This is a supplemental build thread to document my trials and tribulations with the Trumpeter 1:350 RM Roma kit for the "Mighty Battleship" campaign just underway.
I'll be adding a Pontos wooden deck on the stern and using the Flyhawk super detail set to make the base kit pop...hopefully. For references I'll be using the Warship Pictoral #37 for the RM Roma facilitated by online sources of reference material
I've not built a battleship since I was little and certainly never one using photo-etch before.
Tonight I simply familiarized myself with the Flyhawk set and started to clean up a few pieces for step 11 in the instructions which appears to be the gyrostabalized sky-lookouts deck. So far the Flyhawk instructions seem ok, although they could be laid out better and perhaps are a little unclear in a few areas. I'll go slow and try to make sure I catch everything.
I will bounce around with subsections and weaponry to try and take a dent out of the 12 photo-etch sheets. I believe I read somewhere that not all the photo-etch is accounted for in the instructions, but can't recall for sure. By process of elimination I'll find out.
I plan on building a full hull model and I'm not overly concerned with 100% accuracy. I want to complete this model and not get mired down with so much detail that I risk failing to complete it in time. I'll paint the ship according to the colour plates in my reference book as I know the Trumpeter painting guide is off. I'll be duplicating the splinter camo, but without false bow and stern. The air recognition stripes look cool to me, so I'll add them as well. I haven't decided on whether to carry them all the way back to the breakwater or stop them before the first turret as indicated in a few online sources.
That's it in a nutshell. This first month may be slow going as we're in the process of some serious renovations on our house over the next 4-6 weeks. Model time may be sparse. I hope to provide a good build log and will do my best to document most of my work. Any and all advice is most welcome as I have little experience with a project of this nature.
I hope you will enjoy following along as much as I will enjoy sharing my efforts.
Go to modelshipwrights.com for the current dynamic site!
Hosted by Steve Joyce
RM Roma - Trumpeter 1:350
SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Monday, May 05, 2014 - 06:06 PM UTC
RussellE
#306
Joined: June 27, 2010
KitMaker: 3,959 posts
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Posted: Monday, May 05, 2014 - 09:47 PM UTC
Wow! 12 sheets of photo etch!
Watching with interest, Joseph! Will be good to see how the Roma builds up with all that AM added.
I agree-why get bogged down with accuracy? As long as it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck it must be a duck. We're here to have fun after all.
Watching with interest, Joseph! Will be good to see how the Roma builds up with all that AM added.
I agree-why get bogged down with accuracy? As long as it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck it must be a duck. We're here to have fun after all.
Cosimodo
#335
Joined: September 03, 2013
KitMaker: 1,808 posts
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Posted: Monday, May 05, 2014 - 10:58 PM UTC
Hi Joseph,
I will be following this. The Roma is the first ship I built. I stuck with the Trumpeter set and their photo-etched extras. Without much experience to call on it was a pretty straight forward build, with the instructions much better than the Dreadnought which I am currently battling with. Also it looks great with the candy stripes!
cheers
Michael
I will be following this. The Roma is the first ship I built. I stuck with the Trumpeter set and their photo-etched extras. Without much experience to call on it was a pretty straight forward build, with the instructions much better than the Dreadnought which I am currently battling with. Also it looks great with the candy stripes!
cheers
Michael
SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 06:16 AM UTC
Thanks Russell and Michael.
I have a question. Having never dealt with a splinter camo before on a ship are there any tips on how to mask for painting? My concern is how do I mask all the delicate photo-etch railings and such without risk of damage or to still get nice sharp edges? Is it better to paint as you go, subsection by subsection with all photo-etch attached, or do people add some etch after the main painting is complete?
Any advice or thoughts is appreciated.
I have a question. Having never dealt with a splinter camo before on a ship are there any tips on how to mask for painting? My concern is how do I mask all the delicate photo-etch railings and such without risk of damage or to still get nice sharp edges? Is it better to paint as you go, subsection by subsection with all photo-etch attached, or do people add some etch after the main painting is complete?
