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135
Pouring Resin: Easy and Inexpensive

Removal

Drying time depends on a number of factors; amount of catalyst, size of mold, and even weather conditions. Typically twenty four hours is the minimum curing time. To test the piece before removal, gently touch the exposed resin. Test it for how sticky it may be. If it is very sticky wait longer, if it is only tacky you may remove it. Removal is done by gently prying back the latex mold from the piece. At the same time you are prying the edge gently push on the bottom.

You can use a dental pick to help pry the edge of the latex mold from the piece. Be careful of any molded detail. If you give the cast piece time to dry outside the mold the stickiness will go away.

Extra Notes

You can drill and sand this resin.

If you notice air bubbles you can use a piece of hobby wire and insert it into the resin and gently pop the bubble. Do this early before the resin sets.

Another method of removing air bubbles is to gently tap you mold. The larger the mold the more effective this method is.

When the cast piece is removed it may be a bit sticky, be careful not to squeeze to hard or you’ll add your finger print to the cast detail.
Project Photos
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About the Author

About Scott Lodder (slodder)
FROM: NORTH CAROLINA, UNITED STATES

I modeled when I was a teenager. College, family and work stopped me for a while. Then I picked it back up after about 12 years off. My main focus is dioramas. I like the complete artistic method of story telling. Dioramas involve so many aspects of modeling and I enjoy getting involved in the ...


Comments

This is very helpful. Thanks Slodder for writing it.
MAR 15, 2003 - 11:28 AM
Thanks for hundred times!!! This is what I need to build my own conversion set from resin. Michal
MAR 15, 2003 - 07:21 PM
VERY NICE THANKS ROBERTO
MAR 16, 2003 - 08:15 AM
very good artcile.thanks slodder
MAR 16, 2003 - 06:25 PM
Solid article... and some real nice pictures. On small flat pieces, I also use a lot of Latex rubber mold, but I apply it with a cheap "sponge" paintbrush. that I discard after use. I also use the re-inforcement fiberglass tape every third layer, and do a minimum of 6 total layers. Here are a couple of other tips I would add, based on my experience of trial and error: 1) to reduce bubbles, place the mold on a sheet of cardboard, and set it on top of your cloths drier. Throw a few wet towels in the dryer. After pouring the resin, turn on the dryer and the tumbling vibrations of the wet towels in the dryer willl shake loose 99% of any trapped bubbles... this also works well if casting plaster in the mold. 2) If you are casting in a cold room (below 60-degrees F), you might consider putting the filled mold into your microwave. once it is poured and still in liquid form.. any additional heat that you can provide to the cold resin will aid in curing to a harder finish... but BE CAREFUL, especially on small items... if you over-heat, your resin may actually MELT back to liquid, and start "boiling".... stay nearby, and start with small timed increments of 15-20 seconds. I find this technique works extremely well, especially on molds with really fine, thin detail. 3) Take your time and measure accurately... if you use too little catalyst, then the finished piece will come out of the mold sticky and oily. If you think this may have been a bad "pour - hit the microwave - and the sooner the better! 4) When pouring resin, consider using wax paper or disposable cardboard beneath the mold - resin pouring often results in some drips and strands of "spider webs"....and the stuff when wet doesn't come off of a wooden or formica tabletop easily. If you DO spill some resin on a cherished surface - DON'T (D-O-N-'T) try to wipe it up while it is wet... it will only smear into a superfine coat. Just let it "set up". Once it is firm and hard, you may be able to "pop" or slide the piece off.
MAR 16, 2003 - 06:49 PM
Never had much luck with this resin to thick for me. But great article!! (++) (:-)
DEC 07, 2003 - 11:29 AM
Good article, Scott. Have you considered trying silicone to make your molds ? It's a bit more expensive, but a lot easier (and less smelly and messy) to work with. Happy to help you out if you like more information on this subject... Jan
DEC 07, 2003 - 11:51 AM
Hey, GF, I think Santa is going to be kind to me in the silicone area. So I'll be 'picking your brain' come January. The idea of the latex mold was to keep it simple and cheap for small items. It's come in very handy a few times. Waiting for January.........................
DEC 07, 2003 - 01:15 PM