fletcher will not be completed Simon. It is a hull left over from blending a Tamiya round bridge, with a Trumpeter hull, (waterlined), and portions of the superstructure, into a mid war round bridge, which I am doing, with a bit of struggle as USS Nicholas, named for the first naval officer, and first Marine commissioned by the Continental Congress.

When you have some time I would be happy to tell you about Nicholas recruiting our first Marines at Tun's Tavern in Philadelphia, and the Corps' birthday 10 November 1775. That of course if you are in the mood to revisit that little misunderstanding we had with the King and Mother Country.

So I am just using the hull to see if I can mirror your technique.




Hi Chuck,

Good luck with the hull anyway mate. Experimenting is never a bad idea.


That is one period and campaign, outside the Royal Navy's moderately poor performance, I know very little about. Always willing to learn, even about the ones we lost.

Cheers

Si
Quincannon
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Posted: Thursday, August 09, 2018 - 12:52 PM UTC
This Fletcher will not be completed Simon. It is a hull left over from blending a Tamiya round bridge, with a Trumpeter hull, (waterlined), and portions of the superstructure, into a mid war round bridge, which I am doing, with a bit of struggle as USS Nicholas, named for the first naval officer, and first Marine commissioned by the Continental Congress.

When you have some time I would be happy to tell you about Nicholas recruiting our first Marines at Tun's Tavern in Philadelphia, and the Corps' birthday 10 November 1775. That of course if you are in the mood to revisit that little misunderstanding we had with the King and Mother Country.

So I am just using the hull to see if I can mirror your technique.
RedDuster
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Posted: Thursday, August 09, 2018 - 08:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Will be looking in to see that camo when it's finished




Thanks for looking in this time mate.

WA green should be laid down on Saturday. The boot topping on Sunday, lifecolor paints can take a little time to cure to take masking tape for the boot toping.

Cheers

Si
RedDuster
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Posted: Thursday, August 09, 2018 - 08:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Taking copious notes. Thanks Simon. I am inspired. Actually I am following your methods on a Tamiya Fletcher as you post them. Different colors of course but same methodology.



You are very welcome Chuck,

Good luck with the Fletcher, wouldn't mind seeing how it turns out.

Cheers

Si
RussellE
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Posted: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 - 09:34 AM UTC
Will be looking in to see that camo when it's finished
Quincannon
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Posted: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 - 08:53 AM UTC
Taking copious notes. Thanks Simon. I am inspired. Actually I am following your methods on a Tamiya Fletcher as you post them. Different colors of course but same methodology.
RedDuster
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Posted: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 - 08:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Simon: I am going to assume that the white paint is a general purpose paint, one not necessarily used for modeling. I am not at all familiar with the paint brands available in the UK. Set me straight here.

The Tamiya XF18 is one that I have not had much success with brushing. I think it may be me though in not having thinned it enough. The paint seems to drag over the surface when I brush it.




Hi Chuck,

The white comes from Games workshop, they are a fantasy / Sci Fi wargaming store, it is designed to cover plastic / resin / white metal & etch. I like their paints. The rattlecans are very forgiving, and their ordinary paints are brush friendly, cover well and their metallics' are very good.

Little trick brushing Tamiya, I lay down a couple of slightly thinned coats to get colour density, then when dry but not cured, put a water thinned almost wash coat, that seems to get rid of the brush marks and level everything odd.

Cheers

Si
Quincannon
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Posted: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 - 04:26 AM UTC
Simon: I am going to assume that the white paint is a general purpose paint, one not necessarily used for modeling. I am not at all familiar with the paint brands available in the UK. Set me straight here.

The Tamiya XF18 is one that I have not had much success with brushing. I think it may be me though in not having thinned it enough. The paint seems to drag over the surface when I brush it.
RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, August 06, 2018 - 08:59 AM UTC
TLAR Camouflage.

Lower hull masked at the bottom of the boot topping.



Upper hull sprayed Citadel Corax white, rattlecan, it is an off white base coat, covers well, and makes a decent WA White.



B5 areas masked.




And painted in, on small ships, I go old school and use the hairy stick, Lazyness - avoids airbrush cleaning. Tamiya XF18 Medium Blue is used for B5.



And masking off.

WA green next.

Cheers.

Si




RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, August 06, 2018 - 06:28 AM UTC
Thanks Guys,

Have enjoyed reading your latest comments, and appreciate your support.

I glad the colour police don't seem to patrol this forum.

Mark, I understand the orange thing, the house my mother & father and I moved into back in the early seventies had a lot of orange paintwork in the interior décor. Spent may weekends trying to paint it out in something more soothing.

Cheers Guys
Quincannon
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Posted: Monday, August 06, 2018 - 04:11 AM UTC
We have one painted like that near where I live as well.

I recently built "O'Bannon as she appeared a the end of the war, a round bridge Fletcher with the mid war modifications that consist of 5 twin 40mm mounts, and the addition of directors for those mounts. I used as a guide a picture of O'Bannon taken in 1949 when she was temporarily brought out of mothballs for conversion to a DDE. O'Bannon had been painted in overall Haze Gray during the post war decommissioning process, and by 1949 she appeared in a very clear photo to be overall dirty white. The gray had faded and weathered that much.

