So-- here's the deal. Future is an Acrylic, and as such, enamel thinners are often a little too hot for it. I'd suggest using Turpenoid or a like product which is a little more forgiving. But why are you weathering over a gloss coat? It would be better to flat coat over the Future with something like Testor's Dullcoat, which is laquer based, then use your enamel wash after its thoroughly dry. A good rule of thumb is never to brush enamels over acrylics, as the thinner can disturb the paint beneath. But you can lightly spray a clearcoat over the Acrylic paint to protect the base coat. Also, go easy on the thinner wash you are using, a little can go a long way. You might also try some of the newer washes that are Acrylic based. I'm not sure Krylon Fusion is a good choice, as it's enamel (might even be a lacquer-- I'm not sure) and spray cans are hard to control, which might also disturb the Future. Another issue us how you applied the Future-- was it a heavy enough coat?
VR, Russ

Ok, so help me out. Google is confusing me:

Step process:

1. Prime (If needed)
2. Paint
3. ???
4. ???

Looking for the steps up to and after weathering

Quoted Text

---

Ok, so help me out. Google is confusing me:

Step process:

1. Prime (If needed)
2. Paint
3. ???
4. ???

Looking for the steps up to and after weathering

---

1)Prime
2)Paint
3)Future ( or other gloss clear coat if you are applying decals)
4)Flat Clearcoat (or gloss depending on the desired finish)
5)Weathering (followed by a flat coat, again depending on the desired finish— but normally weathering is “a damaged finish, and it’s hard to imagine it on a gloss)

Future is normally used for undercoating for decals (to eliminate “silvering”), achieving a glossy clear topcoat (as in cars), and for coating canopies and other clear parts to give them a crystal clear glass-like shine.Other than that, there really is no need to overcoat the entire model. It doesn’t make a very good base for weathering, as acrylic washes tend to bead up on it, and you’ve already seen what enamel washes do to it. Oil washes (as in diluted oil paints work better over Future, but they normally are used with Turpinoid (synthetic turpentine).
VR, Russ

I think the Tamiya panel wash in the square bottle uses thier Acrylic lacquer thinner as a base, which is why you've experienced the "Future melting" problem you've described. Many folks believe Tamiya paints are water or Ammonia based acrylics, but that's not true, they use an Acrylic lacquer for thinner. They can be thinned with plain old lacquer thinner as well. I prefer using thier proprietary "yellow cap" thinner. Once you have finished with the weathing, it's always best to give it a coat of clear flat, just to make sure it stays put-- this is especially true if you are using Acrylic weathering over enamel, or any of the "dry" powder types of weathering like Tamiya or Mig.
VR, Russ