Another inciteful letter from the pen of Frank B Lesher an Electrician on board the USS Virginia
"Colombo, Ceylon
December 18th, 1908
Dear Papa,
Was ashore on Wednesday and went up to Kandy, tomorrow I expect to take in the sights of Colombo. We landed at seven thirty o’clock, the train of ten English rail-road coaches was waiting for us at the dock, everybody climbed aboard and we started on the most interesting ride I have ever made.
Passing through the suburbs of the city we were soon in the forests of Ceylon, with tropical verdure and plants of all descriptions, here and there could be seen the huts of the natives made of mud walls and a palm leaf thatching for a roof.
The natives wear very few clothes and may children run naked until they are four and five years old. We passed through miles of coconut, mango, and banana trees, while acres of tea and rice fields could we be seen on every side. Before we reached the mountains we could see the rice being raised in level fields, but when we reached the mountain side we found them still raising crop, but instead of the level fields the little plots rose in terrace after terrace to the height of several hundred feet, the water from the top gradually working down through the different levels until it reached the bottom.
Passed by one of the Lipton tea gardens and I could see the natives picking the leaves which we consume in the USA and all parts of the world.
The highest elevation reached was seventeen hundred feet from thence we descended down to the town of Kandy which has an altitude of about sixteen hundred feet, and is 64 miles from Colombo.
Kandy I should have said in my former letter, was formerly the capitol of the native rulers but now the seat of government is at Colombo. It is situated in an amphitheatre of beautifully wooded hills, and contains the residence of the gov-general of the Island, the former Kings palace, and the Temple-of-the-Sacred- God Buddha.
I was taken though the temple and saw the closed doors behind which the tooth is kept. So they say???
I have often heard it said that India was a land of beggars, but I never fully realized the fact until I landed in Kandy, everywhere you went beggars and cripples of all descriptions surrounded you and almost grabbed the money out of your hands. There were men with their arms and legs cut off, which had been healed up with the aid of the native doctors, leaving the most horrible sights imaginable, blind men who could see at times, and at other times could not. Women with little children laying on board platforms, twisted up onto the awfullest shapes that one could think of, and lots of Lepers.
They have several fine hotels, in which the Europeans could be seen taking life easy and watching the way in which the American sailor enjoys life when ashore.
The Singhalese always address you as “master”, having always in mind that it was the English who conquered them and made them their subjects. Of the Dutch and Portuguese, who had possession of the Island before the British little remains to show that they once possessed the land.
Coming back in the evening we could see the huts of the natives though the palm trees, and see them huddled around the fire built in the center of the room. It takes about four hours to go up to Kandy and about three and a half to come back.
We arrived back on the ship about eight pm, tired but happy. Will describe what I was in Colombo while I am out at sea, and mail from the next port.
The money standard is the rupee, 33 cents American.
Love to Mother,
Affectionately, Frank"
The Officers and crew were again treated to the receptions and amusements of all kinds. Although Admiral Sperry requested that there by no celebration, a brilliant week was arranged. A concert under the direction of Sir Henry Edward McCallum, Governor of Ceylon, and Lady McCallum, was given on December 14th, and on December 15th Sir Allan Perry, chief medical officer of the island, gave a dinner to the medical officers of the fleet. Numerous dances, dinners, "at homes" and a program of sports were also arranged. Entertainment was planned on each ship for the crew and for visitors from Colombo
A picture on board the train to Kandy.
"The enlisted men were granted shore leave and took a train each day for Kandy, the capital of Ceylon, as guests of the Government, all the good conduct men being thus entertained. Kandy is situated on the shores of an artificial lake in the interior of the island, and the men expressed great admiration of the magnificent scenery and the ancient palace of the King of Ceylon. " From the Man-O'Warsman Magazine, February, 1909
Onboard the ships venders and snake charmers showed up each day to earn the coins of sailors while swimmers in the waters were willing to dive for coins tossed from the ship. The decks were a showplace for jewellery vendors and cobras fighting mongooses.
The snake charmers would start by showing the snake and offering to introduce the mongoose for a fight to the death if enough money was collected from the sailors.
Some pictures of the snake charmers aboard the USS Kansas.
The Fleet said farewell to Ceylon on the 20th of December and left for the Suez Canal and the Mediterranean.
Cheers
Sean