Any advice or thoughts is appreciated.
RedDuster
Joined: March 01, 2010
KitMaker: 7,078 posts
Model Shipwrights: 6,649 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 08:50 AM UTC
Hi joseph,
This is very much horses for courses. I tend mask and paint sub assemblies when dealing with straight edged camouflage schemes, then add the railings, and add the camouflage to the railings with a brush freehand.
Hope that helps.
Si
This is very much horses for courses. I tend mask and paint sub assemblies when dealing with straight edged camouflage schemes, then add the railings, and add the camouflage to the railings with a brush freehand.
Hope that helps.
Si
RussellE
#306
Joined: June 27, 2010
KitMaker: 3,959 posts
Model Shipwrights: 2,777 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 09:36 AM UTC
Hi Joseph 
I concur with Simon. There's no right or wrong way, although experience has shown me that it is best to leave the railings off til the final stages as my butter fingers tend to warp them beyond recognition.
For a splinter camouflage I would assemble the hull sans railings, and the main superstructure components sans railings. I would then dry fit the superstructure components to the hull and, using a sharp soft (2B) pencil very lightly mark the pattern on the vessel. Then you can lift the superstructure components off the hull and paint them separately, but still knowing that the pattern lines up between hull and superstructure.
You can then do final assembly later on with all your camouflage lining up. Then as Si says, add the railings. I would spray the railings before adding them, in whatever the dominant colour required for their location is, then apply the remaining camouflage colours with brush after addition.
Usually I'd spray the railings whilst still on the brass fret, masking off the remainder of the fret. But, do this toward the end of your build so as not to risk damage to other items on the fret. Of course if the railings require bending or folding, then I'd remove them from the fret and do that first, then spray them using masking tape to hold them.
Hope this helps and I haven't rambled on too much.
There are many ways to achieve the desired result and ultimately you'll find what works for you.
I concur with Simon. There's no right or wrong way, although experience has shown me that it is best to leave the railings off til the final stages as my butter fingers tend to warp them beyond recognition.
For a splinter camouflage I would assemble the hull sans railings, and the main superstructure components sans railings. I would then dry fit the superstructure components to the hull and, using a sharp soft (2B) pencil very lightly mark the pattern on the vessel. Then you can lift the superstructure components off the hull and paint them separately, but still knowing that the pattern lines up between hull and superstructure.
You can then do final assembly later on with all your camouflage lining up. Then as Si says, add the railings. I would spray the railings before adding them, in whatever the dominant colour required for their location is, then apply the remaining camouflage colours with brush after addition.
Usually I'd spray the railings whilst still on the brass fret, masking off the remainder of the fret. But, do this toward the end of your build so as not to risk damage to other items on the fret. Of course if the railings require bending or folding, then I'd remove them from the fret and do that first, then spray them using masking tape to hold them.
Hope this helps and I haven't rambled on too much.
There are many ways to achieve the desired result and ultimately you'll find what works for you.
SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 09:57 AM UTC
Thanks for the tips. You've both given me some ideas on how to proceed.
I'm going to try and focus on numerous subassemblies to get started. I was able to track down a lifecolor Italian Navy Paint Set (thanks Simon) so I will hold off doing anything hull related until it arrives.
There certainly is a large amount of photo-etch to get through. The kit has some flash to clean up here and there and some tricky attachment points to sand down that are located right on the upper lip of some of the superstructure and gun stations. If I'm not careful I will end up sanding away some of this detail.
I'm going to try and focus on numerous subassemblies to get started. I was able to track down a lifecolor Italian Navy Paint Set (thanks Simon) so I will hold off doing anything hull related until it arrives.
There certainly is a large amount of photo-etch to get through. The kit has some flash to clean up here and there and some tricky attachment points to sand down that are located right on the upper lip of some of the superstructure and gun stations. If I'm not careful I will end up sanding away some of this detail.
