Hi Arjan,

it seems that we posted this links at same time

Thank You for info about M.A.S. I was supposed that This MAS will be bigger than ELCO but it will be smaller

Please find bellow some images of S100 crew

http://www.ipmsdeutschland.de/Ausstellungen/Nuernberg2009/Bilder/Eichendorff/110.html

And some next photos

Best regards

Thanks Wojtek,
Looks like they didn't manage to get the bowgunner into the tub, behind his gun. The other figures also seem to require a certain amount of pimping

Arjan

Have to agree with you there Arjan, this crew seems just as dismal as the Elco PT-boat crew ( including the midget Otto Flick character sitting dangling his legs on the back of the bridge). Soft waxy features instead of the crisp moldings other companies can achieve.
May splash out out on some resin crew members instead of gettin stung by Italeri again.
Julian

Robert Schatton now also has a nicely priced set of depth charges for the Italeri S-100:



http://www.modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de/html/preisliste.html " TARGET="_blank"> http://www.modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de/html/preisliste.html

Julian

Hi Julian

this depth charges lookig nice but they seems to be simplified, if they are identicals from both sides... look at the original photo

Wojtek

Some pics of my bridge detailing efforts, the covers for the binoculars'lenses are too heavy. I haven't fitted all the detail yet (quite a bit of work). The thing in front of the binoculars would appear to be an electric bell of sorts (even the Revell model had a rudimentary one)? There is also a pic of my stanchion work (all finished now). I wonder about the bow tub stanchion I marked with ink. In many pics this stanchion is bent inward so as not to obstruct the anchor cable (even the Revell model has this feature).








By the way, I tried a Dragon Mg 34 ammo box to find out if there is enough room to fit the ammorack(s) because I had my doubts in view of the limited space. Unfortunately it turns out there is not enough room to fit a rack filled with these ammo boxes, probably because the walls do not have scale thickness and because of other minor dimensional errors as well.

Cheers,

Arjan

Hi Wojtek, I am rather curious if both sides are the same. I have ordered a set so I'll keep you informed on this.
Arjan, absolutely fantastic the work you are putting into your build. Will look really magnificent when you have it painted as well. Where did you get hold of your beading tool? I have been looking at a couple of online store but not much luck.
cheers,
julian

Hi Julian,
In Dutch they are called "greinendraaiers" and you can get them here:
http://www.dehobbysite.nl/greinendraaier-assortimen-p-22247.html
I bought mine secondhand for € 15, in general I think they are between 20 and 30 euros. In many ways they are more useful than ordinary p&d sets, although there is also a more sophisticated p&d set called the "nutter" but it's terribly expensive and it's mostly recommended for lead foil I believe.

Groet,

Arjan

Thanks Arjan, I'll be ordering one of these. Your patience adding all the rivets and nuts is amazing.
Cheers,
Julian

Hi Everybody, Im watching this forum for the very beginning and I like very much all the discussions and information’s arising from you guys. After the PT 596 build last year it was impossible for me not to get the S-100 kit and start it. Arjan you rivet counter, I totally agree with your findings on your first post about the kit and I have decide to correct the fitting problems of the bow deck (the biggest minus of that kit i think) thus resulting the re-riveting of the whole area. So after some filling and sanding I gave it a couple of coats of Mr. Surfcer 500 to make sure that no joints where visible any more. Next my precious punch n die set on hand and one by one the rivets that seems to be endless. Unfortunately since we have a new member in our family thinks are busy here so my progress is slow. I don’t know yet what other modifications I will do to the model except ofcourse that I will add Tamiya's Flakvierling 38 at the stern, Schatton modellbau 20mm gun barrels and expected sea mines that Robert is about to release soon.

Thomas


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For more Pt 596 and U-boat photos visit: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v11/gordinir8/

Hi Thomas,
Beautiful work (I'm referring to your boat model here ) ! I admit , I'm a bit of a rivetcounter but you take the biscuit , no Archer rivets here either. I like your PT boat model a lot as well , I still haven't painted mine, although I finished building it some two years ago .... I now want to finish it as a boat that served in the European theater (which does mean some details have to be altered).

Cheers,

Arjan

Very nice work on the bridge area Arjan.

Kenny

Arjan i try the Archer transfers that a friend of mine had but they looked small to me, plus that im doing heavy weathiring useing lot of white spirit over the paint and i wasnt sure if they could stand it, not to mention that are expencive for a model of that size. On the other hand the rivets i made are a bit oversize but i will take them down.

