Good Afternoon All,
I finally got the 1/35 PBR and am getting ready to start on it this week, time permitting. To jazz it up a bit I got the Verlinden M2 .50 cal set. This is the first time I have ever worked with resin or PE kits before and I thought it best to start small. Is there anything special I should know about working with resin? Tips, Tricks, Pitfalls etc? The PE part gives me no pause (I'm a B level micro-min solder tech among other things) but for some reason the sight of that tan resin seems a little daunting. Thanks in advance.

Doc

Ahoy, Doc!

Congratulations on your new aquisition, mate! Working with resin is NO big deal, my friend...I actually think that it's an easier medium to work in than plastic injection, repairs are easier to make, and for the most part, resin is sturdier than plastic, which for my heavy hands, is a blessing at times!

The same techniques that apply to plastic modeling, will apply to resin, except for the adhesive, and IMHO, you should have both a regular and thick consistency CA glue at hand, as you will find uses for each along the way...and remember, resin dust is not too kind to the lungs and nasal passages, so if you're gonna raise a dust cloud while you're working, wear a dustmask!
Above all, mate, have FUN! Don't let the resin intimidate you, my friend...please keep us posted on your progress, and remember, we're here for any questions that you may have along your journey!
Keep Modeling,
~Gunny

Ahoy there "DocDavis"

And another tips:
- To remove the parts from the resin pouring blocks, saw them, and then using a wet sandpaper over a hard flat surface make gentle circle movements to both sides, or if you prefer eight figures (it will prvent the remaining pouring block to get uneven). Keep weting the sandpaper, since it avoids dust to get airborn (at least most of it).
- Check for air bubbles . they can be filled with Milliput or superglue, depending on the size.
- After all this, wash all the parts with a dish washer to remove finger tips and releasing agent grease.
- Built subassemblies (including the PE parts)
- Prime with Tamiya Grey Primer (my favorite)
- Paint and weather as if they were plastic

Hope this helps
Skipper

Thanks Guys.
I don't have any thick CA glue around the workshop. I can see where it would come in mighty handy though so I'll run out this weekend and pick some up.

Regards,
Doc

Pit falls
Pun intended. A lot of pits if it was not poured well. Older kits really have this problem. The sawing and sandng has been well covered. I didn't see anyone talk about how brittle they are. Our polystyrene kits that we love so much are made out of plastic with a bit of give and take. They are a bit "bendy". Not so resin. It will snap on you in a heartbeat. If one of the parts is bent take some almost hot water. A little hotter than you would want to bathe in) and put the part in there for a bit .then gently and I do mean gently slowly bend it back into the expected shape.

Also, make sure to clean the pieces well to remove any release agents before painting. Another good primer is Dupicolor automotive primer in a spray can. I prefer it because of the fan nozzle gives a good, even coat.

Kenny