Hi All,

Ship modeling newbie here. I've done armor, aircraft, etc. but no real experience with ships. I done the 350 Tamiya Enterprise about 20 years ago; built OOB, paint, etc. I know how to sequence a build, mostly.

BUT... this will be the 1st time I'm gonna do a 350 ship with PE so I'm a little lost with regards to sequence. I've seen some build logs where the PE went on before painting but I've read, here and else where that the PE is painted first, if possible, before putting on the model. I've been following Dade's Kongo build and he's put on some of the PE but has painted the hull before the PE rails. Which is the way to go?

Also, I would like to stick with Tamiya or Aqeous Hobby Color (Gungze?) acrylics. What is the closest equivalence to Kure Grey and Deck Linoleum?

I can't be the first to tackle this beauty (monster ) on this forum.

I would say (perhaps beg you even) to not make the Akagi your first ship with PE project. Even in 1/350, PE is really finicky stuff for ship models and is in a whole other world than PE for armor or aircraft. You might want to maybe build Tamiya's 1/350 Fletcher with PE first to get your feet wet before doing something like the Akagi as your first attempt.

That way, you can answer your own question about which sequence you prefer for PE- glue to hull and then paint, or paint before gluing. I would just hate for you to get disgruntled with something so big and pricey as the Akagi. PE is probably one of my strongest skills and that kit scares me!

To answer your question from my POV about the sequence, the reason why I didn't put the deck PE on the Kongo was to make it easier to mount the wood deck. Also, the weight of the model and the process of airbrushing, it would have been easy to crush or damage the PE rails, so they'll be some of the last things to go on, long after the ship is attached to the base. OTOH, I sometimes put PE rails on 1/700 builds before painting as the small size means the PE won't be under as much stress. It really is on a case by case basis.

Regarding paint, Tamiya makes a Kure Arsenal Gray. With Gunze, the instructions will probably say to use Dark Gray 2 #83, which is what I use. It's made for IJN stuff (it's what my Kongo is painted). Gunze #37 Wood Brown is what I use for linoleum.

Thanks for the information and the advice. Really appreciate it. I'm a little more than apprehensive but think I'll take the plunge anyway. I love looking at your build log and am amazed at the stuff in the galleries; but will probably not do too many ships. The Akagi is a childhood dream and perhaps another one for a companion, like the Kongo or the Kirishima.

I did do a super-detailed 1/43 Tameo Formula 1 car kit and some of those PE bits are murder :_. Doing working PE latches on armor is no fun either; especially after the tenth one. I guess I just have to take my time and ask plenty of question from the masters here. One thing I won't tackle, though, is the jack stay. Sanding off the original detail and then bending, and gluing the PE stays looks a nightmare.

Ahoy, mate,
Welcome to Modelshipwrights!

I must commend your determination, my friend, taking on the Akagi as a first ship kit, complete with A/M accessories, will be a challenge for sure, but it sounds as if you've got previous experience with a like build...are you planning on making a "Build Log" here at MSW of the build? (hope so! )...looking forward to it, for sure!

Cheers,
~Gunny

Be assured that you will get plenty of assistance here at MSW,... and I'm sure you will not be the sole Akagi builder on line here at MSW. Good luck and happy modelling, I look forward to seeing your build blog.

Frank

yOU ARE THE FIRST. i JUST GOT MINE A WEEK AGO. i DON'T EVEN HAVE HALF THE PE FOR IT YET. YOU MAY WANT TO GET ANOTHER KIT AND A REGULAR PE SET AND DO THAT FIRST. THE UNDER THE FLIGHT DECK PE LOOKS LIKE A MAJOR CHALLENGER, AND I'V BUILT CLSOE TO A DOZEN SHIPS SO FAR. iF YOU DO IT, GIVE US A BUILD LOG. THE COLORS I CAN'T HELP YOU WITH AS I USE MODEL MASTERS ENAMEL. IT IS A VERY DARK GRAY AND LINOLEUM IS A REDDISH BROWN

IMHO, the Akagi is a perfect choice for getting your feet wet. Obviously, your not new to model making and P/E accessories, so just take your time, read the instructions and enjoy. Most important - any problems, just ask because there's always somebody reading the board somewhere in the world.

My preference in adding P/E rails is to paint them while on the fret and do any touchups once glued into position. Where I can, I gently scrape away the paint on the edges of the decks where the railings are going with a sharp exacto knife, so the superglue has a better surface to bond to.

Dropping nearly $600 USD on a first time build isn't really "getting your feet wet". It's more like taking a plunge off the high dive...

But hey, sometimes it works out for certain folks.

Some people have a natural ability and will surise us all.

Any way we will all be here for guestions and to leand support in any way we can!

Thanks for all of the encouragements. I will try to post as much as I can but don't expect the same Build Log quality as Dade. I'm also a very slow builder. I've ordered the super-set PE with the idea that I was going to work on the flight deck PE first. But I think I will get order at least Set A next week to get started on some of the HULL detail.

Dade:
You know what they say about a fool and his money .

Here's some pics of a past project that had extensive PE. Its a 1/16 Tiger (yeah... its the giant scale compare to what you guys are used to but some of PE bits are fiddly and I think I got some good experience out of it).

The PE behind each smoke launcher was tricky


These little latches are fun too


Lots of little working latches for the tools and cables


Overall size for perspective

I'm the very definition of slow, so no worries there. That's a really nice Tiger! And VF-1S Strike Valkyrie. I'm looking forward to your build log!

You probably want to pick up that superset pretty quickly. My understanding is that it was going to be limited production Right now all I've got is it and the ship. Believe me I was pretty much in awe of how difficult that set is going to be. You think you've worked small and fiddly. This one is nothing but and there is a lot......3 full sized sheets. I figure to get the a and b set of brass and at least 2 more sets of aricraft. That will be an additional $150 on top of the $350 I've already got into it. I'm skipping the wooden deck and Probably the last set of PE. I'll take a look at what is on it though before I make final decision. Look forward to your build. I've been waiting in the wings watching Dade do his Kongo. PLan to start mine in January.

The super-set is already on its way. Still have to get the others. Probably ordering the A this week.

I've been working the preliminary construction sequence in my head, looking throught the build instructions to determine what can be installed before putting the hull halves together and what needs to be assembled, painted before installing. There are a couple of areas. The trouble is one of those areas is the rear boat deck thats under the flight deck. This needs to be assembled, painted, weathered, then masked before installing. But in order to do it properly (if you're gonna put PE on the barges and life boats) then you must have PE set C, for the wo boats that go in there; which I don't (maybe a Xmas present).

As such there a some areas on the hull that have molding tool demarcation lines that needs to be rid of. SOme pin marks under the flight deck needs to be cleaned up as well. I'll try to start the log and post some pictures when I get home tonight.

I don't know why everyone is skipping out the wooden deck...Its the Best part of the ship. The wooden decks are phenominal!! They are ultra thin and fit perfectly on the kit's deck. They look realistic and to scale with random lengths. People are going to focus on the flight deck and I believe that painting won't achcieve the same level of "awesomeness!". People get the wood deck...you won't be dissappointed! Its worth it!

Its next year's budget.

Since I'm one of the biggest advocates of wooden decks around, if I got an Akagi, it would definitely have a wooden deck. Ah well, until then...

The wood deck is a big unknown to me. I want a model I can display for a couple of decades, and what happens to the glue over time? I can paint a plastic piece to look like a wood deck pretty well.

The wood decks on my wooden boat models has heldup very well after almost 20 years. They were stained and sealed with regular acrylic varnish.