DanielMoscatelli
Joined: August 22, 2011
KitMaker: 998 posts
Model Shipwrights: 941 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 01:06 PM UTC
My congratulations friend Joseph . Your select ace a beautiful ship!!! One of 3 class (Littorio) Brother of the (Vittorio Veneto) and of the (Italia) (ex-Littorio) ....... his great fault was the lack of radars!!!! Probably this way there had detected " Dornier Do 217 " and his anti tanks "Fritz X" It does very a little time the remains of East were ship
Some day I wish construct a Littorio class!!!
Cheers Daniel
JJ1973
#345
Joined: August 22, 2011
KitMaker: 1,835 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,832 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 06:10 PM UTC
Hi Joseph,
very interesting ship, and even more interesting add-ons, I am very curious about the Flyhawk kit and how this will turn out. Extremely difficult to get those in Germany, so if have no experience with Flyhawk, still trying to get one (for the Trumpy QE that is in my case). I will be closely following your build!
As for the painting questions you asked, I fully agree with what already was said. I would like to add two experiences of mine. Firstly, looking at the splinter camouflage the Roma is sporting on some pictures, I would start with the superstructure. Leave painting the camouflage on the hull to the end. As was said, the lines have to match, so once you have painted your camouflage to the hull, you are doomed to follow those lines up on the superstructure and you may end up at parts of the superstructure that really look odd. If you start with the superstructure, you can pick fix points, e.g. guns, bridge wings, ladders... along which the camouflage lines run, and than you extend them down onto the hull. If you end up on a different part of the hull than you originally planned, it will hardly be spotted. If you instead start with the hull and, working upwards, 'miss' e.g. one of the main turrets, it will be obvious.
For straight lines extending over various areas of superstructure and hull, I attached a thin line to a pair of 'helping hands' and lined it up with a bright light, so that the line was projected onto the model. This gives you a straight line that is not impacted by the angle you are looking at it and smoothly follows bend and uneven parts. You can than mark along the projected line with a pencil as a reference for your masking.
Overall, I tend to assemble very small subgroups and paint them. The bigger the sub-assembly, the greater the danger of breaking something or overpainting areas. But essentially, there is nor wrong way, I've seen it been doing completely different with excellent results...
Good luck for your build, looking forward to follow your blog!
Jan
very interesting ship, and even more interesting add-ons, I am very curious about the Flyhawk kit and how this will turn out. Extremely difficult to get those in Germany, so if have no experience with Flyhawk, still trying to get one (for the Trumpy QE that is in my case). I will be closely following your build!
As for the painting questions you asked, I fully agree with what already was said. I would like to add two experiences of mine. Firstly, looking at the splinter camouflage the Roma is sporting on some pictures, I would start with the superstructure. Leave painting the camouflage on the hull to the end. As was said, the lines have to match, so once you have painted your camouflage to the hull, you are doomed to follow those lines up on the superstructure and you may end up at parts of the superstructure that really look odd. If you start with the superstructure, you can pick fix points, e.g. guns, bridge wings, ladders... along which the camouflage lines run, and than you extend them down onto the hull. If you end up on a different part of the hull than you originally planned, it will hardly be spotted. If you instead start with the hull and, working upwards, 'miss' e.g. one of the main turrets, it will be obvious.
For straight lines extending over various areas of superstructure and hull, I attached a thin line to a pair of 'helping hands' and lined it up with a bright light, so that the line was projected onto the model. This gives you a straight line that is not impacted by the angle you are looking at it and smoothly follows bend and uneven parts. You can than mark along the projected line with a pencil as a reference for your masking.
Overall, I tend to assemble very small subgroups and paint them. The bigger the sub-assembly, the greater the danger of breaking something or overpainting areas. But essentially, there is nor wrong way, I've seen it been doing completely different with excellent results...
Good luck for your build, looking forward to follow your blog!
Jan
Cosimodo
#335
Joined: September 03, 2013
KitMaker: 1,808 posts
Model Shipwrights: 871 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 08:50 PM UTC
Hi Joseph,
I agree with the others about doing this in section by section. I painted and masked all the separate elements always checking the matchup was as close as I could get.
For the railings I didn't bother since you can't really notice the difference in the grays. I just sprayed them on the fret.
