any help would be awesome 
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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
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Railings & Wood Decking
K-Tama
Joined: December 07, 2012
KitMaker: 33 posts
Model Shipwrights: 7 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 05:43 PM UTC
Quick question... I plan on building a 1/350 scale Eugen and I wanted to go all out . I'm planning on buying a wood deck kit and photo etch railings. Should I attach the railings after the wood decks or attach the decks first and then the railings? I'm fairly new with photo etch railings but have some previous experience. But not with these fancy wooden decks any help would be awesome
any help would be awesome 
RedDuster
Joined: March 01, 2010
KitMaker: 7,078 posts
Model Shipwrights: 6,649 posts
Posted: Monday, December 30, 2013 - 02:43 AM UTC
Hi Kaimana,
I am getting into wood decks, and have used a few, my method, is paint the hull & moulded deck details that will protrude through the deck first, then fit the deck before adding the railings or superstructure (generally), have a look a my build log of HMS Dreadnought of on the "Ship Types by Class board on this forum. will give you one way of doing it.
Si
I am getting into wood decks, and have used a few, my method, is paint the hull & moulded deck details that will protrude through the deck first, then fit the deck before adding the railings or superstructure (generally), have a look a my build log of HMS Dreadnought of on the "Ship Types by Class board on this forum. will give you one way of doing it.
Si
blaster76
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Model Shipwrights: 3,509 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 07:50 PM UTC
railings should almost be the last thing you do. delicate easy to knock loose /bend
vonHengest
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Model Shipwrights: 350 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 08:40 PM UTC
I would have to agree, the railings are just too delicate to be working around.
RedDuster
Joined: March 01, 2010
KitMaker: 7,078 posts
Model Shipwrights: 6,649 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 - 10:49 PM UTC
Steve, Jeremy,
Concur, sorry didn't make that bit clear.
Si
Concur, sorry didn't make that bit clear.
Si
K-Tama
Joined: December 07, 2012
KitMaker: 33 posts
Model Shipwrights: 7 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 01, 2014 - 01:09 PM UTC
Thanks guys for the replies...helped a lot happy New Years! 
happy New Years! vonHengest
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Model Shipwrights: 350 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 01, 2014 - 02:36 PM UTC
Si, you were plenty clear. We were just agreeing with you
Glad we could be of help Kaimana. Si is plenty experienced with kit mods, and his build photos are really helpful. We're looking forward to seeing your build here, she certainly has many fans
Glad we could be of help Kaimana. Si is plenty experienced with kit mods, and his build photos are really helpful. We're looking forward to seeing your build here, she certainly has many fans
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Model Shipwrights: 833 posts
Posted: Friday, January 03, 2014 - 06:05 AM UTC
I would like to ask a question here as I have not used wooden decks yet either. Does the wooden deck come right up to the edge of the plastic kit hull, or is there a plastic lip left edging the wooden deck to glue the railings on? Wood is not a secure footing for glueing P/E to.
warreni
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Model Shipwrights: 2,624 posts
Posted: Friday, January 03, 2014 - 08:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I would like to ask a question here as I have not used wooden decks yet either. Does the wooden deck come right up to the edge of the plastic kit hull, or is there a plastic lip left edging the wooden deck to glue the railings on? Wood is not a secure footing for glueing P/E to.
There is normally a small lip of plastic to simulate the edge of most decks. But wood is OK to glue the railings on to. Once the deck is installed it is as stable as plastic.
K-Tama
Joined: December 07, 2012
KitMaker: 33 posts
Model Shipwrights: 7 posts
Posted: Friday, January 03, 2014 - 08:28 AM UTC
Haha I might just post something of my build... But haven't ordered any kits yet, because I'm still recooperating from Christmas and New Years:)
Oh and one more quick question.. How would you keep the paint from melting away when you glue the PE in place? I paint mainly with Tamiya acrylics .. And normally glue my PE with super glue ... Thanks:)
Oh and one more quick question.. How would you keep the paint from melting away when you glue the PE in place? I paint mainly with Tamiya acrylics .. And normally glue my PE with super glue ... Thanks:)
warreni
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Model Shipwrights: 2,624 posts
Posted: Friday, January 03, 2014 - 04:51 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Haha I might just post something of my build... But haven't ordered any kits yet, because I'm still recooperating from Christmas and New Years:)
Oh and one more quick question.. How would you keep the paint from melting away when you glue the PE in place? I paint mainly with Tamiya acrylics .. And normally glue my PE with super glue ... Thanks:)
Super glue will not affect the Tamiya paint.
TimReynaga
Associate EditorJoined: May 03, 2006
KitMaker: 2,500 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,830 posts
Posted: Friday, January 03, 2014 - 06:34 PM UTC
Kaimana,
I agree with the advice already given - don't attach the photoetch rails to wood, because wood is not stable and will flex with changes in temperature and humidity, popping your rails loose.
I would add that if there is no edge lip of plastic, or if you make changes that remove the molded edge, you can add new lip with sheet plastic.
I did this with my Revell Olympia build; having sanded away the kit deck edge lip, I replaced it with Evergreen plastic strips and later added the rails on top of the new lip.
Best of luck with your Prinz Eugen!
I agree with the advice already given - don't attach the photoetch rails to wood, because wood is not stable and will flex with changes in temperature and humidity, popping your rails loose.
I would add that if there is no edge lip of plastic, or if you make changes that remove the molded edge, you can add new lip with sheet plastic.
I did this with my Revell Olympia build; having sanded away the kit deck edge lip, I replaced it with Evergreen plastic strips and later added the rails on top of the new lip.
Best of luck with your Prinz Eugen!
K-Tama
Joined: December 07, 2012
KitMaker: 33 posts
Model Shipwrights: 7 posts
Posted: Friday, January 03, 2014 - 11:31 PM UTC
Haha thanks Tim with all your input and excellent examples.. Nice job by the way with the Olympia:) I will take into consideration all your advice:) now anyone heard of Blue star admiral wood decks??? 
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Model Shipwrights: 833 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 05, 2014 - 05:14 AM UTC
That's what I thought. Thanks Tim.
RedDuster
Joined: March 01, 2010
KitMaker: 7,078 posts
Model Shipwrights: 6,649 posts
Posted: Monday, January 06, 2014 - 03:18 AM UTC
I have heard of them, and seen some for sale on that well known auction site, they don't however seem to have found their way into the mainstream online retailers yet as far as I can esee.
have not seen them in the wood, so can't comment further.
Si
have not seen them in the wood, so can't comment further.
Si
Quincy
Joined: October 29, 2008
KitMaker: 99 posts
Model Shipwrights: 97 posts
Posted: Friday, January 10, 2014 - 02:33 PM UTC
Also watch out for wooden decks that hide details and gives them that sunken in look, such as bollards , chocks, hatches, etc. You might have to replace or scratch build them to give them their proper appearance.
Bob Pink.
Bob Pink.
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