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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
A note on WEM paints....
madwolf
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Illinois, United States
Joined: February 20, 2006
KitMaker: 258 posts
Model Shipwrights: 141 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 03:33 AM UTC
I have been working with WEM paints and they have puzzled me for a while. I normally try to mix enamel paints with lacquer thinner so that they dry quicker. When I mix WEM paints with lacquer thinner, my airbrush creates a rough, sandy surface (ironically, I thought it was my airbrush at first, then compressor, etc... so I ended up with another compressor, another airbrush and some other extra things ). As if the paint completely dries before it gets to the surface. I can then wipe a good layer of it since it comes off anyway (sandy). This kind of works on a sub since the surface wasn't perfect but definetely would not work very well on a modern plane for example. I've been trying different thinners yesterday and it seems like my Testor (enamel) thinner works best with it.

Also, just thought I'd let you know that the Schiffsbodenfarbe (sp?) color which is more commonly known as antifouling grey, is actually kind of greenish. I think I've seen this paint used on a member's 'Das Boot' build. At the time, I thought this was intentionally done, but now I can probably say they just found out about it when they started spraying this paint, like me. It looks nice, but I'm not sure how close to the real thing it is.
blaster76
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Texas, United States
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Model Shipwrights: 3,509 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 05:59 AM UTC
I have to agree that the Testor's enamel thinner is the best way to go when thinning any enamel paint (I only have 1 tin of WEM everything else I use is Testor's Model Master) It costs roughly $5 for a pint, so it ain't cheap. For Cleanng I use some store brand paint thinner which costs about $3 a quart. My airbrush seems to be pretty happy with this and I like the way it coats my models....no fuss....no muss
rokket2001
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South Australia, Australia
Joined: March 28, 2005
KitMaker: 353 posts
Model Shipwrights: 331 posts
Posted: Friday, July 06, 2007 - 05:58 PM UTC
G'day Madwolf,

re: Schiffs and the green, I bought some WEM and tried to match it, I think I did pretty successfully with Humbrol stuff, and I noticed that greeny too, altho it actually has a bluey in thre. It looks charcoal gray, but when you put it against charcoal, it's bluey/and sometimes greeny. I think it's good stuff, but I may stick with my Hjmbrol mix, because I can easily vary the col to get a bit lighter and splotchy for weathering.

The colour photos I've seen (granted, there is color shift after time and scanning), show the dark Schiffs quite light in a lot of areas. Lighting matters too.

Don't known if any of that helps.
PeteV
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: May 11, 2006
KitMaker: 172 posts
Model Shipwrights: 162 posts
Posted: Friday, July 06, 2007 - 06:56 PM UTC
Madwolf,

The problem you describe with the WEM paint can also happen with acrylic paints, I have had this happen on model submarines and aircraft.

The main reason would appear to be due to the paint drying in the air before in lands on the model, I have been told to hold the gun closer to the model or add more thinners. The other cause particularly on aircraft is possibly spray bounce as it happens in wing root areas and not all over, with this problem I have added more thinner and reduced my air pressure, I hope this helps.

WEM paints, I thin using a high grade enamel paint tinner, DACO Products from Belgium or Hannants and then add about 10% cellulose thinners, this greatly reduces the drying time, I have known some WEM paints to be touch dry within minutes but it does appear to depend on the colour of paint.

I think you call cellulose, lacquer over there.

Two people separated by a common language ??? (LOL)

All the best

PeteV
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