"Build Session 4 closed-Keep Modeling!"

Gentlemen-
To be able to continue to work on the hull and the placing the super structures, it seemed necessary to paint the decks and mask them off. As I plan to paint my Leipzig with a Baltic scheme it was necessary to consider doing the aerial recon signs on bow and stern at this point, too.
I am pretty sure that most of you have a good idea, how to do this, but of cause there may be one or the other beginner here to wonder how it may be done. Now this is the way I did it:
Before any painting all builds - plastic or resin alike – need cleaning to remove grease, fingerprints or mould residue. These agents prevent proper paint coat adhesion. Alcohol, white spirit, window cleaner or just good old soapy water will deal with them. For me usually warm soap water does the job nicely.
After washing I first prepped the deck by application of ALCLAD II grey primer. I like it, because it makes scratches, dents and pin holes visible for repair and can be used as micro filler, too. However, best of all is that any follow up coats of paint can be applied only after 30 minutes of drying!
Next the recon signs in sequence:



FIG1: Following the rule of “Always paint light colours first and darker colours in sequence”, I put down the basic shape of the flag in white first. After thorough drying I sanded the masking edges flat and scarped a bit with the Olfa knife to “break up” the lines. The centre piece of the flag was then masked off.
In FIG2 you see the red (Mr. Hobby No. 68 with a drop of black) for the background colour added. Again thorough drying time was needed before progressing to FIG3. Here you see the red masked off. As well, you can see on the right edge of the tape that I started to remove the underlying coats of paint. This has 2 reasons: A. red colour always shines through. B. The build-up of colour coats may visibly interfere with the planking and may show edges.
After finishing the removal, I added another coat of ALCLAD II primer to level with the previous primer. As can be seen in FIG4, I finally painted the whole weather deck using WEMs fine colour coat “TEAK” (WEMCC C01) and removed the mask.






The red coat is still shiny, but after weathering the deck and putting down a protective layer of flat clear coat, the shine will be gone.
Next move will be masking off the deck and going on to add the next deck level

That’s it for tonight.

Cheers,
Guido

PS.: I almost forgot! The recon signs are now finished! Yes, the swastikas are missing! Now here's the point: The display of Nazi symbols is forbidden in Germany. I would not be able to display my model outside of my model room without having to fear confiscation and a steep fine. Of cause I could cover them up for show presentation, but what would be the point of adding them in the first place?
PPS.: I actually do concur to the general ban of presentation of Nazi symbols out of private hands in Germany.

Nice tutorial Guido!!
I really appreciate your effort, because, has you say, there are a great number of new guys and I am sure they are following these build blogs with interest!
Also your Leipzig is starting to get some color good!
Keep up!


Rui

Great work as always, Guido! I think it's a shame that there is no provision for the showing of swastikas on something that is a matter of history. I can understand the idea of the general display, but since you are creating an item that is part of history, it is not a political statement or belief. It's too bad history can't be presented in its complete form. Is it possible to maybe cut out a round piece of paper in the shape of the white field that can be placed over the swastika for display in Germany? But then removed when you wish to display the model on the internet or at a show outside of Germany since you do a lot of travelling?

(Dear moderators! I know this is slippery ground and should actually not be discussed here. In any case I would like to shortly address the issue. Should you choose to delete it, it is OK with me!)

Hi, Dade!
Indeed there is controversy about the issue, even here in Germany and a lot amongst modellers.
Fact is that showing Nazi symbols is allowed when documenting the historical events. The display then must be officially inspected and it must be made sure there is no chance of history distortion or even glorification of that regime. So in officially sanctioned documentations, movies, in museums, and history books these symbols are allowed. In privately organised shows and displays they are not.
Even today, with all the knowledge about the history and the events, even here in Germany, there are political groups that deny the holocaust and the evil that was spread at the time of National Socialism. As long as this is so, I think here in Germany we should pursue this course of banning private display of Nazi symbols without any exception. Of cause, I would leave such decisions for other countries in their own hands.
Now when we look at my model it is very easy to imagine what part is missing in the picture. As such the omission doesn't distort the historical picture beyond recognition.
For display outside of Germany, which would basically be the IPMS UK show in Telford, I rather explain the omission to the observer and at the same time make it a statement for my political position on the issue of private display of Nazi symbols.

Thank you for understanding.
Cheers,
Guido.

PS.: If there is further need for discussion, I would like everybody to contact me privately. Please kindly refrain from discussing this issue any further in this blog. This blog is about building a model ship, not about politics. Thank you!

Hi Guido,

I'm really enjoying your build. The level of finesse you constantly show, and the dedication to detail in documenting every step is turning this build into one fine tutorial.

thank you,

Frank

Hi Guido,

Thanks for the very interesting response and the detailed explanation. I don't think of this as a political discussion as you are sharing information that will be very useful if any of us who live outside of Germany should ever travel there and want to enter a model show with an item that may have had a swastika on it. It is good that you have shared your knowledge publicly because it may save many people from finding out about such laws the hard way (nobody wants their model confiscated).

