See title. I'm using a Revell glue, because it is the only one available in the local store (in fact in all my local stores I've been to over the past two decades) and, well, it works. Not perfectly, but good enough for me. Biggest downside is it works with plastic only. I would like to try out others, but also would like to avoid mistakes. So which ones do you use, which ones would you suggest me to stay away from?

I use both the liquid and gel superglue. It comes in three packs from the dollar store. I waste alot as I put a drop on a scrap and dip thin wire in it for an applicator to the model.

I use good old Testors tube glue most of the time. I like the tackiness and thickness, plus I got a real good deal . Friend of mine owned a hobby shop, He got a few cases fro free and sold it to me at 4 for a dollar. Usually have some form of liquid glue be it testors tenerex or Tamiya. USe Gator glue rather than super glue. On ships pe parts are just so small and super glue likes skin best of all (after all that is why it was nvented). Also Gator glue has a bit of tac to it so parts stay in place and it takes a minute or so to dry giving a little time to adjust.

You're not using dedicated modelling glue primarily? That's interesting. I found standard superglue to be very messy in the application. Sucks if you find a missing secondary turret glued solidly to your handwrist. Maybe I have to work on my tidyness...

I find Humbrol Precision Poly to be very good, is normally dry in about an hour and sets very strong. I also use CA (super glue), like the previous comment, i put a small drop on non absorbant material then use a pin or fine wire to apply a small amount to the part being glued, works well. I go through a mountain of super glue but it can be purchased very cheap, the last lot I bought only cost $2 or a card of 7 tubes.

Cheers

Des.

I use three different glues, Tamiya extra thin plastic cement, Liquid super glue, and Gator Glue. It depends what I am sticking together as to which I am using. To me the thin glues work great with capillary action and really make the different when holding parts together and gluing them.

I also use tooth picks and needles to apply glue to joints or small itmes.

I use Ambroid Pro-Weld for 90% of my styrene building. It's very strong and sets up fast. It's kinda hard to find though, so I usually buy a LOT of it when I do find some (down to two spare bottles).

http://www.ambroid.com/Ambroid.html


When I have to slather a lot of glue down into a finicky plastic hull (like the Kongo's), I use Gunze's Mr. Cement Deluxe. This stuff is pretty hard core and is based on acrylic and organic solvent. It includes a large brush for putting the glue on in large quantities and isn't really made for detail pieces (it'll likely melt them). But for big stuff, it's great.

http://mfpilot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=40_66&products_id=687&zenid=d59a3be612176187d7f5cf51b0ae0035


For pieces that require CA glue (resin, etc.), I use Zap-A-Gap. It dries clear, not frosted, like many other CA glues. It costs a little more than most CA, but works like a dream. True to its name, it can also be used to fill in small gaps and can be sanded. Like the other guys here, I put some out on a piece of foil and use a toothpick or something small to apply it. As with my rigging material, this stuff is also used in fly fishing (gives an idea how strong it is...).

http://www.mwflytying.com/materials/secret_weapon.html


Finally, for gluing really big stuff made of something other than resin, I use the local hobby shop's generic brand of two part-epoxy.


Hope this helps!

Since I might not get my hands onto the same brands you guys use, I figure I'll have to try a few things out. Thanks for the input so far, more hints welcome.

What does CA stand for?

Is Gator glue a type or a brand?

I use Tenax-7r andgood ole testors.

Gator Glue is something I came up with because I never got the hang of using CA (superglue). It works like white glue but holds better than superglue. And the bond remains flexible.

Gator's Grip Hobby Glue

Super Glue is a single-component CYANOACRYLATE monomer in the liquid state capable of extremely rapid polymerization between adherent surfaces, resulting in extremely strong and structural bonds at room temperature.

This instant adhesive will, with only normal surface preparation, bond all materials commonly used in the engineering industry, except polyethylene, polypropylene, teflon and very porous surfaces.

Hope this helps.

cheers.

All of the above plus Testors liquid cement, both the regular and non-toxic version. I also like Gator glue, I just keep finding more and more uses for it. I only use the tube glue if I’m working on very thick styrene that needs extra holding power.

I used to use Skyward liquid glue, but after years of gluing individual track links, I started getting serious headaches and other ailments,.... god knows what that will do to me long term. I now use Tamiya extra-thin, no more headaches and it bonds plastic very well (based on the models I've dropped), I also use the Tamiya extra-fine as a temporary bond for my photo-etch parts prior to adhering the part permanently with CA. C.A. glue is used to reinforce delicate parts as well as gluing PE parts, I also use Zap-a-Gap CA to fill in air bubbles in resin parts and plastic short shots.

Frank