Hi Guys

This is not a musem build; but a pool play thing for me and the little girl
I will add some nice brass details to try them; sorta pre marketing trials (don't want them falling off)

Anyway; the images are on my new forums; I set these up so i can post and edit as much as i want; and people can ask about barrels coming up or just ask about if i can make this or that
(might keep a lot of it off other boards like this)
the Snowberry build is here

That sounds like an interesting project Steve.

Will the weight of the battery cells and motor not make her lay too deep in the water (or sink)? I guess all the plastic alone makes her weight quite heavy (in scale)?

I had it in the bathtub; floats great; needs more weigth than those batteries
I just updated the post with the rudder and motor in now

Steve, just wondering, is it possible for you to keep up a list of total parts needed and the estimated cost for the whole project (money and time) ?
I'm very interested in trying this out myself , but only if the total cost allows me to try and goof around with servo's and stuff...

The other question I've got is about the engine. How can you be sure on forehand that the engine can produce enough bhp to make her go ahead and has enough power at a low rpm to cruise and not pull up her forecastle like a speedboat?

How will you make sure the water doesn't come up through the propshaft up to the engine? I'm sure the engine will be located under the waterlevel? So then the law of communicating barrels would make your lower hull the perfect empty barrel to be filled?

Oh, one more thing i'l thinking of:
Are you sure the rudder will do the job and make her turn?
It looks rather small in comparison to the streamline of the vessel?

The propshaft has a low running clearance; so water will have a tough time entering the hull; same as the rudder; but the rudder is higher and the top of the shaft support is above the waterline

As for total cost; it will be quite cheap; i have spent $1.25 on the tube so far; the motor came from a motorized car radio arial; it had a worm gear which I removed

Just completed another floatation test (thisis not the first one)

The rudder and propshaft is nice and watertight
I add a huge amount of ballast to get her down to the waterline; ship can carry large amounts of weight

other than the speed control all the radio gear was in; and the big 24 cell battery pack

Hi Steve!

You're doing a great job, even with your "not a museum quality" model statement!!

One thing that I would like to add, now that you have sorted out the buoancy level of this "wet-boat", is for you to don't forget that a relatively fair amount of plastic is going to be on top of that hull!!

That should make the floatation line submerge... or not?

Skipper

Hi Skipper

That huge chunk of brass weighs way more that all the spru's with the parts still attached; I'd estimate the sprus would be 4lbs tops; the brass was at least 10

Steve

There's lots of useful tips there that I will file away until my Flower is ready for fitting out. I particularly liked the brass bearings and I will be keeping a lookout for your brass replacement components (the U-boot bits are already on my wishlist).

All of the Flower R/C projects I have seen have required significant ballast. One technique that interested me was housing the ballast in a watertight kitchen container. This means that you can add or subtract ballast as necessary and the ballast won't shift if the Flower heels too far.

David

Seems everything is running smooth so far Steve, keep it up, you're really making others jealous with your funproject .. (me for sure).
Just another question:
I'm not a mathematics guy, but isn't there any formula or rule which you have to follow concerning weight of ballast, position of the ballast (especially height of the ballast in relation to total height of the model) to prevent your model fom tipping over or rolling heavily when making a high speed or emergency turn?

I"be veen searching the web for pics of other r/c snowberrys, but I can't find any showing where to put ballast...

Do you have to put everything on the floor of the hull in the middle of the vessel, or on the floor attached to the sides to prevent heavy rolling?

One more thing, can you tell me after ballasting, how much centimeters are left from waterline to top of the lowest part of the hull? (that 'll be somewhere near the railing on the sides I guess? (just to know how much wave she can take?)

Ok, that's it, I admit I want one too!!

Just about all the ballast is within a space from the lowest point in the hull to 1/4" of the water line; so stablity will not be an issue; I feel a 45degree roll and she will self correct
I can't test this yet as the portholes are still not in; imight make solid brass port holes yet (this thinking about it)

Here's a link to a site.

http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/contents.htm

SB

Looks like a really great project Steve. Have you done the U-boat yet. I'm just curious how that will go. That surely will be much more difficult if she is to totally submerge

'm going to get a little more into this before the Uboat

I just finished the floatation foam install around the battery pack; next I'll inject some expando foam to really fix/seal and stop her from sinking when the little girl rams me from underwater

I added the floatation foam yesterday; this will stop her from sinking and will stop the battery from moving etc

updated with new pics

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Just click me!

Cheers,

Garry

How's this build progressing? The link to Steves build is down and there's been nowt since february

Hi Shaun!

I really can't give you any info... Steve hasn't appeared around for some time...

Skipper

I've been snowed with barrel orders; plus I'm building 2 new cnc machines
Maybe this winter I'll have another go at it
Thanks for asking


the new lathe