I'm looking to tackle the Revell of Germany 1/72nd U-Boot Type VIIC (U552), and there are numerous upgrades out there ranging from PE to rivet detailing. I want to know what are the better options and which ones compete with one another.

For example, both Eduard and White Ensign Models make PE upgrades costing about the same amount. Are they more or less the same, or is there enough difference to justify getting both?

Yankee Modelworks, for example, makes resin pressure hulls for the kit. Are these interior details that don't show, or necessary "accurizing" detailing? I am not interested in interior cutaway details like Planet Models' command or torpedo room sections.

What about the Nautilus Models wood deck? Is it a really accurate feature or lost once the painting starts?

I'm an experienced armor builder, but this is my first ship in many years.

First off the vast majority of U-boots did not have wooden decks, so I would genrally skip that expensive after-market. Some company had replcement metal deck, I got it and hate it as it shrinks less then plastic in the temperature changes during the winter months (yes it is inside) and it buckles occasionally. and was a lot of work for nothing. Don't know what the pe sets offer, personally if I were to do it again I would once again drill out all the little blow holes alongside the top, nad replace those bottom areas with the metal srceens. I also thnk OOB would be a good ay to go. The kit is that good looking. Get a few figures to put on it and it is a show piece.

Hi, Steve, thanks for the reply. I'd like a reference to the part about metal decks, since this site devotes quite a bit of time when discussing U-boat colors to the decking. Metal decks would ice up more quickly than wood, so at least the early boats like the RoG kit would seem to have wooden decks. But if you have some contrary source, I'd love to hear about it.

I'm generally not an OOB builder if I can improve a kit with PE or resin. And in this case, there are competing PE upgrades (White Ensign vs. Eduard), and I'd like to hear from someone who have experience with both or has at least looked into the two for evaluating them.

Further to the question about wood decks for this site:

The curator of U-505 (Chicago Museum of Science & Industry), Keith Gill, has released some very interesting info on wood u-boat decks. In his words (slightly edited to combine forum posts and emails for clarity):

“The deck was fir or pine. It was treated with Carbolineum or sometimes wood tar, they used whatever they could get. Carbolineum was a pre-1900 German product that was then licensed to German manufacturers after the Carbolineum company founders moved to the Milwaukee area in the early 1900s. The benefit is of course wood preservative, however it is also a black or deep brown color on the wood which of course helps with hiding the deck when shallow submerged.

When we recently restored the U-505 we were able to get Carbolineum from the original company to treat the pine deck, thereby returning it to its original appearance. We painted it on with rollers, the Germans likely immersed the wood and got a darker effect. It is a very deep brown almost black look. However, when exposed to the sea and air it must have lightened some as our deck was treated with two coats rolled and then it sat in the weather for almost 1 year and it did indeed lighten. If you depict a very dark brown it will be correct as new, a little lighter perhaps for at sea look but still on the very dark side. At least we have it right this time.”

Bill:

I couldn't give you a reference. I am sure there are some dedicated sites out there that list what is what. Sure there wre several that had wood, but more just had the metal which is what the kit has and this info was what was told and spread around when the Wood deck aftermarket came out, it just wasn't that commonly done. My thing would be to model a specific boat and find out metal or wood. Like I said, I did the aftermarket metal deck and wish I had not done so. I did drill out all those venting holes and I used aftermarket and cut away all the lower vent sections and replace them. I know they had prop shafts, propellers, and all the periscope array as aftermarket. I did this kit up about 5 years ago and at the time they were releasing more aftrermarket then you could shake a stick at. I do not know what is still avaiable.

[quoteMy thing would be to model a specific boat and find out metal or wood.[/quote]
That's a good idea! Thanks.

Bill ref the Eduard/white Ensign etch

Both are excellent, before I go any further I want to make sure I say that. I got both sets as they overlap considerably in what they cover, vents hatches, I would recommend you do too if you can afford or wish to, plus White ensign have released corrections for the hull I know that save/create work depending on your point of view,

Eduard supply the metal fore and aft sections which look nice and countess replacement part many of un-needed in my mind, but PE manufacturers do that. their wirecutter is better looking detail wise than W.E.s more accurate??dunno the detail is sharper and more *there* generally but again accuracy wise I would tend to favour favour W.E.

White ensigns set is different seems more focused on little mods to change as well as enhance the build Deck hatches, a different vent system for the conning tower and vent variations for the existing ones if used mant details missed off the kit for the hull to give it some extra interest too

I do reccommend getting the CMK tower update set though, it saves a lot of work on the tower and the periscopes are beauts.

Hope this drivel helps. Keith

Thanks, Keith, that's very helpful.