Merit includes these parts but the instructions forget to mention the actual cable, along with the ones that support the 'Side Cargoes'.
I used Nylon Beading Cord. It's used for making bracelets, and available in the crafts section at Hobby Lobby or Michael's. It can be attached with superglue, takes paint, and can be dry-brushed.
Despite these niggles, I'd recommend this kit to anyone interested in the subject. It's the only reasonably priced game in town in this scale anyway. The fit is very good. I just needed a little putty along the keel and lower hull. The deck is molded to the right-side hull half. Assembly is quick and easy. There are a lot of small parts that require careful clean-up however. One mistake that Merit makes is the linkages for the diving plane. They have them on both sides of the hull, they should only be on the starboard side.
A simple matter to correct, fill a couple of holes and add the guard that runs from the hull to the fin, I used brass rod for mine. With a little effort the planes, rudder, and their linkages can be made movable. Although the linkages are supposed to snap together, the joints are weak and they would need to be drilled and pinned together. While on the subject of guards, I'd recommend replacing the kit supplied plastic ones (C2, C3, & C6) with brass rod. The plastic ones are delicate,and prone to breakage (ask how I know). It also saves on cleaning up those parts.
I mentioned Eduard's set earlier, while not absolutely essential, it does improve the kit. The kit supplies a small PE fret which includes these plates along the keel.
However, the kit PE parts are merely dimpled, while Eduard's are actual holes and look nicer. Also, they'll take a wash better than the kit's parts. Eduard also supplies some small bits and pieces and some deck hatches.
Again, not essential to complete a decent looking model, but an improvement in appearance (BTW I don't own stock in Eduard, nor am I a paid spokesman for them). You might also note in the photo, the periscope. It needs a little correction if you plan on displaying it raised. The snorkel can benefit from a little TLC.

Knowing it would break almost certainly, I replaced part C1 with brass rod and added the small triangular brace with thin card stock. Eduard supplied the perforated upper section. It was my 1st attempt at rolling a flat PE piece into a cylinder, and was thankfully easier than I expected, or should I say feared. The snorkel can be left movable. I plan on leaving mine lowered and added the wire lead that should go from the antenna to the left side of the hull.
I wanted to leave a hatch open, for visual interest. Being afflicted with AMS, I didn't want to look into a "Black Hole". So I did what anyone afflicted with this dread condition would do, scratched a partial interior. The Wet/Dry Compartment was used by the diver to exit and enter. Pictures were hard to come by, so I make no claims for 100% accuracy. But, being a firm believer in "anything is better than nothing", I proceeded. 1st, the escape trunk.
Next, the hatch between the compartments.
One of my 'references' was the film, "Above Us The Waves". In one scene, where a diver enters this compartment, I noticed what looked like a hand pump. Here's my interpretation.
Not a lot can be seen through the hatch, but I'm happy with the result. Unfortunately I couldn't get a decent photo of it completed and installed. To finish up, I got some paint on the boat, so I'll leave you with a few pictures of where it stands.
That' all for now. Next up, some weathering, and one or two crew members on deck.
Al





