As all the others have said, you will work out a system that works for you.
And a last thought, the splinter camo was easier than painting red and white stripes over an uneven deck surface and dealing with the bleed.
cheers
Michael
I agree with the others about doing this in section by section. I painted and masked all the separate elements always checking the matchup was as close as I could get.
For the railings I didn't bother since you can't really notice the difference in the grays. I just sprayed them on the fret.
As all the others have said, you will work out a system that works for you.
And a last thought, the splinter camo was easier than painting red and white stripes over an uneven deck surface and dealing with the bleed.
cheers
Michael
blaster76
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Model Shipwrights: 3,509 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 09:00 PM UTC
Joeseph
Kenny Loop makes a masking set for this kit which includes stipes for the bow. Gator Masks. I have a set for mine that one of these decasdes I'll get around to building
Kenny Loop makes a masking set for this kit which includes stipes for the bow. Gator Masks. I have a set for mine that one of these decasdes I'll get around to building
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
KitMaker: 3,897 posts
Model Shipwrights: 3,301 posts
KitMaker: 3,897 posts
Model Shipwrights: 3,301 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 08, 2014 - 06:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Joseph,
I agree with the others about doing this in section by section. I painted and masked all the separate elements always checking the matchup was as close as I could get.
For the railings I didn't bother since you can't really notice the difference in the grays. I just sprayed them on the fret.
As all the others have said, you will work out a system that works for you.
And a last thought, the splinter camo was easier than painting red and white stripes over an uneven deck surface and dealing with the bleed.
cheers
Michael
Yes, the Italian "please don't shoot or drop a bomb, I'm a friend" stripes on the bow sort of wipes out the effect of the grey camo Always wondered if it was Ferrari red they used
They must have been more afraid of their friends than of their enemies
Had me wondering when I built the Italeri MAS MTB. SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Friday, May 09, 2014 - 06:24 AM UTC
Thank you all for the comments and suggestions on painting the camo. I'll definitely put them to use. It seems I've picked a popular ship so I'll do my best to provide a good build log and do her justice.
I just received the Lifecolor Regia Marina Italiana paint set today. I'm all set to move forward with the build and have no further purchases planned.
Last night was spent removing various parts from the sprues and cleaning them up while sitting with my spouse watching TV. She enjoys when I spend time with her rather than just seeing the back of my head in my hobby room as she walks by.
I hope to post some progress pictures after the weekend.
I just received the Lifecolor Regia Marina Italiana paint set today. I'm all set to move forward with the build and have no further purchases planned.
Last night was spent removing various parts from the sprues and cleaning them up while sitting with my spouse watching TV. She enjoys when I spend time with her rather than just seeing the back of my head in my hobby room as she walks by.
I hope to post some progress pictures after the weekend.
SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 09:07 AM UTC
I continue to prep pieces for the Roma, but I've put the actual build on hold for a few weeks due to house renovations. We've lived in our house for 13 years now and over the last few years we've finally started making it our own. It's a 1973's bungalow in serious need of upgrading.
I'm converting an old cold storage room downstairs previously used by the last owners as a wine making/storage area into my hobby room. This is long overdue and I can't wait to finally have a space dedicated to my hobby with all the bells and whistles.
I was using the room to store my over 400 kits (yes I have a model buying problem
). The models and paint/tools/supplies have been removed, the room gutted and construction begun. I plan on purchasing a paint spray booth and the need to vent the room is the biggest hurdle so far as there is no window. After that it will be shelves galore and a nice work area to finally start working on multiple models at once regardless of the construction phase.
I'm pretty pumped. So until things are complete I'll hold off updating the build log. It's going to be a nightmare getting everything back into the room, but at least then my hobby and work area will be manageable moving forward!
Does anyone have any opinions on a spray booth to purchase or thoughts on one you own?
Joseph
I'm converting an old cold storage room downstairs previously used by the last owners as a wine making/storage area into my hobby room. This is long overdue and I can't wait to finally have a space dedicated to my hobby with all the bells and whistles.