I then saw a picture of O'Bannon after conversion, again placed in mothballs, all spiffy with a new coat of Haze Gray and large shaded bow numbers, tied up with a group of other destroyers that had remained unconverted and still in mothballs. The difference was dramatic.

The conclusion that each of us must draw then is that if we wish to build and present a model as a smaller version of a builders model, like those produced by Gibbs and Cox, then the exact paint specification should be used. If we intend on the other hand to depict a ship in service practically any shade close to those specific standards will do. I believe that is what Simon is saying, and I believe him to be 100 percent correct, paint police notwithstanding.
d6mst0
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Posted: Monday, August 06, 2018 - 01:02 AM UTC
Chuck,

Those colors don't seem bad to me. When I lived in Denver my neighbor painted their house the colors of the Denver Broncos, including the roof. Love the team, hated the orange color. Then they painted their car and mini-van in the same colors. God how I hate Bronco orange.

Mark
Quincannon
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Posted: Monday, August 06, 2018 - 12:05 AM UTC
When we last painted the house, my wife chose Candy Apple Aztec,Summer Fall Winter Sporing White. That;s not the real name of course, but I am sure you get the idea. Living in the high desert as we do, within a week, it looked remarkably like, of all things, WHITE.

The paint police have not made it to my street yet, but now with the sidewalks being fixed, I expect them any day now, to tell me that I am not up to their high standards of what White should look like
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, August 05, 2018 - 01:18 PM UTC
I agree on the paints (and I apply this to pretty much every model I make):

If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck... Then it's probably a duck.

Why stress over 100% accuracy? This is, supposed to be fun, afterall
warshipbuild
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Posted: Sunday, August 05, 2018 - 05:22 AM UTC
Have to agree with the sentiment on paints Si.

It never seems to end. Last year's shade was 100% authentic from a chip or swatch. This year it isn't, but hey, we'll be very happy to sell you the correct one. It smacks of marketeering to me.

Given that weathering and scale effect pretty much nulify any 'percieved accuracy ' of the original colour, I don't know why they bother - Oh yes I do! Money!
How many more sets of emporer's new cloths do we have to buy before we get it 'right'?
RedDuster
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Posted: Saturday, August 04, 2018 - 09:41 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I fully agree on the exact shade Simon. The only day it really is correct is the day that the hull is painted on the prototype.

I hope you will find the time to document the full hull painting procedure with photos. Every day you don't learn something new or a different way to go about something is a day, in my opinion, that is wasted.



Hi Chuck,

I think, certainly with wartime RN vessels there is a little too much obsession on that is perceived to be the correct shade (Ducks behind the armoured bulwark as the volley criticism comes in). Two points I will make, firstly paint weathers I sailed on Shell Tankers in the late 70s / early 80sand they had the iconic red funnel with the yellow shell on it. Fresh out of dock it was a rich red and bright yellow. didn't take that long for the colour to start weathering, by the time of the next docking it weathered to a deep pink and cream. Secondly a lot of Camo colours were mixed either in the yard or on board the ship, they used a system called by Petty officers as "TLAR" - That looks about right. They all started off slightly different, and then weathered differently depending on the mixture and the conditions the ship has served in.

Will do. Intending to get the masking on and spray the white today, it is nice and warm, so might even get a second colour on.


Cheers

Si
Cosimodo
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Posted: Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 10:13 PM UTC
Just caught up on this one. Looks like another one of your excellent small builds in resin. Always interested to see how these play out and it looks like its been a bit of challenge so far but you seem to have addressed the issues very well.

cheers
Michael
Quincannon
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Posted: Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 03:33 PM UTC
I fully agree on the exact shade Simon. The only day it really is correct is the day that the hull is painted on the prototype.

I hope you will find the time to document the full hull painting procedure with photos. Every day you don't learn something new or a different way to go about something is a day, in my opinion, that is wasted.
RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 08:00 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Simon: Are you using the Halfords red primer as your final coat for the lower portion of the hull? I have used a similar red primer by Dupli-Color, on a couple of my 1/350 DD's.

Assuming you do,I will be anxiously awaiting to see how you manage the camouflage and boot topping on this one.

Nothing better in the model world than a well done destroyer.




Hi Chuck,

Yes I will, it is a fairly good match, and with wartime shortages in British shipyards, whatever anti fouling paint they had was used, so the actual shade is anybody's guess.

Plan will be mask off along the lower edge of the boot topping, spray WA white, add the WA green & the B5, then mask the top edge of the boot topping and paint in.

Thanks for looking in.

Cheers

Si




RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 06:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

great job on the filler and sanding, Si



Thanks Russ,

It was "fun" I have yet to get the hang of removing poor stubs from hulls without doing some damage.

Cheers

Si
Quincannon
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 05:00 AM UTC
Simon: Are you using the Halfords red primer as your final coat for the lower portion of the hull? I have used a similar red primer by Dupli-Color, on a couple of my 1/350 DD's.

Assuming you do,I will be anxiously awaiting to see how you manage the camouflage and boot topping on this one.

Nothing better in the model world than a well done destroyer.