Ahoy!
I’m using a lot of PE and brass in general. I’m quite fed up with using superglue, finding out 2 days later that the parts are not properly glued (in the meantime I’ve build around them of course

Someone just told me that there was a type of soldering that worked great on PE (contrary to regular soldering that sometimes works and sometimes destroys your PE, at least when I do it)
It’s called resistance soldering (forgive the bad spelling, english is not my native language).
I see some RS stations for sale at mini-mark and others. I could afford one, the question is: is it worth it, does it work?

Please advise, I don’t want to spend money on something only to find out it’s not adapted to my problem.

Many many thanks!!

At my local IPMS meeting last week we had a demonstration of resistance soldering. It does work well on PE, and transmits very little heat to the rest of the PE part.

However, there are several MAJOR issues:

--the process uses low voltage, but relatively high amperage (current flow) which can give a very nasty jolt if the equipment is grabbed the wrong way

--you will need to be adept at handling the soldering device and having the delicate PE parts set on mounts

--the device can have a steep learning curve to master

--it is important to keep the needle tips on the device clean between individual applications

--make sure the correct brand of solder is used

Other than all that, it seemed to work fine, though for my tastes, I prefer working with CA adhesives on PE.

Bon chance!

--Karl

Many thanks for your answer, Karl - it does sound like a steep learning curve indeed, I’m not sure I’d have the time to invest in that..
But what is more important: no risk of electric shocks for me, I wont even try this system. PE and co are part of my hobby, to me a hobby is something with no heavy security risks (X-acto.... is enough!).
Many thanks again, I think I’m going to go back to cyano and try to understand why it only works every other time I use it.

Cheers et merci

hello MCC,
get a hold of Staffer Kenny Loup here at MSW,he makes a product called Gator Glue.it works great with PE,Resin,etc.i have used it on all of my builds and highly recommend it.
cheers,
Bruce

Yes that glue is great!
I haven’t used it on PE yet but I am certainly going to!

I never use anything else. GO GATOR GLUE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just tried it on PE, and ordered 10 pots of it!
Gator way to go!

Like so many things in life, I find a combination works. Gator Glue is excellent. I've compared it to CA (superglue/cyanoacrylate), and for strength, it's very good. Ease of use we know about! Soldering is good when you have to close up a folded piece, or when combining a few pieces. Soldering is not scary once you've wrecked a few bits.

I just bought a very classic soldering station (one can set the exact temperature). I have no idea which solder type to user or which temperature to set. I plan on soldering some brass tubes and thick wires (1:72 handrail size more or less) and possibly try some PE.
All advice you can give me will be moist most welcome!

Torpedo Los!
M

I have been interested in resistance soldering for a long time as well, but have never found anyone who knew how.

I started soldering using the WEller variable temperature iron that Mirco Mark sells and am very happy with it , specifically for box constructions or 90degree corners.
I also use their Flux and silver solder.

My inital mistake was to try to flux the part, then hold the sides of the box together with one hand, hold the soldering iron with the other, and hold the strand of solder in my other-other hand..

Sorry if the humor does not translate, it took too many hands to do.

Since then I learned about 'tinning' the iron. Getting some solder onto the tip of the iron, then putting the solder onto the edges of the parts.
Now fold the edges together, brace in place , and touch with the warm iron.

The heat of the iron quickly re-melts the solder which flows along the seam.

Any flat, sandwich, constructions I use Gator glue and have been extremely pleased.

what temperature do you use for brass?

So that was you! I've received your order and will ship it out to you next week.

Yes Mr Loup, that was me! As far as I know no one is distributing your wonder-glue in europe, so I thought I’d make a secret reserve of it - plus several of my close modeling buddies are curious about it, “small gifts are good for friendship“ says the saying, hence the 10 units!
This glue is a wonderful thing - thanks for creating it!

Hmmm. I have several distributors in the UK and Europe, but that's ok too.

Oooooh, I didn’t find that info anywhere!

I feel like a dummy
Doh!

apologies

Don't worry. I ship around the world my friend.

Typically, Cyano doesn't stick if the edge of the part is too thin or the surface is dirty. Sometimes it could be old or low quality cyano or even not enough on the joint.

Here are examples of recent items I've done, all cyano in 1/350 scale. http://www.resinshipyard.com/pages/kit_pages/iroquois_2004.html
and http://www.resinshipyard.com/page_images/kit_photos/haida/haida_built_brass_6.jpg

I also use extremely fine glue tips to allow a smooth flow of glue where I want it. http://www.resinshipyard.com/pages/tip_pages/glue_tips.html

HTH's
Darren

your Haida is a thing of beauty!

thanks for the info, most appreciated!
Cheers
mc

I have a resistance soldering setup, from American Beauty. It is easy to learn how to use it, never shocked myself (it uses a foot pedal to activate the current flow) and I prefer it over a soldering iron.
Ron W.