Group

I'm posting some photos of my PT109 build. As I'm waithing for a 1:72 37mm anti-tank gun to come in, I have started to clean the kit up. I would like to remove the deck hatches that have been molded to to plastic deck, and prop them open. I would like to keep the ones in place or if I have to, build them from scratch.

What would be a good way to remove them without to much damage to the hatche's and the deck?

I will keep you all posted with the build.

Thank you

Sam

Hey Sam,

I know that Lion Roar and a couple of other pe companies make a photo etched saw. This should be thin enough to remove the hatch cover.

Kenny

Hi Samuel,
welcome aboard! We have a couple of PT boat experts in the forums, lots of good info in here....

I removed couple molded windows on my own humble PT 109 build (mostly OOB). I scored around the cut line with a new Xcto blade, using a metal ruler as a guide. If I wanted to keep the "cover" I would have continued until broken thru, then you can use one of those "flexi-saws", or lay off the coffee and do it by hand. I did not need the cover, so I just used my Dremel

Look forward to your WIP pics!
Cheers,
James

Thank you guys for the great info. I will keep you all posted on the progress.

Sam

Hi Sam,

After putting in my time at the salt mines, I dug about in the stash and found my old Revell Germany kit of the PT 117 as promised. It is basically the same kit as the PT 109, just a different bit of boxart.



They changed the artwork and offer a different set of decals, I have heard that JFK didn't make quite as a big a splash over there so selling his PT Boat over there was not quite the draw that it was here stateside.



Even so, when you open the box and pull the parts out, you still have the same base assembly parts with the PT-109 emblazoned across the side pieces. They give you decals to change the name but don't bother to mention that you have to sand the old "PT 109" molded on there off first.



Getting down to business, as to opening up the hatches, I suppose that you are talking about the two on the bow deck and the one that is behind the rear mounted 20 MM Oerlikon.





Normally in operation, these were not open, PT's were somewhat a "wet" ride out on the ocean and as such, these were battened down quite securely. If you are intending to show the boat as it would be in harbor and really want to open them up, you need to do a bit of research to find out what was under them at least in the immediate area to add that to your build or plan on something to that effect. A partial crew figure hanging out or something of that nature would probably work as well.

If you are insistent on cutting them open, your best bet would be to do so from underneath. All three hatches from the underside are embossed giving you a nice surface to work from.





While some modelers would drill out a series of holes in the edges of the depressions using a pin vise and small drill bit, given the depressed pockets you have to work with I would opt for the use of my favorite modeling tool, the #11 Xacto Hobby Knife. You can turn the blade upside down and draw it back from the corners to the center along the side edge to cut with it rather than trying to cut with the sharp side. You have to do it repeatedly and each time you draw it back, you will be deepening the line until it finally comes through. You may have a little section in the center of the sides that isn't quite through all the way and that is when turning the blade with the sharp side down will cut that last little bit right through easily.



Once you have the rough work done, you will still have a good portion of the edges of the original hatches left on the top. Go to work with a small file and clean those edges up working from the underside until they are scale thin, it was after all a sheet metal hatch opening that had a rounded edge and as such it would be relatively thin in 1/72 scale. You can build a new set of hatch covers using some sheet styrene cut to size and detailed with a bit of styrene stick to represent the gaskets and sides as well as the locking latch and hinges of your new hatches.

Getting into detailing the forward deck area so you can mount that 37 MM AT gun you are waiting on, the small upright shapes where the life raft is supposed to mount will have to go. These would interfere with the mounting of your AT gun. Xacto makes a chisel type blade that will shave those right off smoothly, just be careful or you may make a gouge or two, or even slice some Sam while you are at it. While you are at it, you can also sand off some of that board detail that Revell put up there. On the real boats it just isn't that apparent. When I worked over my last ones, I just about sanded it smooth. I also removed the brow trim pieces that they had molded on and replaced it with cut pieces of styrene stock and bent more thicker stock shape to form the brows so that they actually had a space underneath that you could see through.



As you can tell, there is a lot of work to bring the older kits up to something that is what close to what the modern kits provide, but for an inexpensive kit to start with as a base, the old PT 109/PT 117 is hard to beat. Just take your time and plan what you want to do and it can turn out to be a great learning experience on "kit bashing" an old dog into a proud thourobred. If you have any other questions, pop in and hollar, with all the modelers in here, someone will have an answer or two for you.

Jay;

Thank you for the info and help. Just started today and removed all the deck hatches. I do want to build it as it is in port and getting some fresh air. I also cleaned up the area for the 37mm AT. (should be in next week) I cut out the windshild area and will buid a new one. What a great kit to practice and learn and improve my skills on. I'm trying to upload some photos of the progress, but having a hard time with it. I will keep you posted.

Sam

Hi Sam,

You are most welcome. If you have any other questions, just ask, someone here will have an answer or two for you.

You might check out the posting photos section for some tips, all I am getting is a red "X".

Good luck with your Kitbashing.

What does the gentleman need to know. Maybe I can help.

Garth

Garth

Thanks for the help. I just removed the hatches. I want them to be built open. I also sanded down the forward area were the raft was secured to make room for my 37mm AT. I kitbashed that from a 1:72 Jeep kit (plastic). I also removed the forward deck rail. I will scratch build this to make it look more realistic.

Looks like I have to build the hatches if I can't kitbash them. I don't know were to start with the build phase on them. I don't wont to use PE, due to the fact that at this time I have never worked with it and don't want to get down on myself it dosn't work. I know that will take time.

I'm very open for any help. So far so good, doing alot of prep work and sanding. I also cut out the windshild and will build one with sometype of clear plastic. I have plenty of styrene in every shape and size.

Thank you

Sam

Group;

This is an update of the deck mod for the PT109.
Great News!!!! Some shipmates from the service came through with some modling favors they owe me. One provided me with the deck of the Revell British Vosper M.TB. and a section of extra parts plus all the molded wepons. I will be doing plenty of cutting and sanding from this deck. The depth charge racks are great looking. The T-Tubes and all the wepons are much more in detail then the PT109 kit.

Another shipmate gave me a kit he had collecting dust, called RAF AIR SEA RESUE LAUNCH. This kit is also 1:72 scale as the Vosper. This kit is made by a company called AIRFIX. This kit also has items I will be needing. Just waiting on the 37mm AT. For now it looks like plenty of cutting, sanding and pre-fab work. Once I start glueing, I will have photos worked out for the project. Should be around the 1st of the year for photos if not sooner. I would like to use Torpidoes instead of the tubes. The Vosper tubes with some mod work will look good. What do you guys think???

Sam

Well, PE (especially from WEM) isn't that hard to work with - or so I'm told. I'd use the PE hatches ...... they'll help you add detail .........

Funny, when I had my model of the 109 (looooooooooooooooooooong since gone bye-bye) built - I too found a 37mm from a jeep. But, WEM has a kit of the 37mm mounted to the 109 ... it is a good little kit Sam.

Sam, ... for the windshield? Don't use clear plastic. Boats 'in theater' had the glass replaced by wood or armor plating ...

Garth

Thank you for everyones advice and help. I'm working on it and hope to have some photos posted soon.

Sam