I was using the room to store my over 400 kits (yes I have a model buying problem
). The models and paint/tools/supplies have been removed, the room gutted and construction begun. I plan on purchasing a paint spray booth and the need to vent the room is the biggest hurdle so far as there is no window. After that it will be shelves galore and a nice work area to finally start working on multiple models at once regardless of the construction phase.I'm pretty pumped. So until things are complete I'll hold off updating the build log. It's going to be a nightmare getting everything back into the room, but at least then my hobby and work area will be manageable moving forward!
Does anyone have any opinions on a spray booth to purchase or thoughts on one you own?
Joseph
RussellE
#306
Joined: June 27, 2010
KitMaker: 3,959 posts
Model Shipwrights: 2,777 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 09:58 AM UTC
There's nothing better than a good hobby room, Joseph.
We're about to tear down our old garage and build a new 'man-cave', which will be bigger and better than before...
Good luck with the reno's hope you're up and running again soon!
We're about to tear down our old garage and build a new 'man-cave', which will be bigger and better than before...
Good luck with the reno's hope you're up and running again soon!
SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 05:43 AM UTC
A brief non-update
The model room renovation should be complete today, so if all goes according to plan I'll begin moving my kits and supplies back in and getting organized by the weekend. I have not purchased a spray booth yet, but will conduct my painting outside in the meantime.
I've decided on a few more small purchases for Roma consisting of another reference book, brass 20mm, 37mm and 90mm barrels for the various AA guns. These should arrive in the next two weeks.
Tonight's plan of action is getting the 90mm gun casements prepped and glued together. It looks like there may be a small amount of filling required to clean up the seams as well.
The rest of the week will be spent going over the Flyhawk photo-etch in detail to try and figure out where everything goes. My understanding is some steps are not represented in the instructions and not everything is clearly marked as to location. I want to make sure I have all the hatches, armoured windows and such accounted for before I start sanding detail off the kit parts. I may make some copies of the instructions to facilitate the planning of the photo-etch placement.
This weekend I'd like to tackle joining the hull together for a full hull build. I intend on mounting the ship on a homemade wooden base so that will require drilling holes through the hull for the brass pedestal mounts. Lot's to get moving on.
I'll document everything with pictures so nothing will be missed for the build log. I can't wait to get this build going and in a matter of days I'll begin making actual progress.
Thanks for following...
The model room renovation should be complete today, so if all goes according to plan I'll begin moving my kits and supplies back in and getting organized by the weekend. I have not purchased a spray booth yet, but will conduct my painting outside in the meantime.
I've decided on a few more small purchases for Roma consisting of another reference book, brass 20mm, 37mm and 90mm barrels for the various AA guns. These should arrive in the next two weeks.
Tonight's plan of action is getting the 90mm gun casements prepped and glued together. It looks like there may be a small amount of filling required to clean up the seams as well.
The rest of the week will be spent going over the Flyhawk photo-etch in detail to try and figure out where everything goes. My understanding is some steps are not represented in the instructions and not everything is clearly marked as to location. I want to make sure I have all the hatches, armoured windows and such accounted for before I start sanding detail off the kit parts. I may make some copies of the instructions to facilitate the planning of the photo-etch placement.
This weekend I'd like to tackle joining the hull together for a full hull build. I intend on mounting the ship on a homemade wooden base so that will require drilling holes through the hull for the brass pedestal mounts. Lot's to get moving on.
I'll document everything with pictures so nothing will be missed for the build log. I can't wait to get this build going and in a matter of days I'll begin making actual progress.
Thanks for following...
RussellE
#306
Joined: June 27, 2010
KitMaker: 3,959 posts
Model Shipwrights: 2,777 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 18, 2014 - 11:15 PM UTC
Hi Joseph 
That's a good non-update!
Looking forward to seeing some pics up soon. Good luck with those hull halves, may they be more or less spot on.
PS. no sign of the catapult yet
That's a good non-update!
Looking forward to seeing some pics up soon. Good luck with those hull halves, may they be more or less spot on.
