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Hunley Help Needed!
Zepeleptic
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Posted: Saturday, September 10, 2005 - 04:45 AM UTC
Hey guys! (Wow, its been a while since ive posted here, been so busy!)

Im just starting on Verlinden's 1:32 scale C.S.S. Hunley Model. Im building it for my history teacher, who is really into its history, so I am trying to get it perfect My question is what is the color that is used on the box by Verlinden? iT's like a dark steel-type color, but I want to get the model itself accurate, so I would love some suggestions.

Thanks so much!
Eric
skipper
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Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 11:17 PM UTC
Hi Eric!

The colour scheme of the Hunley is another one of those things that are uncertain...
The Chapmann painting show it in a Light Grey
Verlinden's show it in black (weathered) .

Although I was tempted to paint mine as Chapmann portraied it, i opted to use the black. Weathered it with artists oils and with pastels.







If you need further help, please ask

Skipper
Zepeleptic
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Posted: Monday, September 12, 2005 - 04:32 PM UTC
Thanks for the help Skipper! When i start painting it, you will be the first guy to talk to! Ive got to ask since you built the verlinden kit, how the heck did you clear out that tail section where the propellor would be placed?? When i opened up the kit, the back (which should be clear) was filled with resin! It was a total pain in the butt to get all that out! I would love to know how you did it

Thanks
Eric
skipper
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Posted: Monday, September 12, 2005 - 10:58 PM UTC
Hi Eric

In most resin kits the "pain" is to clean the parts... as you already notice!
I will describe the ways to clear the parts from the pouring blocks:
- big pouring block with big part: razor saw and then sandpaper (wet);
- big pouring block with small parts: cutter, x-acto blade (never try to cut it at first cut - make several passes until it releases all by itself) and sandpaper (wet);
- parts embeded in the pouring block (as you asked):
use a hard flat surface (I use the kitchen marble counter near the sink - source of clean water) , place a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper, wet it (really wet) and the part too. Make eight figures or circular movements, say five clockwise, five conterclockwise and keep cheking for the amount of resin still needed to remove and for the equitity of your work - it should be constant and paralel to the real part. Keep pouring water into the sandpaper (the resin dust is harmfull to your lungs, but if you keep it real wet - no problem). Once you're almost "there" change for a fine grade of sandpaper (600 or 1000) and keep making the circular or 8 movements until you're there!
And this is how I removed the excess of resin.

If further help is needed, I am around!

Skipper
Ian2
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 03:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Eric

In most resin kits the "pain" is to clean the parts... as you already notice!
I will describe the ways to clear the parts from the pouring blocks:
- big pouring block with big part: razor saw and then sandpaper (wet);
- big pouring block with small parts: cutter, x-acto blade (never try to cut it at first cut - make several passes until it releases all by itself) and sandpaper (wet);
- parts embeded in the pouring block (as you asked):
use a hard flat surface (I use the kitchen marble counter near the sink - source of clean water) , place a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper, wet it (really wet) and the part too. Make eight figures or circular movements, say five clockwise, five conterclockwise and keep cheking for the amount of resin still needed to remove and for the equitity of your work - it should be constant and paralel to the real part. Keep pouring water into the sandpaper (the resin dust is harmfull to your lungs, but if you keep it real wet - no problem). Once you're almost "there" change for a fine grade of sandpaper (600 or 1000) and keep making the circular or 8 movements until you're there!
And this is how I removed the excess of resin.

If further help is needed, I am around!

Skipper



I would add to the above, if you can do the sanding outside, then it would be advisable. A dust mask would be a good idea too.
Ian2
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 03:42 AM UTC
Have you seen the articles on the Web about CSS Hunley? Apparently, it was recently raised and is to be restored as a museum exhibit or war memorial. A google search or similar should bring up some interesting info.
AJLaFleche
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 03:52 AM UTC
It was raised in August 2000. Evidence indicates the crew did not drown (as the TV movie dramatized) but ran out of air. They were all at their positions and there was evidence of gradual seepage into the hull with stalagtites on the ceiling. They have recovered numerous artifacts, including Lieutenant Dixon's "lucky" gold piece which was deformed by a bullet and the id tag of a Connecticut infantryman. The remains of the crew was interred about a year and a half ago in Charleston SC. The cause of the sinking is still unknown. See the official site for more details.
skipper
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 04:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I(...)including Lieutenant Dixon's "lucky" gold piece which was deformed by a bullet (...)



