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General Ship Modeling: Painting & Color Schemes
Topics on painting and paint schemes are grouped here
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washes
spooky6
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 07:14 PM UTC
I've used enamels throughout for my KGV (as I do for my figs and tracks), and I'm gonna give the superstructure a dark wash. Is there any advantage in using an oil wash rather than enamel? I've used enamel washes and occasionally an ink wash for my figs.
Gunny
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 07:20 PM UTC
Hey Dave!
You will get different results with oil washes rather than an enamel mate, better flowability, for one, and a better definition...don't want to freak you out, but have you tried any acrylic washes? I've been messing with acrylics for a while now, experimenting and such, and I'll tell you what, mate, I've been coming up with some really great results! And the biggest benefit with an actylic is no chance of damaging your paint job, and if you don't like the results, ya wash it off and try again...
~Gunny
spooky6
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 07:26 PM UTC
Hmm, OK, the only acrylics I have came in glass jars and these are what I use to paint on canvas (as in artists' acrylics). Water soluable. Is this what you are referring to? If so, do I mix it with water as a wash?
Clanky44
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 07:40 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey Dave!
You will get different results with oil washes rather than an enamel mate, better flowability, for one, and a better definition...don't want to freak you out, but have you tried any acrylic washes? I've been messing with acrylics for a while now, experimenting and such, and I'll tell you what, mate, I've been coming up with some really great results! And the biggest benefit with an actylic is no chance of damaging your paint job, and if you don't like the results, ya wash it off and try again...
~Gunny


Hi David,

Mark is correct, acrylic washes are easy and very forgiving, as long as you start out with a matt paint surface. Just dilute the tube water paints with tap water and apply over the paint,... let it dry overnight, neatness, as seen in the photos below, does not matter. Remove any excess wash with a moistened paint brush. You will never again use an oil or enamel wash!!!

Frank









Gunny
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 07:46 PM UTC
Couldn't have said it better myself, Mr. Portela...
Thanks!!
~Gunny
Halfyank
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 07:52 PM UTC
Dave could you give more info on how you're using the acrylics? I've actually been trying to use acrylics with Future as the medium, and it's not working too badly. I might be trying out some " odorless turpenoid" here pretty soon, at least as soon as some package arrives. I'm going to try it out as well, both with acrylics and oils.

:-)
spooky6
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 07:57 PM UTC
I haven't started yet, Rodger. Was about to do an enamel wash, but now I'll try the acrylics. I'll just try what Frank suggests. What's the advantage in using future or turpuntine?
Gunny
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 08:02 PM UTC
Dave, in addition to a moist paintbrush to remove the excess dry wash, I've been using a moistened q-tip, with some of the cotton removed from the tip to reduce the size...with a little practice you can achieve a remarkable amount of control over what you want to remove...give it a shot, mate, and really, you can't mess it up...water soluable is user friendly!
~Gunny
grimreaper
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 08:05 PM UTC

Frank,
Great looking Hetzer!
Good looking scheme!
Gary
spooky6
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 08:07 PM UTC
That's true, Mark. Why turpentine, then?
Gunny
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 08:28 PM UTC

Quoted Text

That's true, Mark. Why turpentine, then?


Exactly my point, mate...I'll tell you, Dave, I was quite skeptical at first, but I, like Frank, use acrylics practically as an exclusive for washes...play around with your mixes and ratios, see what works best...
so far I've found that different paint manufacturers all behave somewhat the same, but there are slight differences...none of them harmful to you or the finish though!
~Gunny
spooky6
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 08:52 PM UTC
So what would you guys suggest I use as a wash colour, dark grey or dark brown? I thought the latter might suggest some rust. Or should I use both?
Gunny
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 09:19 PM UTC
Well, Dave, it really depends on what effect you're looking for...a good, all around color for most washes is burnt umber, which I use alot of, and I'll add a little yellow ochre to lighten it up a bit...if you're looking for a really rusty effect though, it's best to use the dab and drag technique with the paint of your choice...
~Gunny
spooky6
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 09:57 PM UTC
Will go with umber then as the KGV was probably in good nick at the time of the Bismarck chase. Thanks.
Clanky44
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Posted: Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 10:49 PM UTC
Hi David,

As far what colour to use, keep in mind the effect you're trying to recreate. Use black and burnt umber for recessed areas and panel lines. What you're trying to do here is to darken the panel lines and give the model a sense of depth.

Frank
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