PS. no sign of the catapult yet
SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Monday, June 23, 2014 - 07:02 AM UTC
Best laid plans and all that...
The moving of all my kits, paint and tools is complete. The model room is full, if somewhat disorganized at the moment. I didn't make any progress on the Roma unfortunately.
I did find my brass pedestals for the display base so drilling holes in the hull and sealing the nuts is the first order of business before I can join the hull halves.
I need to get a stool or drafting chair to sit comfortably while working at the higher countertop. I wanted them to be a little higher so I could stand/sit as required.
I'm off wood shopping for the base after work. There is a lumber store here that advertises teak, oak, cherry and other specialty finishing pieces. I hope to come home with a few options as I have numerous ships to build and they will all need bases at some point.
Progress pictures/updates will follow shortly. Once I get the holes and attachments sorted out for the hull this build will start in earnest as I have some serious catching up to do!
The moving of all my kits, paint and tools is complete. The model room is full, if somewhat disorganized at the moment. I didn't make any progress on the Roma unfortunately.
I did find my brass pedestals for the display base so drilling holes in the hull and sealing the nuts is the first order of business before I can join the hull halves.
I need to get a stool or drafting chair to sit comfortably while working at the higher countertop. I wanted them to be a little higher so I could stand/sit as required.
I'm off wood shopping for the base after work. There is a lumber store here that advertises teak, oak, cherry and other specialty finishing pieces. I hope to come home with a few options as I have numerous ships to build and they will all need bases at some point.
Progress pictures/updates will follow shortly. Once I get the holes and attachments sorted out for the hull this build will start in earnest as I have some serious catching up to do!
SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Friday, July 18, 2014 - 03:20 AM UTC
Progress has been slow since the weather here has been beautiful of late, and it's been hard to stay indoors and model.
I have a question. I'd like to drill out all the scuttles and model them as open, but wonder if that would detract from the look of the finished model being a full hull build?
I also ordered some plans online which will help when I tackle the photo-etch. There are a few discrepancies between the model and what the plans indicate so I'll have to decide how much extra work I want to put in to improve the accuracy of the finished model. I mentioned before I don't crave 100% accuracy, but some prominent features of the ship seem to be missing or interpreted differently by Trumpeter. The Flyhawk detail set also misses some of these details which is disappointing. I'm going to look through all my photo-etch to see if I have anything that can be used to replicate some missing detail. I'll definitely go into more detail when posting pictures showing what I mean.
On another note. The plunge has finally been taken into getting a spray booth which will mean I can paint year round now. It should arrive within 2-3 weeks hopefully. This was a major expense, but hopefully will be justified by the number of kits I can now complete. When it arrives I'll post a few pictures of the model room for those interested in seeing my new work area.
Catch you soon with some pictures.
I have a question. I'd like to drill out all the scuttles and model them as open, but wonder if that would detract from the look of the finished model being a full hull build?
I also ordered some plans online which will help when I tackle the photo-etch. There are a few discrepancies between the model and what the plans indicate so I'll have to decide how much extra work I want to put in to improve the accuracy of the finished model. I mentioned before I don't crave 100% accuracy, but some prominent features of the ship seem to be missing or interpreted differently by Trumpeter. The Flyhawk detail set also misses some of these details which is disappointing. I'm going to look through all my photo-etch to see if I have anything that can be used to replicate some missing detail. I'll definitely go into more detail when posting pictures showing what I mean.
On another note. The plunge has finally been taken into getting a spray booth which will mean I can paint year round now. It should arrive within 2-3 weeks hopefully. This was a major expense, but hopefully will be justified by the number of kits I can now complete. When it arrives I'll post a few pictures of the model room for those interested in seeing my new work area.
Catch you soon with some pictures.
dlgn25
Vendor
Joined: June 17, 2004
KitMaker: 398 posts
Model Shipwrights: 292 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 06:49 AM UTC
[quote]very interesting ship, and even more interesting add-ons, I am very curious about the Flyhawk kit and how this will turn out. Extremely difficult to get those in Germany, so if have no experience with Flyhawk, still trying to get one (for the Trumpy QE that is in my case). I will be closely following your build!
