So I'm about to finish the Aoshima kit of the 1/350 Kirishima (1942). I've done the Fujimi Kongo (1944) about half a year ago. For me, it's always been a question which to buy - Fujimi or Aoshima. Time for me to give a résumé.

I built both models out of the box - I guess that's quite a shock for some of you, but it happens.

The final models are quite similar in the overall appearance, the Fujimi Kongo seems to be a bit ahead in terms of detail, but I think some of it is because there is simply more on the 1944 ship than there is on the 1942 ship. All the AAA and radar might just make it appear a bit more detailed. If you check the individual components close up, there isn't much to chose between the two. The 25mm AAA on the Aoshima model is a load nicer, the crane at the main mast comes with a pulley only on the Fujimi model. The vents on the Aoshima deck are molded on, so they are simply poles, while the vents on the Fujimi model are individual, mushroom shaped parts. Planes and boats on the Fujimi are more detailed, too. All in all, there is little to choose between the two. A small malus for the Aoshima kit are the multiple deck joints, which are a lot more visible than on the Fujimi kit. Imho, this more than offsets the infamous casemate shapes of the Kongo.

I've had a lot more fun building the Aoshima kit. The assembly of the Fujimi kit had some lows, and is my biggest grieve with the kit, I remember the Pagoda bridge to have been a pita in particular. No such thing on the Aoshima kit. It's much more simple in construction and also, the parts actually fit. Even some of the more complex, small things go really smooth. Almost perfect.

The biggest downside of the Aoshima kit is the assembly instruction. In fact, it tells you to install binoc on some poles on the uppermost bridge deck. There are extra binocs on the frame, and there are extra poles on the bridge, at lower levels, and on the smoke stack. Nothing more obvious than to put some of the binocs there, makes it look better. However, the assembly instructions don't tell you to do so, and if you were to go by the instructions, you'd end up with a load of silly poles. But that's a minor thing, my biggest issue is the lack of detailed painting instructions. Ok, it's not that difficult, but still, am I supposed to look at the small pictures on the box to know the details? Fujimi tells you exactly which colour to put where and also puts a big poster of the ship into the box, that makes an excellent quick reference on the wall next to the desk.

All in all, I think both models are very good. Personally, I'd rate
80% for Aoshima
70% for Fujimi
A decent assembly simply is more important than a decent assembly instruction.

For folks who like to use pimp their kits, may it be wooden decks or PE, I think there is less to choose between the kits, because taking all the molded on bits and pieces off the Aoshima model won't be much fun, somewhat negating the advantages of the easier and more fun assembly.

Someday I'll build a full blown Aoshima Kirishima. The correct casemates and good solid assembly are a big plus with me. I don't mind the multi part deck as a wood deck will go over it anyway and removing the molded on vents will be quick work for the rotary tool. I'll just replace them with items like the resin vents made by Voyager. Fukuya also makes brass replacement vents for the Nagato that would also work... Weapons will be replaced with items from Veteran Models (distributed by Aoshima). All in all, I think a pretty good build. I also like Aoshima's hull better.

Thanks for confirming some of the ideas that have been passed around on this and for writing them up.

I'm sure looking forward to that build log.

I'll give it a year or so until I get going. First, because after this current build, I'm tired of Kongos for a while and second, to give more time for the aftermarket to come out with something. I'm curious to see what Lion Roar and Fly Hawk come up with...

Key questions are....what PE is available for the Aoshima kit? Or would you use the Fujimi stuff. Which kit is the more expensive? Is it a big difference? The wooden deck, sounds like you would have to cut a bunch of stuff off and buy replacement parts to do the Aoshima adding to the cost. I'm happy with my Fujimi the wooden deck was and PE was made by the manufacturer to go with it with minimal fuss.

Aoshima makes PE for the kit. But note that I said I would wait a year to see what the aftermarket comes out with-- Fujimi's PE is really pretty lousy compared to what Lion Roar and Fly Hawk can do (why did Fujimi make the flight deck out of such thin brass?), so I'm gonna wait a while to see what the "specialists" come up with. I'm visualizing a dedicated set by one or both including PE, barrels (both main and secondary), etc. that would nullify any issues. The same goes for a deck.

The Fujimi kit costs more but not by much (2,000 yen). But factor in the time and effort it takes to fix the casemates, the lousy fit, etc., and well, time is money. On the other hand, the Fujimi Haruna in the box is better than the Kongo, so it's very possible that Fujimi's kits may get better. But as long as the casemates are wrong and there are no vertical welds, only horizontal-- and the Aoshima kit is known to go together easier and better... my next Kongo class will definitely be an Aoshima kit. After I wait a year! Besides, I don't want to build the same ship twice, so I want to do the Kirishima.

I saw the excellent build of the fujimi Kongo by Dade, but have also bought an Aoshima version instead. I didn't want the casemates bugging me! I have the flyhawk PE set for it, which is built especially for the aoshima version..quite a daunting prospect adding all of it! Very comprehensive set though, which includes replacement barrels for the main and secondary guns. Might get some veteran models AA 12.7 and a hasegawa deck set for the funnels, but may leave the funnels as is. I can't find any wooden decks for the aoshima version, but don't mind painting if I have to. Have made a start by gluing the hull together and it looks good, it will be a slow build though I suspect

Of note is that the Aoshima casemates and entire upper hull are covered in vertical "ribs" that are from the as-built configuration (1914 hull is basically a different ship entirely) and have nothing to do with the intended WWII kit subject: It is as bad visually as the Fujimi casemates, if easier to fix.

The Aoshima also has largely fictional bilge keels (way too broad), oversized main guns, and missing torpedo bulge front and back delineation limit. The Fujimi kit always has a badlly warped hull bottom that assembles poorly, like all Fujimi battleships, but easier to unbend on the narrower Kongo hull.

Worst omission of the Aoshima is the lack of torpedo bulge top brackets, a prominent feature entirely missing. Generally the detail is far better on the Fujimi superstructure, with thinner tubs walls all around, but Fujimi has an error in the pagoda assembly that requires trimming of the main mast supports to keep the pagoda decks level.

The Fujimi casemates are very hard to fix, but otherwise the Fujimi kit is clearly superior to the Aoshima. Even the Fujimi hull plating is of more appropriate width is seems.

Gaston

Thank you for taking the time to share your evaluation with us JayTDee, this information is very helpful!