Gentlemen,
Have a quick question. I know there are ways to layer paint in order to replicate hull plating but I want to take it a step further.
What material would be the easiest to work with but still represent realistic hull plating weld seams on a US WWII Aircraft Carrier?
I know alliance model works has a hull weld PE set but I would prefer to try something more readily available.
I am open to ideas.
thanks
Dave
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Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
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Hull Plating Question
Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 03:42 AM UTC
Harry_at_BFM
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 04:10 AM UTC
Dave, What scale are you going to do this in?
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 04:34 AM UTC
Weld seams in 1/700??
Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 06:35 AM UTC
1/350 scale
Harry_at_BFM
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Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 07:45 AM UTC
I really do not think you would be able to see a weld line in 1/350(IMHO).
I would try very thin stretched spur and thin Tamaya glue too soften the spur and make a chisel end out of some 20thou brass wire to create the weld line. HTH
I would try very thin stretched spur and thin Tamaya glue too soften the spur and make a chisel end out of some 20thou brass wire to create the weld line. HTH
TimReynaga
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Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 08:43 AM UTC
I agree, scale hull plating and weld lines in 1/350 would be pretty hard to see. Paint can actually work pretty well; this is a 1/350 destroyer with plating/weld lines simulated with two layers of Tamiya (gray) fine lacquer spray surface primer.
Even with this close up view and extreme lighting, the effect is pretty subtle. The covering camouflage paint will mute the effect even further.
Even with this close up view and extreme lighting, the effect is pretty subtle. The covering camouflage paint will mute the effect even further.
Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 11:37 AM UTC
Gents,
Thanks for the input. Some of the kits have molded plate lines but they are inconsistent across the breadth of the hull. Especially Aoshima IJN subjects.
I have seen some built models that the hull plates seams are more pronounced and well I want to increase the accuracy of my builds without becoming a rivet counter.
thanks
Dave
Thanks for the input. Some of the kits have molded plate lines but they are inconsistent across the breadth of the hull. Especially Aoshima IJN subjects.
I have seen some built models that the hull plates seams are more pronounced and well I want to increase the accuracy of my builds without becoming a rivet counter.
thanks
Dave
TRM5150
Massachusetts, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 03:37 PM UTC
I would think in the smaller scale to go with what Tim mentioned. I have used primer ...and/or paint (depending on effect) to simulate weld lines....and I though it came out fantastic. Top paint coats tone down the effect nicely. 1/350 I would do wither paint or putty depending on what you're going for.
Harry_at_BFM
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Posted: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 10:49 PM UTC
Dave,
Archers Fine Transfers produce some decal/resin weld and rivet tranfers you may want to check out. I don't remember the scale but a fellow ship modeler did use them on a 1/144 ship.
Archers Fine Transfers produce some decal/resin weld and rivet tranfers you may want to check out. I don't remember the scale but a fellow ship modeler did use them on a 1/144 ship.
Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 02:18 AM UTC
Gents,
Thanks again for the recommendations. I am having a hard time visualizing the subtle hull lines on 1/350 especially when I look at 1/700 and the panel lines are so distinct. Suck as Kostas' 1/700 Saratoga.
Are those panel lines overscaled?
Dave
Thanks again for the recommendations. I am having a hard time visualizing the subtle hull lines on 1/350 especially when I look at 1/700 and the panel lines are so distinct. Suck as Kostas' 1/700 Saratoga.
Are those panel lines overscaled?
Dave
TRM5150
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Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 03:41 AM UTC
They might be slightly over scaled. Looking at some of the older carriers, there is a mixed bag of plating showing. But yeah, in 700, you would figure they would be lighter. You would see some oil canning on the real stuff, not that I am suggesting doing that, but that would accentuate the lines on the real deal I think.
Harry_at_BFM
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Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 03:47 AM UTC
Dave, Check your PM's
Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 03:56 AM UTC
Gentlemen,
As always I greatly appreciate your insights and assistance. I am going to give the paint method a shot on the Yorktown. Heres to keeping my fingers crossed that I don't overdue it.
thanks again
Dave
As always I greatly appreciate your insights and assistance. I am going to give the paint method a shot on the Yorktown. Heres to keeping my fingers crossed that I don't overdue it.
thanks again
Dave
Harry_at_BFM
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 04:21 AM UTC
Dave,
Here is a 1/700 plating photo of my SS Drumgeith kit by Jim B.
Jim's full how-to article is on my site here:
http://battlefleetmodels.com/id133.html
Here is a 1/700 plating photo of my SS Drumgeith kit by Jim B.
Jim's full how-to article is on my site here:
http://battlefleetmodels.com/id133.html
Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 05:08 AM UTC
Hi Dave,
I tried the paint method of using dark colour/light colour lines together with mixed effect. Depending on the viewing distance it can look very effective I think. I tried with this build
On Achilles it works pretty well from a few feet away but if you look closely, it's a painted line. So depends on what you are after in terms of effect.
cheers
Michael
I tried the paint method of using dark colour/light colour lines together with mixed effect. Depending on the viewing distance it can look very effective I think. I tried with this build
On Achilles it works pretty well from a few feet away but if you look closely, it's a painted line. So depends on what you are after in terms of effect.
cheers
Michael