We stock Flyhawk, and can certainly ship to you in Germany!
We stock Flyhawk, and can certainly ship to you in Germany!
Littorio
Joined: September 15, 2004
KitMaker: 4,728 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,080 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 07:56 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I also ordered some plans online which will help when I tackle the photo-etch. There are a few discrepancies between the model and what the plans indicate so I'll have to decide how much extra work I want to put in to improve the accuracy of the finished model. I mentioned before I don't crave 100% accuracy, but some prominent features of the ship seem to be missing or interpreted differently by Trumpeter. The Flyhawk detail set also misses some of these details which is disappointing. I'm going to look through all my photo-etch to see if I have anything that can be used to replicate some missing detail. I'll definitely go into more detail when posting pictures showing what I mean.
Catch you soon with some pictures.
Joseph,
I'd recommend getting THIS book on the Littorio class if you haven't already. It describes and shows via drawings and some photos' the difference between the class, example is the cat walk between the bridge and the for'mast, this was different on all three ships.
SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 01:23 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Joseph,
I'd recommend getting THIS book on the Littorio class if you haven't already. It describes and shows via drawings and some photos' the difference between the class, example is the cat walk between the bridge and the for'mast, this was different on all three ships.
Thanks for the recommendation Luciano. I ordered the book online from one of our local bookstore chains. I was able to use the remaining balance of some gift cards to pay for it and it comes with free shipping. Can't wait to add another reference book to the library. Thanks again, as I may be interested in modelling one of Roma's sister ships at some point.
The help and suggestions for this current build has been great and is most appreciated.
Littorio
Joined: September 15, 2004
KitMaker: 4,728 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,080 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 02:04 PM UTC
Not a problem Joseph, I have this kit plus the Mk.1 design DX pack and G-model brass screws (propellers) sitting in the stash waiting for all the minnows (Sub's and small surface craft) to clear the bench
RussellE
#306
Joined: June 27, 2010
KitMaker: 3,959 posts
Model Shipwrights: 2,777 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 20, 2014 - 09:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Progress has been slow since the weather here has been beautiful of late, and it's been hard to stay indoors and model.
I have a question. I'd like to drill out all the scuttles and model them as open, but wonder if that would detract from the look of the finished model being a full hull build?
I also ordered some plans online which will help when I tackle the photo-etch. There are a few discrepancies between the model and what the plans indicate so I'll have to decide how much extra work I want to put in to improve the accuracy of the finished model. I mentioned before I don't crave 100% accuracy, but some prominent features of the ship seem to be missing or interpreted differently by Trumpeter. The Flyhawk detail set also misses some of these details which is disappointing. I'm going to look through all my photo-etch to see if I have anything that can be used to replicate some missing detail. I'll definitely go into more detail when posting pictures showing what I mean.
On another note. The plunge has finally been taken into getting a spray booth which will mean I can paint year round now. It should arrive within 2-3 weeks hopefully. This was a major expense, but hopefully will be justified by the number of kits I can now complete. When it arrives I'll post a few pictures of the model room for those interested in seeing my new work area.
Catch you soon with some pictures.
Hi Joseph!
I had the same dilemma with the Prinz Eugen and also a fleeting thought of drilling the port holes on the KGV. In the end my sanity got the better of me and I decided against it
ultimately it's a personal choice though.What size spray booth did you get? I've looked at a few recently but they all are under 500mm long. The result being I'm not able to fit a ship hull in
Russ
SqzMyLemon
Joined: December 10, 2007
KitMaker: 66 posts
Model Shipwrights: 60 posts
Posted: Monday, July 21, 2014 - 04:19 AM UTC
I made some good progress this weekend, finally! The camera needs to be charged up, but some pictures will follow in another update.