Please accept my apologies as it was never meant to be a political discussion, but one of sharing knowledge ad curiosity. No more from me.

Hi, Dade!
No problem, what so ever!
...just wanted to make sure this topic doesn't highjack my blog!

Cheers, mate!
Guido

Hi Guido (and Dade - for this issue)

Although not a moderator, I am one of the Judges.
I think that the swastika discussion is not a deviation of the build blog, because it's a detail that makes part of the model, and Guido explained why it is not there.
Without further considerations and discussions - and has Guido has said, and Dade also said (in another tread) this place (modelshipwrights) is a place for model related discussions - not political discussions.

Rui

PS: I think that you both managed a potential highly flammable issue as gentleman

Welcome back, Guido, I missed your brilliant blog submissions.

Peter F

Great progress, great blog....I keep getting new ideas and tips from your build, love the painting mini-tutorial, cheers!

Hi Guido - I've been away for a while, so I'm just catching up on the group's progress. Great work on Leipzig. Nice crisp painting and the details on the turrets really add a lot. Thanks, too, for the explanation of the recognition paint.

Barry

Sorry, gentlemen!
…another disappointing month for you.

Thanks to all of you, who so frequently check my blog and your nice comments!

Having had to extend my business travel far into October, I had no chance to proceed this or other projects. Now that my departure for the IPMS UK Telford meeting is is but 2 weeks from today, I have to spend every free minute to catch up with the obligations in the group build for the show. I am certain you will get to see many pictures of the results and appreciate this effort. Unfortunately there are no points to score. At least my SIG and I will make another pass at that "Best Foreign Display" Award again!

It seems that my next progress will be made well in the second half of next month, but I'll try to give you something special by then. (Remember I said that I try!)

I hope to see all/many of you at the ScaleModelWorld next month!

Cheers,
Guido

That's business, Guido - good luck with that, we all need it, and also that's why it takes a year to complete this project, we're not halfway through yet!

Looking forward to seeing you at Telford, and all my German friends - win the sig? - No problem!

Cheers,

Peter F

Guido any planned update for this month ?? Saw your Gambelers display at Telford unfortunatley could not see you around I was only there for the Saturday but was very impressed with the display. Only one bad thing for me was the hight of the stand and could not see the top part of the diplay without the help of a tall freind unlike the Big gent on the other SIG stand behind yours

Session 6 closed~Keep Modeling!!

Carracho!
I missed the deadline!


Oh well, then it's going to be a bigger update for December!
Guido

Gentlemen!

It’s been a while! Job and real life are far from easy these days and would not allow a lot of modelling. On the other hand there were a lot of modelling commitments to be kept these last 3 months: The Scale Model World (Telford) and print publication deadlines sure kept me busy this year on top of all the fuzz on the j-o-b – thing. To make up for my long absence I wanted to bring an extensive “how to” in-detail. So this in going to be lengthy! Sit down, have a tea(coffee/cocoa) and a cookie!

The following represents the limited view and opinion of the author of this blog. There is no need to freak out or feel attacked or feel insulted: It is how I see things and what I feel looks good or not. You may see and feel things differently and you may even find the result of my work plain ugly. However neither you nor I are right … or wrong for that matter. There is no wrong or right in art.

“How to make water” has been a dominant topic on this and other pages this year. Of cause it is of very common interest and there are as many ways to make water as there are modellers.
When looking at many of the methods around it seems that a whole lot of modellers are looking for a way to make their seascape as fast as and with as little commotion as possible. One can understand the notion: The seascape is meant to present a waterlined ship at the centre of the attention. As long as such a seascape does not distract from the ship it is OK. I use various techniques like that too. In consequence we get to see a lot of ship models displayed in good weather conditions and at anchor. Once in a while we get to see models displayed a model displayed in a “stormy sea”, which consists of a frenzy of chop-chop with waves piling up out of an otherwise dead-even sea level: It may look great, if done well and if you have the chance of forcing perspective through photos. To me in full view it looks mostly odd. …, but how do I get a lively sea that does not look odd?

Getting back to the Leipzig after the forced hiatus, as a next step I would like to finish the hull: plating and camouflage painting. While contemplating the further progress I though it would be wise to mount my Leipzig into the seabed as soon possible after getting the colour-coats onto the hull. This should help to protect the paint-job and of cause I would be handling the base rather than the hull directly.
In the very beginning of this build-up I was asked by a reader to make a lively and dramatic seascape in a style similar to my U-217:




I certainly like to follow that request as we are doing this contest to share what we are doing and how we do things… and of cause show something different. If you are looking for another quick way of making water, this is the wrong place! On the contrary, it does take considerable time to make. And by the time you finish reading this chapter we are not even finished with the water!

“My water” will have volume, so we either pile up the water onto a flat base or carve it from a block. The latter is my choice for this model. I use ordinary styro-foam. Of cause you may use other material with similar properties. I chose the length of the base so that 15 to 20% of the ship’s lengths are available in seaway in front of and behind the hull. The hull’s centreline should be set off by a minimum of 5° from the edges of the base. There should be sufficient room abreast of the ship. In case of the Leipzig I chose that the hull should be no nearer than 5cm to any edge. So the base size I came up with was about 60cmx16cm (23.6” x 6.3”). The foam board was juts short of that so I had to trim the board in width. I used the the hull to see if the space was indeed enough. Then I cut the board using a sharp kitchen knife to trim the board to size.





