Ahoy mates!
Take a closer look at NIKO Models next spring release in full resin, 1/700 scale, the USS Iowa, 1898! 
Link to Item
If you have comments or questions please post them here.
Thanks!
~Gunny
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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
NEWS
NIKO Models NEW USS Iowa,1898
Gunny

Joined: July 13, 2004
KitMaker: 6,705 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4,704 posts

Posted: Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 11:46 PM UTC

goldenpony

Joined: July 03, 2007
KitMaker: 3,529 posts
Model Shipwrights: 2,419 posts

Posted: Monday, April 14, 2008 - 12:15 AM UTC
Looks like a nice kit. No if they just move east a little and make a 1/700 Illinois I'll be a real happy camper.
  
 
 
 
bobcicconi

Joined: April 25, 2007
KitMaker: 157 posts
Model Shipwrights: 156 posts

Posted: Monday, April 14, 2008 - 10:32 AM UTC
I know someone that needs to get that kit!  
 
 
 Posted: Monday, April 14, 2008 - 11:49 AM UTC
Yes Bob, this has your and Jim Baumann's brand 
I like Niko's models quality and offer, and this one should be a good seller.
Thanks for sharing Mark
Rui

I like Niko's models quality and offer, and this one should be a good seller.
Thanks for sharing Mark
Rui
Posted: Monday, April 14, 2008 - 12:01 PM UTC
hello Mark,
i have never built a resin model.so hard hard is it to build one.i am a little worried about the parts being fragile and will brake very easy.i hope that you can help me to understand how to buils a resin kit. 
 
cheers,
Bruce 
 
i have never built a resin model.so hard hard is it to build one.i am a little worried about the parts being fragile and will brake very easy.i hope that you can help me to understand how to buils a resin kit.
 
 cheers,
Bruce
 
 Posted: Monday, April 14, 2008 - 12:22 PM UTC
hi Bruce
Working with resin models is very similar to working with plastic models except:
- Wash parts with a dish washer to remove the releasing agent grease;
- Removing parts from resin blocks should be done with a fresh cutter, small saw or using sanding paper on a flat surface (with this being wet, because resin dust - as all other dust - is armful to your lungs); You can use a x-acto blade and/or fine coarse sandpaper to remove seams;
- Attaching parts is always done with CA glue (cyanoacrilate glue, aka Super Glue);
- If any big parts are warped they can get into shape again, after a 5' boil on water and then placed on a flat surface with a heavy weight on top until the resin cools down, to make the part keep flat. TAKE CARE WHEN DEALING WITH HOT BOILING WATER.
- Prime, paint and do your thing as with any other (plastic) model.
Another particular is the eventual occurrence of air bubbles. These can be covered (and should be, because they are very noticeable if you don't) with super glue or for a newbie in resin models like you, I advise putty (or if you wish White Milliput - since it's water solvent and you can work it well to cover these eventual air bubbles).
Hope this helps, even if I am not Mark - but if you take a look at my Artist Profile, 90% of the models depicted there are resin, so I can say I have some experience with them
Cheers,
Rui
Working with resin models is very similar to working with plastic models except:
- Wash parts with a dish washer to remove the releasing agent grease;
- Removing parts from resin blocks should be done with a fresh cutter, small saw or using sanding paper on a flat surface (with this being wet, because resin dust - as all other dust - is armful to your lungs); You can use a x-acto blade and/or fine coarse sandpaper to remove seams;
- Attaching parts is always done with CA glue (cyanoacrilate glue, aka Super Glue);
- If any big parts are warped they can get into shape again, after a 5' boil on water and then placed on a flat surface with a heavy weight on top until the resin cools down, to make the part keep flat. TAKE CARE WHEN DEALING WITH HOT BOILING WATER.
- Prime, paint and do your thing as with any other (plastic) model.
Another particular is the eventual occurrence of air bubbles. These can be covered (and should be, because they are very noticeable if you don't) with super glue or for a newbie in resin models like you, I advise putty (or if you wish White Milliput - since it's water solvent and you can work it well to cover these eventual air bubbles).
Hope this helps, even if I am not Mark - but if you take a look at my Artist Profile, 90% of the models depicted there are resin, so I can say I have some experience with them

Cheers,
Rui

Gunny

Joined: July 13, 2004
KitMaker: 6,705 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4,704 posts

Posted: Monday, April 14, 2008 - 12:54 PM UTC
Ahoy, Bruce,
In addition to Skips great tips, I would like to add that there is a fantastic book available from FineScale Modeler/Kalmbach Books, entitled "Basics of Ship Modeling", by Mike Ashey...a very inexpensive book for the quality of information available, there is a complete chapter of resin ship building inside, from start to finish, with TONS of photographs...you can pick the book up at Amazon for around twelve bucks, and it's worth three times that much, IMHO...
  
 
In addition to Skips great tips, I would like to add that there is a fantastic book available from FineScale Modeler/Kalmbach Books, entitled "Basics of Ship Modeling", by Mike Ashey...a very inexpensive book for the quality of information available, there is a complete chapter of resin ship building inside, from start to finish, with TONS of photographs...you can pick the book up at Amazon for around twelve bucks, and it's worth three times that much, IMHO...
 
 This post was removed.
Posted: Monday, April 14, 2008 - 01:06 PM UTC
hello Rui,
thanks for the info.the reason i asked Mark is because that he posted the question.i will take any help from any one gladly,very gladly.
thanks again for the info.
hello Mark,
that book is on my list for buying.so far i have been winging it,building ship models.
cheers,
Bruce 
 
thanks for the info.the reason i asked Mark is because that he posted the question.i will take any help from any one gladly,very gladly.
thanks again for the info.
hello Mark,
that book is on my list for buying.so far i have been winging it,building ship models.
cheers,
Bruce
 
 
goldenpony

Joined: July 03, 2007
KitMaker: 3,529 posts
Model Shipwrights: 2,419 posts

Posted: Monday, April 14, 2008 - 01:07 PM UTC
Bruce,
What those guys said.
I am doing my first resin kit, the Admiralty Model Works kit of the Schleswig Holstein D182. It has been a very nice kit for a first resin kit. I am currently getting resin ships almost on the same rate I am plastic.
Pick one up and try it, you'll enjoy it.
 
  
 
What those guys said.
I am doing my first resin kit, the Admiralty Model Works kit of the Schleswig Holstein D182. It has been a very nice kit for a first resin kit. I am currently getting resin ships almost on the same rate I am plastic.
Pick one up and try it, you'll enjoy it.
 
 JMartine

Joined: October 18, 2007
KitMaker: 1,698 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,514 posts

Posted: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 - 11:51 AM UTC
I have Ashley's books from Kalmbach, required reading, helpful at all levels of expertise.
One more thing to keep in mind about resin, is that the resin dust can be quite toxic, so respirator/ventilation is a must, specially when sanding.
Not that I have ever done resin, but have read about it
One more thing to keep in mind about resin, is that the resin dust can be quite toxic, so respirator/ventilation is a must, specially when sanding.
Not that I have ever done resin, but have read about it

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