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General Ship Modeling: Super-detailing
Topics on photo-etch, metal-parts, and all types of additional detailing.
wood-to-plastic
joe4227
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: August 28, 2005
KitMaker: 36 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 08:30 AM UTC
I am reconstructing the 40-some year old Aurora kit of the Wanderer, using the original articles from Popular Science Monthly (1932).

Note that this is a styrene kit (and the plastic is old and brittle).

I am re-planking the Plastic deck with wood veneer. My question is, what is the best glue to use for this? Given the small size of the planks, and the fiddliness of locating around the cast mastheads, pumps, etc. I will need a little set-up time before the glue grabs.

I am shying away from the cyanoacrylates, as I don't want to muck up the veneer surface (and the need for slow setting).

The problem with epoxy would be mixing up small, continuous batches ( this may take some time).

Is there a good, slow-setting product for this?

Could others comment on their experience/technique at re-planking plastic kit decks with real wood?
CaptSonghouse
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California, United States
Joined: August 08, 2008
KitMaker: 1,274 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,236 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 10:55 AM UTC
Hi Joe!

For sailing kits in larger scales like the Wanderer, I use the kit deck as a template to cut sheet plastic of similar thickness. Next, I take my wood material (usually, very thin bass wood veneer) and cut a series of scale planks from them (a VERY repetitive task). Cutting the individual planks is vital to break up the natural wood grain pattern all about the original veneer sheet.

I return to my cut plastic sheet and carefully draw a line up the centerline and a series of marks off either side parallel to the center. Then, I cut out any deck openings like hatchways and holes for mast stepping.

Next, I begin applying planks onto the plastic surface, leaving enough bare plastic on the edges to allow it to fit into the hull grooves. After the planks are applied (and with CA glue, to boot), I place flat weights like book stacks on top to even out pressure on the entire deck.

When the glue has dried thoroughly, I like to lightly sand the wood planking to remove any plank bits that may stick up. Next, I apply any structural items like coamings or gratings as they appear on the kit deck, either reproducing them from wood, plastic, or cut away from the original kit deck. Finally, install as you would have the original kit deck and continue with the build.

Hope this helps.

--Karl
joe4227
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: August 28, 2005
KitMaker: 36 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 11:07 AM UTC
Karl

thanks for the prompt response!

I have been struggling to decide between several methods.

I have sheet plastic of the right size and thinkness to replace the deck. Then I thought, since I was going to plank individually anyway (to break up the grain as you mentioned) I might as well try to lay on the original deck.

There are only two primary gangways, and three mast holes. But there are two small pumps molded just aft of the main mast.

Also, I figured the original's deck scribing would guide placement.

The original (40 year -old) plastic deck was molded with a distinct bow to fit the hull, which makes fitting easier than replacing with flat plastic. But it is brittle.

Biggest issue is working around the few molded items that I still need. The mast step openings are molded in, but the veneer is thin enough to accommodate if I can cut around them.

But the biggest issue is what glue to use - Im not as dextrous as I once was, just afraid trying to work within the C/A setup time might end with me glued to the deck...
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