And a copy of it is now standing next to my H.L. Hunley, courtesy of our dear friend Dave
You know who

Skipper
woodstock74
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 06:41 AM UTC
If there's interest, on my recent trip to Charleston I went to see the Hunley. Now they don't allow any photos to be taken within the exhibit. But I did go to Magnolia Cemetary (misquito grand central!) and also did photograph the Hunely replica that is outside of the Charleston History Museum so have photos of that as well that I'd be more than happy to post (much less Forts Sumter and Moultrie and various artillery pieces).
skipper
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 06:57 AM UTC
Hi Mike

Yes I think it would be interesting, mainly because that particular reproduction of the Hunley (outside of the Charleston History Museum ) is incorrect, although the models that were produced until 5 years ago, were based on that reproduction and of some plans "drawn from memory".

Some modelers (me included) have CIM older HL Hunley models (cut-away and simple) and it would be nice to feed them some "true" references

Thank you for proposing!
Check your PM, please!
Skipper
woodstock74
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 02:00 PM UTC
Well I had many fewer images than I thought. Though I took some film images as well but just haven't had them developed yet and that's more than likely where my confusion came from:

Obviously there are major issues with the replica in regards to plan profile and side elevation. I also believe the Hunley's hull bolts were countersunk? Correct me if I'm wrong on that, though having seen the vessel in its tank that is one detail that is escaping me...hence I wish I could have taken photos to help with the ole memory:





Last one is a shot of a fiberglass mould of the actual Hunley's cross section as seen in the exhibit at the Hunley:



Were I to make a model of the Hunely I think I would be easily swayed to study Chapman's painting as history is finally showing us that he was the most accurate of all those who have portrayed her over the years.
AJLaFleche
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 04:22 PM UTC
The Chapmann painting on the cover of "Raising The Hunley" by Hicks and Krope,

DOes show the sub in gray, but this is llikely the artist's way of depicting detail. Painting it all black would have made a pretty boring image.
woodstock74
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 04:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The Chapmann painting on the cover of "Raising The Hunley" by Hicks and Krope,

DOes show the sub in gray, but this is llikely the artist's way of depicting detail. Painting it all black would have made a pretty boring image.



I disagree. CSN ironclads were painted gray as a primitive form of reducing rust inhibition. I don't see why the Hunley wouldn't have followed suit considering it spent all its time immersed in water. Rust would have been a real issue on the iron hull.
AJLaFleche
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Posted: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 04:48 PM UTC
Sounds reasonable to me. If you have more info on ironclads than (any is more than I have) , the Hunley being the only sea faring vessel I've done in 40 years, I'll defer to you.
g5runner
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Posted: Thursday, November 24, 2005 - 02:59 AM UTC
hi guys
a few years ago i helped les hooper with a basic css hunley hull that was finished by david merriman the best rc sub driver around. on the hunley, tim smalley has touched the real hunley and scratch built a working model of her. if you go to the subcommitte report wegpage you can llok all this up and leave a message for tim, david and les hopper. all are great guy's who will share there info on this piece of history. have a great holiday. g5runner
g5runner
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Posted: Thursday, November 24, 2005 - 03:09 AM UTC
here is there webpage. www.subcommittee.com
they cover all sides of sub modeling, rc sub's, static, history. enjoy. g5runner

EDITED BY SKIPPER: working link
skipper
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Posted: Thursday, November 24, 2005 - 03:39 AM UTC
Welcome aboard Warship Area of Armorama, Craig!

Yes, Subcommittee guys are great helpers and friendly - they have been helpfull in the past and probably will in the future - thanks for remembering us

Skipper
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