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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
US Navy, surface and sub surface colours
PanzerEd
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: January 14, 2006
KitMaker: 432 posts
Model Shipwrights: 9 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 21, 2006 - 12:11 AM UTC
A couple of years ago I built a fairly decent model of the USS Spruance. The problem was with the colouring. In some reference photos that I got hold of the grey seemed quite dull and flat but in others the grey most certainly had a light blue tint and seemed to have a semi-glossy appearance. I must admit that the blue tint was more prominent when the photo was taken in bright sunny conditions. This tint was apparent in other modern US surface ship photos. I realise the tint may just have been some sort of reflection from the sea but if I build someth9ing similar I want to get the colour correct.

I normally use tamiya acrylics for all of my modelling work.

Can anyone give me some tips on obtaining the correct shade of blue for the Modern US Navy surface ships please?

I also have a Los Angeles class attack submarine waiting patiently in its box. Again, in some reference photos that I have the bottom half of the hull and the front "dome" of the hull are a burnt red/red brown colour. In others the hull is totally black.

Can anyone tell me why there are the two colour schemes? Is it purely dependent on the shipyard where they were built or the area of operations?

I blame Tom Clancy and Patrick Robinson for their fantastic books. They keep putting these ideas in my head to build Modern US Navy ships.

Last but not least, does the Trumpeter USS Nimitz need an update kit to bring it up 2006?

When will a manufacturer bring out a complete airwing for these modern carriers so the modeller can chose which aircraft to have on deck?

Hope to here from all you experts soon.

Thanks everyone!!!
Cob
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Washington, United States
Joined: May 23, 2002
KitMaker: 275 posts
Model Shipwrights: 64 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 21, 2006 - 03:36 AM UTC
Hi Desmond!
I can help with the subs. The red is an anti-fouling paint used below the waterline. You correctly noted that sometimes the hull is red/black and sometimes it is just black. I would say that the red/black scheme is much more typical than the all black. I served on 6 boats from 1978 - 2005, none had the all black paint job nor do I recall seeing one in drydock. The only reason I can think of for painting it black is that the painters didn't want to mask it off. Camoflage below the waterline wouldn't really be a consideration.

Hope this helps
Rob
PanzerEd
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: January 14, 2006
KitMaker: 432 posts
Model Shipwrights: 9 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 21, 2006 - 04:45 PM UTC
Rob,

Thank you very much for your advice. I have a huge amount of respect for you and your colleagues serving past and present.

The model in question is the USS Hampton by Dragon, 1/350. I'm sure you know of it.

I will send a few pics when it is done.

Take care
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West Virginia, United States
Joined: June 17, 2004
KitMaker: 398 posts
Model Shipwrights: 292 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 21, 2006 - 05:35 PM UTC
Hi Desmond,

The current USN Haze Gray is available, accurately-matched, in our Colourcoats enamels, as is the modern USN Antifouling Red:

M 03, Modern USN Haze Gray;
M 06, Modern USN Antifouling Red.

You'll find these and over 400 other accurate ship, aircraft, and armour colours on our secure website. We have no minimum order on paints, and ship worldwide.

Cheers,
John Snyder
The Token Yank
USS BAINBRIDGE (DLGN-25), 1966-70
White Ensign Models
http://WhiteEnsignModels.com
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,610 posts
Model Shipwrights: 566 posts
Posted: Monday, January 23, 2006 - 01:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Rob,

The model in question is the USS Hampton by Dragon, 1/350. I'm sure you know of it.

I will send a few pics when it is done.

Take care



Desmond, if you're going to make an improved Los Angeles Class, like the Hampton, there are a number of things in that kit that ought to be corrected to make it a bit more accurate. My son spent a total of 4 years on Columbus (SSN 762) and Columbus (SSN 764) and had a close friend on the Hampton. I got quite a bit of help from them which helped my when I did my build for the DDD campaign.

I have some shots in my gallery of the Boise and If you're not too far along into your build, I can provide some of the modifications you may want to make.

Tom
PanzerEd
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: January 14, 2006
KitMaker: 432 posts
Model Shipwrights: 9 posts
Posted: Monday, January 23, 2006 - 05:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Rob,

The model in question is the USS Hampton by Dragon, 1/350. I'm sure you know of it.

I will send a few pics when it is done.

Take care



Desmond, if you're going to make an improved Los Angeles Class, like the Hampton, there are a number of things in that kit that ought to be corrected to make it a bit more accurate. My son spent a total of 4 years on Columbus (SSN 762) and Columbus (SSN 764) and had a close friend on the Hampton. I got quite a bit of help from them which helped my when I did my build for the DDD campaign.

I have some shots in my gallery of the Boise and If you're not too far along into your build, I can provide some of the modifications you may want to make.

Tom



Thanks Tom. The sub is still in its box, not even started yet. I am under going a house move over the next few weeks so it will probably be a while before anything gets done.

I will keep you posted.
skipper
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Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: February 28, 2002
KitMaker: 5,182 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4,070 posts
Posted: Monday, January 23, 2006 - 05:03 PM UTC
Hi Desmond

You could see the DDD posts and check for the modifications needed to make it correct
If I remember correctly they were described along the process...
And maybe you can wait a little longer to make it during DDD2?

Skipper
PanzerEd
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: January 14, 2006
KitMaker: 432 posts
Model Shipwrights: 9 posts
Posted: Monday, November 13, 2006 - 02:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Desmond

You could see the DDD posts and check for the modifications needed to make it correct
If I remember correctly they were described along the process...
And maybe you can wait a little longer to make it during DDD2?

Skipper



thanks skipper,

my uss hampton is still in the box. i'm sure it will surface (pardon the pun) sometime soon.

des
blaster76
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Texas, United States
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Model Shipwrights: 3,509 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 12:51 AM UTC
I guess it falls on me to answer the USS Nimitz question. yes, you will have to get an update kit to bring the Nimitz closer to this time period. The Tom's PE set will help do most of the visual stuff with some extra PE pieces and decals. DOn't think it will be as reent as 2006, but you certainly can move it from the late 70's to more recent times. As to airwings. Trumpeter has put out 350 scale Hornets, Super Hornets and Tomcats, so you can update your airwing quite easily as well. There was a rumor going around a year or so ago that Trumpeter was going to do a later version Nimitz class with the bulbous bow, but I think that passed by.
thathaway3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: September 10, 2004
KitMaker: 1,610 posts
Model Shipwrights: 566 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 - 09:08 PM UTC

Quoted Text



my uss hampton is still in the box. i'm sure it will surface (pardon the pun) sometime soon.

des




Des, I've started back on my entry for DDD2, which is the USS Columbus. SSN 762. I got a LOT of help from my son who spent two years aboard Columbus on fixing the things about the Hampton kit which aren't exactly correct. This time around I'm taking pictures of each of the fixes as I'm doing them, and I should be posting the photos before too long.

If the USS Hampton (one of my son's best friends served on her) decides to "surface" before I get the photos posted, give me a head's up and I'll get them to you. It's simple stuff to fix for the most part.

Tom
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