Does anyone have a good "how to" scratch build a model ship. I have plans drawn up for a completely custom modern US frigate with a waterline hull in 1/700 (to match my OOB fleet). I have only scratch built small add on parts before and I am not sure where to start with building the hull.

Hi David!

First, you will need LOTS of reference material, both scale drawings and photos. There is no such thing as too much reference material.

Second, I produce at least two copies of scale drawings (usually photocopied from reference books) at the exact size of my model. One copy will be cut to shape to make cutting templates from my building material, sheet styrene I buy from a local plastics firm. The other copy is kept intact as an overall reference.

Third, since I prefer waterline models, I take thicker sheet styrene (.060 or .080 inch thickness) and lay my waterline template on it to cut out the 'footprint' the ship makes at the waterline. Since most scale drawings do not include such a shape, I have to determine its outline from either body forms on better plan sets or, more often, by examining photos of the subject ship and interpreting the waterline form. Fortunately, most ships have vertical sides amidships, so the estimating is only for the bow and stern. I then cut the shape out of the plastic, which forms the foundation for my model.

Fourth, taking the profile from the scale drawings, I cut another shape from the thick plastic and glue it to the centerline of the waterline base I made earlier. I then add a few transverse bits the exact height of the profile that extend perpendicularly. In 1:700 scale it should not be necessary to have these bits go all the way to the edge of the waterline base; I use them to add stability to the decks so they will not 'list' when glued to the centerline profile.

Fifth, again using the scale drawings, I cut out the weather deck(s) from thick styrene and glue them atop the centerline profile and transverse pieces. Make sure the deck pieces are aligned lengthwise and across the beam.
You should now have a very stiff armature that defines the outer shape of the model.

Sixth, I use thinner plastic, in this scale .010, .015, or .020 inch styrene sheet for the hull sides, or 'skin' of the ship. I like to make the plastic for this step oversize so I can thoroughly cover a side and then trim to the deck and waterline edges. Because of the curves on the bow and stern, it's very difficult to cut the plastic precisely before affixing to the hull, so trimming after attaching is far less frustrating. I take the hull material and glue it to the waterline first--do not worry about aligning it with the waterline--let it overlap. Since I use CA glues with a separate accelerator, I can attach at a portion of the waterline, secure with the accelerator, and then advance along the water a section at a time until one side is affixed along the entire waterline. Next, I carefully attach the sheet along the deck edge, usually amidships and then gradually work fore and aft. At 1:700 scale we're looking at less than a half-inch of vertical separation between deck and waterline, so the sheet plastic will fall right upon the deck most of the model's length. For the flare of the bows, in this scale I would eyeball how much to push the plastic inwards before gluing at the deck edge. This takes some practice, but you will get it quickly. Trim the excess plastic and repeat for the other side. As with conventional modeling, filling and sanding is often necessary.

Seventh, fabricating the superstructure and larger fittings should involve straightforward scratchbuilding techniques common in armor and aircraft modeling. Most ship superstructures are not architecturally challenging. I usually employ the thinner styrene thicknesses for ease of use.

Eighth, use spares from similar kits and aftermarket products to complete fitting out the ship.

Though labor-intensive, scratchbuilding ships is less expensive in money than most ship kits and will let you go places kit manufacturers fear to tread.

Good luck!

--Karl

Awesome thanks