Nice work Thomas, think you will find that little people take sizeable chunks of your free time
Arjan, how can you stand building the Italeri PT boat and not paint it? its nearly indecent
cheers,
Julian

Hi Julian,
There were quite a few other models that required a paint coat as well . Besides, I didn't like the Italeri lighttraps and I couldn't get any good pics of them. Another thing that has been haunting me is the off-set mast. Since I have never seen it mentioned in the reviews and buildlogs I read, I assume the boat must have had an off-set mast. Only last year I learned that Ron 35 boats exchanged fire with E-boats off the French coast. Perhaps you could tell me what Tamiya colours I should use for these particular boats ,I understand that some were painted in measure 13 (Haze Grey 5-H). But all this is quite off-topic with regard to an S-100 build

Groet,

Arjan

My PT boat is still unassembled in its box along with the (awful) Italeri crew and Eduard PE set. I want to paint it in the Pacific green/black cammo or the black/white dazzle scheme so couldn't say which paints to use at this moment. Yes, slightly off topic I agree
Julian

Gentlemen -

I am approaching the point at which I will need to paint and button-up the wheelhouse. What color is the interior of the wheelhouse? White, grey, black or perhaps a lovely patterned wallpaper?

Any suggestions?

Chris

Hi Chris,
in the book "Anstriche und Tarnanstriche der deutschen Kriegsmarine" http://www.amazon.de/Die-Anstriche-Tarnanstriche-deutschen-Kriegsmarine/dp/3763759646 is a listung of all colors used for KM-vessels; as a covering color for the interior is mentioned "Nr. 60 Deckfarbe weiß für innen und außen", that means "covering color white for interior and exterior". But there are also named for alu-painting:
Nr. 80a alu-primer white or gray toned for interior and exterior
Nr. 80b alu-covering color white or gray toned for interior and exterior
Nr. 81 alu-covering color light-gray for interior and exterior
Nr. 82 alu-covering color dark-gray for interior and exterior

I think white is the right color - look at the pics of the engine-room in the Squadron-book, even such dirty rooms are painted white, so a wheelhouse as well! So it's easier for the provost to discover dirt in the least corner to tidy up!

Michael

PS: my ships interior (Zerstörer Bayern / D 183) was painted in a light green - but that was no problem for the provost.... long time ago

Thanks for the info Michael, think its a bit of a moot point unless you have opened the wheelhouse doors, you are not going to see very much through the wheelhouse windows even if you open the shutters.
Julian

Hi Chris/Michael/Julian,
The Frenchman's book has some wheelhouse pics (admittedly of earlier type boats) which show the walls to be dark (dark grey probably). The pic of the wrecked S-100 pilothouse (Squadron page 41) shows that the steering column ( telegraph) was painted Schnellbootweiss. My guess is that the walls were also dark grey (just like the inside of the armoured covers on some boats), perhaps to limit reflection of (chart reading) lights at night (S-Boote often operated in the darkness)? Are you sure Chris you don't want to open up some doors before glueing the "hat" on? I have just finished opening up the doors leading to the chartroom and to the wheelhouse (might well be misguided zeal) . Murdock also painted the wheelhouse dark grey (he might have been wrong on the stainless steel props but I've got faith in the man):


By the way, the Italeri door-handles are probably wrong as well (one more item to add to the endless Errata list).

Cheers,

Arjan

Thanks gentlemen -

I saw some earlier wheelhouse pictures and the walls indeed looked very dark so I will go with a gray color. I am planning to open up the shutters but I won't do any detailing since it won't be very visible once all is closed up.

Given the long list Arjan I don't think I want to open up the chartroom as I would like to get the model completed before I retire I will leave the handles as is and spend my time reapplying pretty much all of the side rivet detail lost sanding out seams and molding flaws....

I think I have figured out a way to slide the bridge into the Karolette from the back, which will allow me to address the seam between the karolette and the foredeck - I cut off the alignment tabs and it slides right in with no problem. Should make painting a bit easier.

Chris

Finished the oil dot weathering and have covered the hull with Vallejo matt varnish.
Now starting the fun stuff (not super detailing Arjan, still generally OOB):









Thanks for looking,
Julian

I like the hull weathering a lot. I also love the flagpole and the flag itself. I assume that you still have to stain and darken the other woodwork (slats) . I'm looking forward to your next update.

Groet,

Arjan

Julian you are right not super detailing but I like it, is just a plastic model and you don’t have to die for it. May I ask you to do something with your paint chips? A little smaller will be better. What im doing with those it to scratch the paint with my X-acto and then filling with rust paint. Sometimes im also using a pencil to highlight the edges as you can see on my 1/72 s-100 that I will never finish.
Keep us updated
Thomas

Hi Thomas and Arjan,
thanks for the comments, yes, I will be weathering the duckboards with some pastels.
Thomas I agree with you: the chips are too big (first experiment for me). I think I will buy some brown pastel pencils as you advise. I didn't realise at first it was the Revell 1/72 S-100 you are building. Keep up the good work !
Arjan, just loved the companionway ladder you have built at the back of the bridge. Looks fantastic and give ssome depth to the model.
cheers,
Julian