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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
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New North Carolina in the house
blaster76
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Posted: Saturday, November 19, 2005 - 01:24 PM UTC
Well my NC arrived today safe and sound. Got it from MOdelcity on ebay for $51 plus a $17 shipping cost still puts this at a steal. Thanks to John's warning, I'll try spreading out the lower (RED) section of the hull rather than cutting the spreaders on the top (GRAY) section of the hull. Hopefully that tremendous Lion's Roar set will hit soon. Did a pre-order on it., but I looked at all the detail in the basic kit, and Trumpeter has deinitely made a pretty super-detailed kit,
jRatz
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Posted: Saturday, November 19, 2005 - 01:49 PM UTC
Took my hull to the club meeting today & gave a blow-by-blow description to two guys who just got the NC -- told them to try the "spread-lower" scheme.

Have fun !!!!

John
blaster76
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Posted: Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 11:28 AM UTC
John, I posted this same question on the warship net. I want to go with a natural deck color on my NC.. Do you know of a paint scheme that would support this. Give me the colors in Model Master enamels as I have about a half dozen or so shades of grey and prefer using them
jRatz
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Posted: Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 02:47 PM UTC
Steve-
None of my refs mention that scheme, but I think the NC now stationed at Wilmington carries it. I hate to admit I haven't made it down there for a photo run yet -- twice scheduled & twice OBE ....
John
warlock0322
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Posted: Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 04:52 PM UTC
I also started mine last week and I am working on the the spread method. Looks like a fine and fun journey I am about to undertake.

Sorry Steve I can't help with the paint question as I am trying ( operative word there) to use the scheme that is on the box. Never really tried that kind of scheme before so what the heck right??

I do have one question though.
Where is the boot stripe supposed to go???
I mean do you put it on the top, bottom, or center it over of the seam line between the 2 hull pieces??

All the other ships I have done had a little raise detail line along the hull as a referance mark. I have looked for one on this one and have not seen anything..

I live only about an hour from the ship and will try to get some info for ya. Because like John I have planned a trip to her but have yet to get down to see her too
MartinJQuinn
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Posted: Monday, November 21, 2005 - 03:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

John, I posted this same question on the warship net. I want to go with a natural deck color on my NC.. Do you know of a paint scheme that would support this. Give me the colors in Model Master enamels as I have about a half dozen or so shades of grey and prefer using them


For the era the kit represents, the NC would have had a blue deck. I know that's not what you want to do, so I say don't. It's your model, build it how you like. You can always do in in Ms22 (Navy Blue/Haze Gray) with wood decks. It won't pass the rivet counter review, but again, it's your model. Besides, it will look nice with the Ms22 and wood decks!

Before the "accurate" paints came out, I was using a MM enamel as Haze Gray. Of course, for the life of me I can't remember what color that is now (since I'm at work). I'll look through my paint stock tonight and let you know what it is - it's a good match. I used that paint on this (old!) build of the Matchbox Indianapolis

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/ca/ca-35/700-mq/ca35-04.jpg
blaster76
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Posted: Monday, November 21, 2005 - 10:16 AM UTC
Martinn, I got a response from the NC expert. He advised that the pre-war NC had regular wood decks but the kit would require major rework to back date. But then remembered at end of war she did go back to wood with the MS 22 scheme as you recommended. So all I need now is a visual or definition of what that is. and what is painted what
jRatz
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Posted: Monday, November 21, 2005 - 01:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Martinn, I got a response from the NC expert. He advised that the pre-war NC had regular wood decks but the kit would require major rework to back date. But then remembered at end of war she did go back to wood with the MS 22 scheme as you recommended. So all I need now is a visual or definition of what that is. and what is painted what


Steve
I read that thread over on MWS ... some strong opinions ... I'm still trying to figure out why you'd have to replace the whole main deck unless it's because it doesn't show the wood grain sufficiently or something ...

I think current NC is in the post-war scheme & I have a few photos from a guidebook that may be of use -- give me a couple days to scan 'em in ... got lots going on right now ...

John
MartinJQuinn
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Posted: Monday, November 21, 2005 - 02:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Martinn, I got a response from the NC expert. He advised that the pre-war NC had regular wood decks but the kit would require major rework to back date. But then remembered at end of war she did go back to wood with the MS 22 scheme as you recommended. So all I need now is a visual or definition of what that is. and what is painted what


Ms22 was the false horizon scheme. It's the Haze Gray over Navy blue. For my Indianapolis, I used MM FS 35237 - Medium Gray - in place of the Haze Gray.

Here is what NC looked like in Ms22
MartinJQuinn
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Posted: Monday, November 21, 2005 - 02:05 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Steve
I read that thread over on MWS ... some strong opinions ... I'm still trying to figure out why you'd have to replace the whole main deck unless it's because it doesn't show the wood grain sufficiently or something ...John


John,

I think they were talking about what you'd have to do if you wanted to backdate the kit to pre/early war config....

jRatz
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Posted: Tuesday, November 22, 2005 - 03:33 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I think they were talking about what you'd have to do if you wanted to backdate the kit to pre/early war config....



Martin, understand that but part of discussion seemed to be that you had to remove the planking & replace it to represent the planking ...

Anyway,
Got the Lions Roar update today -- from AA Models -- a bit more expoensive than Great Models offer, but they got it here first.

I have not done detail analysis.
-- I think the barrels & PE for the 5" & 16" are great.
-- I think the anchor chain may be too big for 1/350.
-- The 4-blade & 5-blade props solve an obvious problem, but I didn't measure scale diameter yet.
-- The rest of the PE looks OK but I have not sat down & compared the quantity/quality with plans/photos or the GMM & WEM sets. I think that WEM & GMM have better radars & fire control, both have more ladders.
-- Instructions are good to excellent.

In short, definitely worth a look and could do a creditable job on its own, but may need the GMM set, or WEM set to meet full potential.

Not an expert,
John
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