I am beginning to build a smal scale model of the USS Constitution. The sails are modeled under a full breeze and I wish to model it at anchor or dry dock. Would the sails be tied up to the yards or stored below decks? On the mizzenmast would the gaff halyard be up or secured to the lower boom or halyard(?)

The copper plating on the hull, would it be bright, dull or blue-grey patin?

Ahoy Jim!

Aye, the Constitution, eh?
To answer yer question, mate, take a look at this image of the beauty, dockside...I do believe that you have a fair amount of rigging to display, instead of full sail, my friend!



And if you are going to model her as being at sea for any length of time, then the copper plating would most definitely not be bright...It's been a while since I built my last Constitution, but when I did, I painted her up as you see her here, nice and bright and shiny!



So really, my friend, the choice is yours, depending on what you really want to display...whatever you decide, please keep us updated, show us some pic's, definitely!
Keep Modeling,
~Gunny

Hi, I am glad to see someone doing a tall ship!
As to whether the sails would be furled or off depends on how long the stay in port is and what sort of maintenance if any was occurring. Removing the sails saves a considerable amount of rigging (the plans included with your model probably show a limited amount anyway due to the small scale) and allows an unobstructed view of your work. The big thing to remember with furled sails and naked yards is that the sails (yards) are lowered.

The lowered position is just above the “top” (fighting top) about level with the top mast cap for the fore and main.

The same for the top gallant fore and main, nearly to the crosstrees about level with the top mast cap for.

The lower mast fore, main, crossjack, gaff and boom are positioned as pictured above posted by Gunny. (a picture is worth a thousand words and a glossary too sometimes!)

Notice there are no top gallant masts or top yards in the picture.

The copper took a beating and lots of weathering- so unless it brand new…

For a detailed view of how to set up rigging try this:

http://www.victorymodel.com/Images/Photographs/Drawings/Drawings.htm

Welcome to a terrific subject area, Jim. Redshirt provides some good answers, and there are some more here: http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/ship/sail-sails.htm, although they don't have photos.

The Constitution site itself, at http://www.ussconstitution.navy.mil/ has plenty of current info about the ship as she appears today. (best viewed with MS Internet Explorer, I guess; my Firefox presentation is miserable)

The Lady Washington is a reproduction brig maintained out here on the Washington coast by some folks who seriously believe in living history, and they have a ton of photos up on their site at http://ladywashington.org/

And you can find lively discussions about modelling the ship at the FineScaleModeler ships forum online.

On the other hand, I suppose we should get our terminology straight - when you say "small scale" how small are you talking about?





Best regards,
Rick

Thanks for the picture Gunny, that answered a couple of questions.

About the copper plating does it remain shiny or dull being in salt water? I know the copper flashing on buildings will turn blue with age.

Hey Jim, no problem, mate...the copper plate would definitely take on the "blue-green" colorization, though a bit darker from exposure to the harsh salt waters. This photo is of a lab created exposure of saltwater to copper...


What scale and manufacturer is your model?
~Gunny

Hey all,

I've always been a little intimidated of the sailing ships. Lots of work...plus no huge guns ....LOL!!

Yes but if you build the right one there are a hundred cannon plus.... that should be enough gun for you

Years ago I built the small Revell kit of the Constitution and it turned out fine. Then I had to move back from Germany so I put her in the community kitchen and hoped she would find a good home. I next tried the large version of the Revell kit and after a while totally lost interest as well as moving a couple of times ended up forgetting the main part of the ship to which I had progressed to having all the hull done and the masts up. I hvae never ventured back.

Recently I purchased a couple of small (18 INCH LONG) wooden ships on ebay of the Victory andSolRoyal. They are quite nice and reasonably priced. Have fun with the kit, but I am in the "I hate rigging" club for life.

Gunny,

It is a Monogram 1/96 scale. I was thinking about the larger Revell, but someone who loves me bought it at a garage sale for $5, so I feel that I owe her to do the kit and then do the larger Cutty Sark.

I have an uncle who build the plank on plank ships and made a comment about trying it some day. Until I found out he does one or two a year and spends a couple of hundred for each. I think SWMBO would have me walking the plank if I spent that much right now!

The copper plate looks almost black and not the dull copper or blue patine I thought!

Understand completely, mate, wise choice, wise choice indeed...and it will be a good practice ship for you if you plan on doing the Cutty Sark (another fine model, for sure)




Jim, I think that you should try out a wooden kit, mate, as it is quite a rewarding side to ship modeling...and there are quite a few kits available that won't cost you a car payment, but the time frame is about right, unless you're independantly off and can build 24-7... I started in this hobby looong ago with a Henry Morgan Whaler wooden ship kit, and since then, I always have one in the making on the bench in some stage of construction...they're just beautiful, and true works of art when complete!




Right again, mate, but remember, this is a laboratory recreation to saltwater on fresh copper...there are alot of variables with specialty metals, and just how they are going to react, weather, and in the end, look when weathered...the copper in that photo that I posted almost looks like a blued gun barrel, IMHO...

~Gunny

The 1/96th scale is the BIG Constitution. It is a fun build until you get to the rigging. All those block and tackle threadings (shudder). As to the copper, I personally would go with a copper paint simply for aestetical beauty. It stands out and really enhances. You may want to hit it with some rattlecan dullcoat after you paint it on. I am the first to tell you how beautiful those wooden ships with all the rigging are, but I bought mine already built... Oh and for only $5 well you can't beat that period. You will definitly get more than moneys worth out of it. Seems the Revell version runs $50+ or $100+ dependent on if it is Revell USA or Revell Germany.

Blaster,
I guess I am wrong about the size, maybe it is the Cutty Sark that is 1/96. This Constitution is about 15-16" when done.

I am going to try Tamiya's copper and gunmetal mixes to see if I can get it a little older than new copper plating, then maybe a green filter followed by the dull coat of the whole ship. I am thinking about a dry brush of steam engine black or grime over the black on the ship for an aged grey-black look. Anyone try this before?

What is the difference between the USA and the German kits? Besides the price?

You probably have the 1:196 scale kit. Now that one will be fun. You don't have to do all the block and tackle stuff and I believe the ratlines (those triangle pieces they use to climb up the masts) are alerady done for you. The difference btwn the Revell USA and Germany...your guess is as good as mine. ONe might have plastic sails as opposed to cloth, or metal guns vs plastic

When you use the grimy black thin it way out. Like 5 parts of thinner to 1 part of paint....maybe even s high as 10 parts thinner to 1 of paint experiment on something other than the kit until you find a good ratio. on my tanks, I use something like 20 to 1 ratio just to put some mess on them then add other weathering after...I dont do anythng to my ships