I first tried this method on my Nimitz. Took all 3 pieces of deck (flight on an AC...... Main on a BB) On the flight deck I added some strips to the underside, nothing on the BB. I put plenty of TUBE GLUE on the joint, put the pieces together turned them upside down and placed book on them. With the AC because it is totally flat, I just left it for a couple of days. Then filled in gaps using the Mr Finisher (easier to me than regular putty).. With the Bismarck, left it sitting for maybe 45 minutes, to an hour then flipped it over and took 4 hemostats and clamped one at the four seam points..balanced it on a cup and left it for a day. The seams at this point are fairly minimal. After I mount deck onto hull, I'm going to use the Mr Finisher to fix them a little better. That Mr Finisher is a gerat investment. I think I paid 6 or 7 dollars for the 500 grain bottle. I use it for everything and after a year and a half still have 3/4 of it left "just a little dab will do ya".

Thanks Steve I will have to give this a go. After reading another thread about the Arizona I took down my model of her. I never noticed before how really bad the deck seams are. The coating of dust that is now has really shows them off. I will have to try your technique, or one the other Steve mentioned earlier, to get the seams tighter on the Bismarck.

I may also have to look into the Mr Finisher, and see what it's going for out here.

Thanks again.

The key is tube glue. It is thick, sticky and slow drying. The thicknes fills in the gaps, the stickyness holds the parts fairly firmly in place and the slow drying allows for some correction.

Hi Steve!

This is one of the things I am thinking of trying (Mr. Finisher).
Thanks for the tip

Skipper

Howdy Steve,

Thx for the deck gluing tips. They sound like they work for you.
It's really advantageous how the different glues act differently on both varying surfaces, and under mixed applications.
I have personally practised my techniques with thick CA glue and have had good luck with it so far. It's gotten to where I can anticipate when it will 'activate', and when I will run out of set time.....every once in a while I get caught, but for the most part it has helped me speed up my modeling.
I also use the {thick} CA mixed with talc for seam filling, work's dandy. I guess we all have our favourite's......
Now, I just wish I could get the proper 'hang' of Tenax.....sheeeeeesh, I think the bottle has something against me!

Oh, and Mr. Surfacer is fantastic stuff. Been using it for a while now. You can also thin it down a little for creating different textures....does a dandy non-skid surface facsimile.

regards,

Tread.

I had the same problem with tenax....one bottle ......and never again. I've used both types of CA glue and am pleased with the middle level stuff for applying brass PE you get an extra second or two to get the part correct.