I was wondering how do people deal with gaps where the deck meets the hull. I am just strategy to build ships and am building 17th century ships so I find it difficult to use putty when there is wooden "ribbing" on the inner hull. any suggestions?

Ahoy, mate...well, I've built a few wooden ship models in my career, and I've basically used standard woodworking methods in all of the ships construction...and most fit issue's can be solved with careful sanding and (if necessary) light trimming.

Dry fit your parts carefully before gluing, for sure...I have also used wood filler from time to time, as well as epoxy-style putty formulations, with varied results, in varied situations...

Also, are you using any clamping methods while gluing?

Hmm.... never did a wood ship but I may be able to help.

First piece of advice would be to eliminate the gap itself. This can be done by “jointing” the wood before gluing.
In this case I would recommend shaving the edge of the piece with a hobby knife then sand with fine sandpaper. The idea is the create a smooth flat surface for the pieces to join at.

Next when you do need to fill a gap in use wood filler. Now you could use the fancy stuff they sell at stores but I’ve always felt they charge to much so I mix my own. Just sand down a piece of scrap, mix a little wood glue (probably what ever you’re useing will work.) To make the stuff stick together and stick it down in there.

Hope it helps some.

sorry folks I should have been more clear: the models are plastic not wood.

Well, in THAT case....

Basically, mate, eliminate the cause of the gap, if possible (ie. poor fitting parts, etc)...but if you absolutely can't make the parts fit (you have to be careful when trimming away interior details...) I have used normal fillers in spots, or even an epoxy filler/putty (Tamiya makes an excellent choice for both. IMO) can help to "re-capture" some lost details, and can be cut and sanded itself.

What kit is giving you problems, or are you scratchbuilding?

A quick and easy method would be to buy some of that Testors widow and canopy glue, run a bead of it along your edge and gap and then take a moistened triangular shaped sponge that you can buy in the health and beauty section of say..Wal-Mart and run it along your bead. This will push it into the gap and smooth it at the same time. The glue dries clear and you can prime it.

Plus you can wipe away the excess and not worry about sanding away any detail as a result of putty.

works for me.

Great tip Steve.

Gator

I used stretched sprue a lot. Find some close to the appropriate thickness and apply a drop of Testors liquid glue (I use a hypodermic with a real small needle). It melts the piece in and looks kind of like a weld bead...which by the way is the way most guys make weld beads on their tanks. You can scrape a sharp hobby knife over it after it dries to smooth it out. Doesn't goof up too much of the wood ribbing detail.