Hi evryone
I am about to start a build of HMS Repulse 1/350 (trumpeter).
I want ot get the wooden decks looking good with caulking. showing a bit of weathering etc. I hear talk about doing "washes" to high light the planking and caulking but I don't know how to do this . I have tried various things but without much success. On some of the models shown on this site the decks looks superb.
Can any one give me advice ( tips) about how to achieve this realism.
Regards
Colin swager

Ahoy, Colin!

Well mate, there are many methods of achieving that deck look that you wish, but one of the best and well described method can be found on a feature here at MSW, by Dade W. Bell, right here, my friend...in step by step fashion!

Good luck, and keep us posted of your progress,
~Gunny

If you did not get the real wood deck accessory, the article will not help. If you are talking about painting the plastic simulated wood deck....

Generally, I prefer the real wood vener now days, but if it isn't availalbe or cost prohibitve...

I use a light tanexcept on US WW2 ships). Paint the entire deck area. then go abck with a slightly darker tan and spot a bit trying to simulate different wood colors. maybe a 3rd and 4th vatiation as well. Now Dade recommends the Detaier. water based stain in various colors. I use black and brown. Smear it on then gently blot up excess. Looks decent, nothing will match the real wood though.

Just because i happen to be finishing a 1/350 Repulse i have to add my comment for the specific ship model.
You dont need a wood deck replacement for this kit in my opinion.The detail provided is very good and with a bit of work you an get a very realistic deck.

Thanks Mark
Looks good to try.
Colin

Thanks Steve
You are correct. I was talking about the platsic deck as supplied with the kit.
Thanks foyr your advice.
Colin

Hey Kostas
Great to hear from you. I am a huge admirer of your work. There are any number of very talented modellers out there but the work of Jim Baumann and yourself is hard to beat in my opinion.
I am new to this modelling game and my Dreadnought which was recently posted was only my third attempt. I found the iron shipwrights kits quite a challenge and therefore am happy to go back to a plastic kit this time.
Any advice you can give me would be most appreciated. It is hard to get alot of stuff that I need in New Zealand so I have to make do with whats available. Mainly Tamiya and Humrol paints are available here.
You achieve fantastic looking decks on your models so any tips would be gratefully received.
Great to talk to you
Colin

As a quick guide , i paint with a basic shade of wood i choose and then with about 2-3 different shades of the basic color with added some white, red, etc.Of course you will have to paint the first hand the whole deck and then selectively paint individual planks with a very fine brush, with the following different shades.Once finished apply some oil washes of burnt umber , raw sienna etc according to the hue of the wood you want to have.
Tip one: dilute the paint almost to watery point , this will help for the color not to build in the gaps between the planks .This is vital as the oil washes will bring that detail up later on.Also helps with the painting as you will find you can paint much easier --your brush will slide better on the plastic--provided you dont carry too much paint on the brush .The secret is patience here.It will take a few hours at least.No need to put too much paint on the plastic on the first hand as most of the planks will be re-painted with a second hand of a different shade anyway.Once you apply the oil washes , dont just let it dry as is covering uniformly the whole deck , but instead with a medium brush start cleaning the planks at random from the oil creating thus even more variation at the tones.Always stroke the brush parallel to the planking .Start with lighter oil washes and move to darker shades of brown or black.This way you can control the overall tone of the deck .Make up a percentage coverage table if you like of the shades you are going to use.For example and mostly for 1/350 or bigger , the majority of the planks should be more or less brownish and then a 10%-15% redish/deep red brown and maybe another 10%-15% lighter brown /worn out if you like. That way you will end up with a deck that has a lot of variety when observed from very close distances but at the same time will maintain the uniform tone/hue of the wood when you start getting further away, and hopefully wont end up looking like a Tetris wall.

Kostas
Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate it. I can now give the decks a go with renewed confidence.
Watch your back my friend ,one day I hope to be as good as you.
Kind regards
Colin