Hey Everyone,

Since I am a glutton for punishment and since the IJN Akigumo is complete I decided that I didn't have enough to build with just the FUJIMI IJN Shokaku and the Very Fire USS Missouri so I decided to start the Fine Molds 1/350 IJN Destroyer Ayanami.

Ayanami (綾波 "Twilled Waves") [1] was the eleventh of twenty-four Fubuki-class destroyers, built for the Imperial Japanese Navy following World War I. When introduced into services, these ships were the most powerful destroyers in the world.[2] They served as first-line destroyers through the 1930s, and remained formidable weapons systems well into the Pacific War.

Ayanami's final mission, on November 14–15, 1942, was that of the Second Naval Battle of Guadalcanal. There, she was attached to a scouting force under the command of Rear Admiral Shintarō Hashimoto in the light cruiser Sendai. When American Admiral Willis A. Lee's Task Force 64 was spotted near Savo Island, Hashimoto took his ships clockwise around the island, but sent Ayanami alone in the opposite direction sweeping for enemy vessels. When Lee's ships were located, the order to attack was given, and as such, Ayanami became one of three prongs in the initial attack (Along with Hashimoto's group, and another group led by Rear Admiral Susumu Kimura in the light cruiser Nagara).

Ayanami was first sighted by the American destroyer USS Walke, but the light cruiser Nagara was located soon after and the four destroyers' attentions shifted to it. Torpedo and shellfire from Ayanami, Nagara, and Uranami sank two of the four destroyers (USS Preston and USS Walke), mortally wounded USS Benham (which was scuttled after the battle), and severely damaged USS Gwin, causing heavy American losses in the first phase of the battle.

Lee's USS Washington then sighted Ayanami and shelled her. The Japanese destroyer sustained critical damage and 27 of her crew were killed; she fired one shell, which missed Washington. Thirty surviving crew members including Commander Sakuma escaped in a boat to Guadalcanal; the remainder were taken off by Uranami. At the same time Washington crippled and sank the battleship Kirishima. Later in the night Uranami scuttled the abandoned Ayanami with a single torpedo, and she sank soon after 02:00. Her wreck remains at the bottom of Ironbottom Sound.

Name: Ayanami

Ordered: 1923 Fiscal Year

Builder: Fujinagata Shipyards

Yard number: Destroyer No. 45

Laid down: 20 January 1928

Launched: 5 October 1929

Commissioned: 30 April 1930

Struck: 15 December 1942

Fate: Sunk by gunfire from USS Washington, 15 November 1942

General characteristics

Class and type: Fubuki-class destroyer

Displacement:

1,750 long tons (1,780 t) standard
2,050 long tons (2,080 t) re-built

Length:

111.96 m (367.3 ft) pp
115.3 m (378 ft) waterline
118.41 m (388.5 ft) overall

Beam: 10.4 m (34 ft 1 in)

Draft: 3.2 m (10 ft 6 in)

Propulsion:

4 × Kampon type boilers
2 × Kampon Type Ro geared turbines
2 × shafts at 50,000 ihp (37,000 kW)

Speed: 38 knots (44 mph; 70 km/h)

Range: 5,000 nmi (9,300 km) at 14 knots (26 km/h)

Complement: 219

Armament:

6 × Type 3 127 mm 50 caliber naval guns (3×2)
up to 22 × Type 96 25 mm AT/AA Guns
up to 10 × 13 mm AA guns
9 × 610 mm (24 in) torpedo tubes
36 × depth charges

Service record

Operations:

Second Sino-Japanese War
Battle of Malaya
Battle of Midway
Indian Ocean raid
Solomon Islands campaign

The intent behind this build is to create my first dynamic diorama. I intend to display the ship dodging shell fire and launching her torpedoes. It will be fun.

The Fine Mold kit comes packed with a lot of parts. Unfortunately there is no upgrade set for this kit so I figured I could use the Infini Upgrade kit for the IJN Kagero. I' pretty sure that I wont be able to use all of it but I think a good portion will work for this kit.

I also ordered the Kagero 3D book for the Fubuki Class Destroyer as a reference.

So with all that, here we go.

Here is the box art



The parts in the box



Fine Molds also left the keel (not sure the technical name) like Aoshima does for their kits. However Fine Molds provides tabs and slot and the fit is great.



After that came adding the upper hull supports and the first PE parts taken from a North Star IJN Water Tight Door sheet.



They are a little oversized for destroyer but will be difficult to see tucked underneath the forward decking.

The rest of the supports.



The upper hull came in two parts but fit like a glove.



So far the fit is amazing and I am pretty happy with it.

I do have a question for the group. The deck has the anti-slip pattern molded on, would it be prudent to remove this? Would it really be visible on a 1/350 scale ship?

Well as alluded to, the next step is working on the deck which will have to wait a bit until I get the Kagero Upgrade kit.

Anyway, that is the start of the build. I hope you like it.

As always, comments, suggestions and criticism are always welcome and encouraged.

thanks for stopping by.

Dave

Dave,

Nice start. It is nice when the hull pieces fit together nicely without having to deal with a lot of gaps or seams.

As for the grating, it may not show up in photos but it should be visible to the naked eye, even at 1/350. Unless it is out of scale I would leave it alone.

Mark

David: I concur with Mark on the molded o area you mentioned. Leave it alone.

I will be following this build very carefully as I do with all destroyers which are my main interest.

It appears that it can also be built as a water lined model, and the construction of the hull is similar to the Tamiya Kagero.