With the board cut to size I went on to mark the ships position as planned, but setting the bow of slightly more towards the centreline of the board and the mid of the ship toward to rear. This helps to avoid the impression that the ship was put onto the middle that board and it makes the display look bigger from this side, which is supposed to be the main side.




Water is almost a living thing: It varies in colour, viscosity, surface texture and others and it has to bow to the laws of nature. While there are a million ways to represent water, the one set back we all have to live with is that nobody has (as of yet) found a way to credibly create in-scale spray. In consequence we want to capture a moment in time when the ship is riding down a storm, when there is as little spray as possible needed. The bow cutting the crest of the wave creates a lot of spray. Moments later the bow waves collapses and most of the spray has been carried away: An ideal moment. This idea tells us the position of the first wave crest.
At a good wind above force 6 a nice long main wave interval of about 90m seems good to me. An intermediate wave interval of 45m between main waves gives more life to the water. So I drew parallel wave crests at 13cm (5.1”) intervals. I should not forget that the Leipzig operated in the Baltic Sea in Spring 1941: the Baltic sea is pretty shallow, so the waves don’t build as high on open sea, as they would e.g. in the Atlantic: 1.5 to 2cm height difference from crest to trough scales out to 5 to 7m height in real life, which is a LOT. However I will allow myself to a bit of artistic license to give some emphasis to a lively sea.
While the above set of facts determine the natural waves on the display, of cause the ship itself creates waves, too. The waves caused by the hull pushing it’s way through the water are called “traverse waves”. There is an excellent article by Donald C. Simon to be found over at steelnavy.com that I recommend everyone to read.
According to Mr. Simon’s article the traverse wave interval for my Leipzig going a fast 20 knots is 20²/2=200’ (about 60m = 17cm in scale) or one traverse wave every 6.6” starting at the bow.




I cut the waves from the board with a metal brush on my Dremel-tool. I draw the edge to the brush to make the cuts. To avoid my workplace to become totally messed up I keep the vacuum cleaner running along.





I continue to carve into the board until satisfied with the general shape.






The surface is now very rough. I start using the same rotary brush now in dabbing motion taking the top side to the surface takes care of most of the rough surface. Then I change to using 320 grid smoothing paper to manually smooth over where the result of the rotary brush does not suffice.




Using the edge again I cut the basic shape of the hull from the block. First I start small and widen and deepen the cavity with frequent test fittings.








Being the nature of styro-foam the surface of the block is covered with pock marks, which have to be closed. To make sure of a good bond between block and seascape surface, first I prep the base with Mr. Hobby 1000 primer.




This acrylic primer does not attack the foam and gives a good grip for the follow-up layer of acrylic gel from the artist’s store.




Another layer fills up the remaining cavities. With a wet kitchen sponge (fine pores!) I even the surface and lay base to the smaller wave structures.




After the gel has fully dried I start painting the whole base black using artist’s acrylics. Then I dab a mix of indigo, green and black at a random pattern. It’s almost impossible to see in artificial light, but it will give the water more colour nuances.




Using green and white acrylics I start to give contours to the waves.
First very obvious….




… I blend the colours into the underlying black blue with a dabbing motion.



Slowly the surface gets the wanted features.




Be aware that lighting does have a strong influence on what you see. Same picture as above but using the flash of the camera:



At this point I have to stop the painting even though I am itching to start to use unblended white for the crests and the whitecaps. But it would be too early!
When finished painting, the hull will be fixed into the base using white acrylic gel. Only at that point all the clean white will be worked into the picture to achieve a perfect blend.







So it is back to the hull now!
Next step is hull plating. The plating is taped off and sprayed on by three thick layers of Mr. Hobby 1000 primer.






That’s it for this year!
I hope you found it worth reading!


As final words for this year I would like to thank all of you visitors to my blog: The number of hits is simply amazing and I think I must probably be doing something right.
Your friendly comments, constructive criticism and many e-mail contacts are the greatest award anyone can win!
I wish all the members and visitors to this board a great and happy new year and that all your resolutions may be kept/fulfilled. I hope it will be a good (not only) modelling year for my brethren out there!

Cheers!
Guido

Wow!
Mark must be having Prussian blood! Even on this night he is on time!
Happy New Year Mark!

Guido

Happy New Year yo you too, my friend!!!

Guido nice to see you back with a bang another inspiring tutorial so many different ways of making water effect another tip for the note book and a Happy New year to you and your family
Keith

Thanks, Keith!
Same to you!
Cheers,
Guido
PS.: Hope to meet you on SMW09, then! (I completely missed out on your posting after SMW08. Make sure to be there at the high noon meeting of shipmodellers on show Saturday at the WEM booth at high noon!)

Wow! I always think your water looks so amazing and this tutorial is incredible!