I had already decided to drill out all the portholes, so I got started. Trumpeter's porthole layout does not match the plans and the stern area leaves something to be desired. There is a boom of some sort that is shown in photos in place above the stern portholes, Trumpeter would have you install the boom directly over the portholes. The portholes are all level with each other in plans and photos, but for some reason the kit has shifted the elevation of the last portion of portholes. The separation for some of the stern portholes is off as well. There are ten portholes that should be paired up in sets of two, but the kit spreads them out in no particular order or grouping. I'm going to see if a correction might be doable. This would require I fill the already indented portholes on the kit and measure out and drill where the new ones should go.
Is epoxy putty the way to go for a repair of this nature. I need to make sure the fill is hard enough to drill through if required?
Another issue is one scuttle that is on the kit hull near the second turret should actually be an access hatch with a rung of steps going down the side to the end of another boom. Trumpeter would have you add this boom horizontally, but plans and reference photos show the boom is positioned at an angle on the hull, the higher portion facing the bow and the lower end at the bottom of the rung of steps near the missing access hatch. I'll attempt to fix this as well. Hopefully it won't cause me too much trouble.
I've started to drill out the scuttles as well. Using a circular punch set I started attaching the scuttle covers to the hull in an open position flush against the hull. I can't tell how the overall effect will look yet, but once painted and a few washes added I think it will add some interest and extra detail.
I also drilled the holes through the hull for the brass pedestal mounts. Everything lines up when attaching the ship to the base. Whew! All that remains is sanding the wooden base and staining it. I'll add a nameplate later.
Test fitting the two halves of the hull shows everything lines up nicely. I read reviews that this kit was one of Trumpeter's best fitting hulls. I don't think I'll have much problem aligning everything. With a little putty it should look great after sanding. I won't attach the two hull halves until I have all my porthole issues fix though, as it's so much easier to work on right now separated.
I think that covers progress to date. Pictures will follow now that I have the camera charged. I may be a little OCD, but I'm enjoying finally getting started on this project. I may be creating a lot of extra work for myself, but I really want to push my skills and put together a model that may have some wow factor.
Thanks for following...
I had already decided to drill out all the portholes, so I got started. Trumpeter's porthole layout does not match the plans and the stern area leaves something to be desired. There is a boom of some sort that is shown in photos in place above the stern portholes, Trumpeter would have you install the boom directly over the portholes. The portholes are all level with each other in plans and photos, but for some reason the kit has shifted the elevation of the last portion of portholes. The separation for some of the stern portholes is off as well. There are ten portholes that should be paired up in sets of two, but the kit spreads them out in no particular order or grouping. I'm going to see if a correction might be doable. This would require I fill the already indented portholes on the kit and measure out and drill where the new ones should go.
Is epoxy putty the way to go for a repair of this nature. I need to make sure the fill is hard enough to drill through if required?
Another issue is one scuttle that is on the kit hull near the second turret should actually be an access hatch with a rung of steps going down the side to the end of another boom. Trumpeter would have you add this boom horizontally, but plans and reference photos show the boom is positioned at an angle on the hull, the higher portion facing the bow and the lower end at the bottom of the rung of steps near the missing access hatch. I'll attempt to fix this as well. Hopefully it won't cause me too much trouble.
I've started to drill out the scuttles as well. Using a circular punch set I started attaching the scuttle covers to the hull in an open position flush against the hull. I can't tell how the overall effect will look yet, but once painted and a few washes added I think it will add some interest and extra detail.
I also drilled the holes through the hull for the brass pedestal mounts. Everything lines up when attaching the ship to the base. Whew! All that remains is sanding the wooden base and staining it. I'll add a nameplate later.
Test fitting the two halves of the hull shows everything lines up nicely. I read reviews that this kit was one of Trumpeter's best fitting hulls. I don't think I'll have much problem aligning everything. With a little putty it should look great after sanding. I won't attach the two hull halves until I have all my porthole issues fix though, as it's so much easier to work on right now separated.
I think that covers progress to date. Pictures will follow now that I have the camera charged. I may be a little OCD, but I'm enjoying finally getting started on this project. I may be creating a lot of extra work for myself, but I really want to push my skills and put together a model that may have some wow factor.
Thanks for following...
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