Here is a photo that I have that shows the difference between Tamiya's Navy Blue (I think it is. It might be Model Master Dark Sea Blue or Navy Blue) and the Teal Pearl that I have been using as of late.

You may be able to see the black base showing through on this one (port bow) where the super glue is showing through. I must not have sprayed the dark color over the Teal Pearl color to prevent this.

Here is a little 1/700 dio that came to me one evening and I worked on through the early morning hours. I just had to do it and get it out of my system

I painted a black siloette of the sub's hull hunder the water. You can barely see that here.





This is the USS James Monroe SSBN-622. I did four patrols in the North Atlantic on here out of Holy Loch, Scotland in the late 1980's.

I call the diorama "BROACH!!" Broaching was usually a bad thing for "Boomers" while trying to maintain periscope depth. The slapping of the planes on the surface of the water made us very detectible to aircraft, surface ships, and the sound made us detectible to other submarines, which is what we didn't want.

Carl,
A very informative article. I've experimented using plastic 'shower screen' which I get from a local manufacturer here in the UK. He manufactures it in 4mm and 6mm thicknesses and in different patterns. However, this stuff is pretty pricey - about £50 for an 8 foot by 4 foot sheet but he has been prepared to sell me offcuts at around £4 - £5 (enough for several bases).

I've experimented with many different methods of painting and profiling 'wake patterns'. These have included painting the underside (see my KASHINO' in the gallery) , painting the topside direct and also painting a sheet of plain 'typing paper' and putting it underneath - this gives a degree of depth and 'shine' to the water surface. I use acrylic Phthalo blue, phthalo green, sap green, black and titanium white in various combinations - all available from my local art shops.

For wake patterns I've also tried the acrylic gel, model putty and silicon seal - I'm still experimenting!!

Thanks again for this useful 'how-to'.

Jim S

Hi Carl

Sorry, but I missed this post!
It looks very good! And the idea is just the application of what we talked here - color "induction"! The simple application of one determined color will make the diorama more unique and with a story!

Can we have a on top photo?

Cheers and keep up the excellent work!


Rui

Hi all!

Keep up this thread, please!!!! I'm currently working on my first 1/700 water diorama (and on my first ship) and I'm sucking in all of your advice! It's a great inspiration to see your dioramas, and I hope that more of you are willing to share your methods! I love the simplicity, yet great effect of your method Carl! It seems like a very neat and "clean" way to accomplish a collection! And what a collection that is!

Rui sure has a valid point, though! I've spent quite a lot of time in different parts of the world, and water does differ in appearance! From greenish to yellowish to a steely grey. I suppose that the bottom, the vegetation, the surface and the great reflection of the sky are just some of the factors! The examples given by Rui are excellent!

Personally, I'm trying to accomplish the Baltic sea during one of the many dark, cold and grey autumn days. The Baltic is often very dark - I probably will try to darken the water a little furter. Anyhow, this is where I'm at right now (the Kirov is not glued to the base, and yes, the Saab Viggen is taking a rest):

I have used indigo as a base colour, but regrett a little that I didn't use something a tad more greenish... It's just so much fun working with the effects!

Once that I got rid of the idea of makin a plaster base within the frame (to messy, fragile and to dirty for my taste - I made three attempt before quitting), I used elastic plastic padding, regular putty and woodland scenics water effects straight on the glass that came with the frame. The rippled effect was mainly done by dipping wrinkled aluminum foil into the semi-hardened plastic padding. I'm working with acrylics. I haven't gotten around to adding a gloss finish yet.

Not trying to hog this thread, but all comments and hints are welcome!

Cheers! // Polarbear!

Hey Björn!

Nice work on the base for the Kirov!
The Saab Viggen also looks nice (although far away )
Can I suggest something? (still in time too):
When making the "main" splotches, make them with the base color still wet... this way they will blend with the main color. You can continue this with several colors (I usually make my "blends") until there's time to add the areas that will be pure white, - the last color I always apply, when things are dry. But I always use white to make the wake areas (again, blending it with the previous color).

As we can see, from the various MOD's and some Features (including the Water How To's - four at the moment!), I can say that each and everyone of us uses the method that we are more comfortable with (almost a method per modeler). The main point here is that the end result is convincing independently how it was made.

Another thing that I have discussed (on the positive side) several times with one modeler that I appreciate A LOT, for the themes and compositions that he totally builds, Jean-Bernard André, is that not only the location, but also the weather conditions tend to influence a lot the sea color.
After all this pacific discussions and points taken here in this tread and in others, and comparing my own works with others, I can say that I am very influenced by the place where I live! We have a great percentage of clear sunny days even during autumn / winter days...
Apparently, I tend to make bright / luminous dioramas, because of the influence on the area where I live.
I am turning this too serious or just turning MAD???


Rui

Bjorn,

You have a great technique! Very convincing! I like it. Forget my technique if you have mastered your own.

Rui,

I'll see about taking an overhead view of "BROACH!!"

Do both of you use artist's oil paints? Model enamel or acrylic?

I have dabbled in landscape painting on canvas in the past. A wet on wet technique with blending of colors. It just takes forever to dry.

I'll have to take a day and spend it on practice painting the top surfaces of the scrap pieces of OEP that I have and the Plastruct examples.

Hi Karl

My wet on wet, on my latest models, I have been doing it with acrylics - and so far, I haven't used artists oils... they surely take a long time to dry, but when I use them the effect is rewarding (mainly on decks and shadings)
Thanks
Rui

Here are the reqeusted overhead shots. I hope that you can make out the black shadow of the under water hull.

Hi Carl!

Thanks for posting the "Broach" dio!
It surely is convincing and a way of making a out of the ordinary dio, using just the sub tower and periscopes / antennas
Thank you for indulging me


Rui

PS: Can we have a MOD on the "Broach"?

Carl,

I've found some material at Lowe's that is used to cover windows. It's about a foot wide and 9 feet long roll of think vinyl. It maybe your alternative to the OEP.

Kenny

Thanks for your comments, guys! This is my first attempt, so I haven't chosen my "standard method" yet (albeit that I'm rather pleased with this attempt)!

I've used "easy to work with" Acrylic paints and rather big, round brushes. This evening, I've cooled down the effects a little (it is easy to go overboard!) and added more white to the wake. Now it is time to wet the hole thing down with some glossy coats.

Cheers! // PolarBear!

Don't forget to show us your finishing touches, Bjorn!

Kenny,

I'll check out the Lowe's stuff. What department will I find it in?

I now have samples of PLASTRUCT's "Agitated", "Choppy", and "Stormy" water sheets.

None of them, I find, have the same convincing effect as the TAMIYA OEP because they're not as thick. The PLASTRUCT sheets still just look like colored textured plastic when painted from underneath. I have even attempt painting just the base and putting the sheets over the top without painting them. Yuck!

In my practice for painting atop the OEP and the Plastruct sheets, I'll post some examples. I don't know when that will be. Maybe this weekend.

I'll keep you posted, Carl. I'm building the Kirov for the Cruisers campaign.

I've started adding some gloss to the surface. I couldn't help doing some basic "photoshopping", just to see how it would turn out..



Cheers! // PolarBear

I think it was with the blinds and window treatments.

Kenny