I detest the expression "game changer" but if that ever applied to anything it would be the Fubuki Class of destroyers. They changed everyone's thinking world wide.

Are you using Sasabo Arsenal Gray as your paint?

Gents,

Thanks for stopping by.

Mark, I am going to leave the non-slip alone and just roll with what is molded.

Chuck, after finishing the Tamiya Kagero I am a little hooked on these destroyers myself, I have a few in the stash.

According to the Combined Fleet Table of Movement, the IJN Oboro was built and commissioned at Sasebo. I have not found any information about refits at any other location so I think I will paint her Sasebo grey. I am going to try and get some Tru-Color paints and try that line on this model. So far Tru-Color looks promising.

Dave

Yes, I understand that Tru Color paints are very good from an air brush, but not so hot for any hand painting or hand painting as a means of touch up.

That is exactly why I asked about what you intended to use. Sasebo seems to be safe in absence of other data. Sasabo is my least favorite of the big three yard colors, as it is the darkest. My favorite is Kure which falls somewhere in the middle, dark to light. Regardless of which is or is not my favorite though I try to get the best data available when choosing a color. Often though it seems like the only reliable data available is the builder's yard, which seems top be the case with Oboro.

Keep building and I will keep on following very closely

Watching with interest Dave

Chuck - Have not heard too much about Tru-Colors, good to know about the issue with brushing and touching up. Will keep that in mind. I do like their range of colors though and hope that they become a good substitute for Tamiya Acrylics.

Russell - great to have you aboard mate!

Dave

Hi Dave,

I too will be watching your build with interest! I've always liked the Fubuki "Special Type" destroyers, and from what I've seen the Fine Molds folks have given us a fine rendition with this Ayanami. I look forward to watching your build come together!

Looks an interesting beast Dave,

Plastic looks quality too, will be along for the ride.

Cheers

Si

Tim / Simon,

Great to have you along for the ride.

Dave

David:

Just wanted to pass on something I ran across today.I am building Shimakaze, and needed some lower hull paint. Off to the auto supply store to purchase some DupliColor red primer, the one I discussed with Simon on his destroyer build. Seems that Auto Zone and DupliColor had a falling out, and they have now switched over to Rustoleum. Not wanting to go all the way into town to Pep Boys, I purchased what they had. For my money the Rustoleum is very, very close to that cocoa brown all those instructions seem to call for, and very close to that which you used on the Kagero conversion. At $6.50 for a big can you cannot beat the price, and I sure do like the way it looks on my Shimakaze.

I assume you used Tamiya Hull Red on the Kagero conversion?

Chuck,

I do use Tamiya Hull Red for my IJN builds. I will give that Rustoleum a shot and see how it goes. I really appreciate the suggestion.

thanks

Dave

I am going to have to try those primers. Tamiya primer is nice but expensive.

Mark

Mark: Make sure you get the right one. Do not get filler primer for use on plastic. I have used it on some 3D printed and metal models, and it works fine, but I think it goes on too thick on plastic, and frankly makes a mess.

David: Forgot to ask if this model comes with a waterline plate?

Chuck,

Thanks for the heads up.

Mark

Chuck,

Yes it does come with a waterline plate.

Dave

Thanks David. While I really prefer to build a model full hull,my house is small, and my display space very limited, so doing everything full hull for me is out of the question. I make exceptions though and my current project Shimakaze is one of them.

What I have done though is found a suitable sized case at Hobby Lobby in which a 1/350 water lined destroyer fits very nicely as long as the prototype ship was 420' or less. In other words it would not be big enough for Burke, but just right for a WWII destroyer. This allows me to store a model, once complete, and rotate them in my limited space, much like my wife changes the decorations on the mantle with each changing season.

Chuck,

I understand the challenge. I too have a space issue. Haven't figured it out yet but will need to here shortly.


One of the guys at my model club hangs his on the wall like a pictures. Not a bad idea but I haven't seen what it looks like with a capital ship.

Which Shimkaze kit are you building?


Dave

Hasagawa, and I really think I should have gone for the Fugimi. I may still at some later date

Chuck,

Nice, I will have the Hasegawa version in stock today. Looking to order some of the Inifini Upgrade kits here within the next few days.

Dave

Watch out for what appears to be a scarring on the port side of the lower hull. Did not notice it at all until I applied the primer/lower hull color. It is about a inch and a half long and is at the point on the port side that would be just under the bridge location.

Dave,

even though I'm joining in late - very nice start, and I'm looking forward following your build!!

I'm in and watching!

Cheers,
Jan

Chuck, thanks for the advise, will keep that in mind

Jan, Great to have you along for the ride.

OK everyone, so a change in plans. I reread the history and the Table of Movement for the IJN Destroyer Oboro. It was assigned to Carrier Division 5 in the winter of 1941 but was detached to support the invasion of Guam There it did not assist in escorting Carrier Division 5 to Pearl Harbor.

Since this would make my diorama historically inaccurate I am shifting gears and will build the kit as its original ship, the IJN Ayanami.


I will build mostly out of the box. Will source some metal barrels for the main guns but my target is to use this for my first dynamic diorama. I intend to display her as she is launching her torpedoes against the US Fleet at the Second Naval Battle of Guadalcanal, just before she was sunk by the USS Washington.

Since I am such a detail nerd I am going to go back and fix the history of the ship in the initial post.

Well now that it is mainly out of the box I am going to get more going.


thanks for stopping in

Dave

So with this change, you have gone from the paint selection frying pan into the fire, and right beside me. Move over

Your's, and my about to be started Amatsukaze, were both built in private yards so what color paint is the question?