Hi Damian

yep-I agree with Gary, you don't want to use a soft surface to cut on, as that will only bend the PE.

I use a hold and fold BUG workstation for all my PE bending. This was a great set as it included a clear piece of Styrene to use to hold the PE while you cut it (so it doesn't fly off into the carpet monster), and black styrene sheets to use as the base to cut the PE on using your exacto knife. The beauty of the black styrene is that the brass really stands out against the black making it easier to use.

I then use a matchstick or toothpick with blue tack on the end to pick up the small parts and for handling etc.

Hope this helps...

Thanks so much for the input Gaz, Russ, much appreciated.

I have "The Bug" in my toolbox and find it a great little tool. I will definitely take the advice of cutting on a hard surface, and I have read a couple of threads where the PE frame has been secured on some masking tape to stop the little blighters from blasting off "to infinity, and beyond" as they are cut free. I will try this as well as the toothpick/bluetac method and report back.
Hopefully I will be able to scam some benchtime over this ANZAC Day long weekend to give this a go.
I have been reading quite a bit about the Gator Glue as opposed to traditional CA, do you guys prefer either alternative, and if so, why? I have always used ZAP Thin CA for my PE additions to my aircraft builds and had no problems.

Cheers, D

Hi Damian

with glue it's a case of horses for courses: if i need a relatively quick bond, then i use CA (usually medium, sometimes with accelerator); if the bond is slower and under no stress then I'll use what's commonly referred to as Gator Glue (more on this later); If a high strength bond is required, and I can clamp the work piece, then it's either a two part epoxy, or if i can i'll solder.

Now, for Gator Glue, did you know you can make your own? Get on down to the hardware store, buy some generic PVA white glue and then dilute with a bit of water until you get a runny custard like consistency. You can then apply with a brush and wipe clean if need be with a damp cloth.

Some examples of what glue to use where: watertight doors to styrene-gator glue (or diluted PVA if you prefer); radar sets and other delicate items requiring a relatively quick bond-CA medium; railings-CA medium or thin at a few key points then Gator/PVA glue to finalise the bond along the entire length. (Gator/PVA is really good for railings as it flexes with temperature variations in the weather). For making brass masts solder or 2 part epoxy to assemble, with finer details added with CA. Then to mount to the deck, it's 2 part epoxy; mounting small details and fittings to the deck that aren't under load i use either diluted PVA or CA, where I can't use styrene glue.

Confused yet? Really choice of glue comes down to what you're assembling and the load they're under...

Well that is as clear as the Yarra!

All good Russ, thanks for the comprehensive reply. It all makes sense. I have both Aquadhere and Bondcrete PVA in the shed for my woodworking adventures, so I will have a play with them as you have described.

Cheers, D

Making nice progress, Damian.

Jim

Thanks for taking a look Jim, good to have another set of eyes checking things out here.

Some more superstructure sub assembly work tonight, nothing major.



Cheers, D

Nice work on the Bridge Damian.

Cheers

Si.

Looking good Damian!

Thanks Si, Todd.

Seriously, it is the engineering of this kit that makes it look good, I'm just a facilitator. Every part that I have cut, trimmed and fitted has literally fallen into place!

Cheers, D

Very nice progress indeed, Damian

The moulded on detail really looks good, and you are doing a fine job as well! As I see, you got all your answers from Russ, absolutely nothing to add...

Cheers,
Jan

Thanks Jan. Yes, Russ gave me everything I need to know on the adhesives front!

A couple more sub assemblies tonight, still plenty of PE parts to be added to both of these.



Cheers, D

Nice job on the funnels Damian,

Looking forward to seeing the etch go on.

Cheers

Si

hmmm... maybe some of the folk at Dragon could go teach Trumpy a thing or two

Seriously though, the model maker is just as important as the kit You're doing a great job.

Thanks guys, good to hear that I seem to be on the right track!

The PE adventure begins! The forward funnel is complete, the aft still has 10 PE and small styrene parts to add!



I used ZAP-A-GAP medium CA applied with a toothpick.

Cheers, D

Nice looking funnels, Damian. Looks like a well detailed kit.

Jim

Very nice work Damian

You're definitely right on track!! And your PE work looks really nice and clean! Good job!!

Cheers,
Jan

Thanks so much James and Jan. I must say I am enjoying the PE a lot more that I expected. I have even managed to get away with gluing the ladder to my finger on only one occasion!

Aft funnel completed with the exception of the searchlight assembly which I want to detail and paint separately.



Thanks again for checking in, and please don't hesitate to let me know if you spot any problems or errors in the process here. Even though the parts fit together beautifully, the instructions are a bit unclear on the locating points for the PE parts.

Cheers, D

Great work D! you're really making me resent all of my missed bench time.

Very tidy work with etch Damian,

Great job

Si

D, remiss of me to not look in on your build and comment, your progress looks good and rightly so everyone got you to build the hull.
I think we can all say that no matter what the instructions say build the hull first, on that subject the Tamiya hull red is I believe slightly too dark a shade for USN ships I believe it is correct for IJN ships, all navies have a hull red but they are not all the same. Now as you're a car man an option that I use and I believe Si also uses is red primer from a rattle can purchased from the local auto parts store this is a good match for most hull red's and if you do weather it then it can be made lighter or darker in the process.

On the glue front Russell nailed it, the advantage of PVA/Gator grip is the drying time when it comes to applying small parts in had to get to places which gives you some extra wiggle time.

As to the PE try and get a A4/Letter sized piece of black or dark coloured acrylic sheet and do your cutting on this, it's hard and being dark you can see the PE more easily.

Your doing well so far and any instruction questions ask away as I have these in the stash.

Oh welcome to the salty side, you're now hooked

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Luciano, thanks so much for checking in, once again it is good to have more sets of eyes looking over my work!




I thought as much. My plan is to decant half of it into an empty jar and add some red to it until I get the shade I am happy with. I should have enough then for the three builds. I also have the Tamiya 1/350 Yamato in the stash courtesy of my uncle so I can use the remaining Hull Red for that.
Any comments regarding the Tamiya Deck Blue and Haze Grey options that I have shown?




Methinks you may be correct!

Cheers, D

Sorry D, I can't help with the other Tamiya paints as I don't use them, I'm a Lifecolor and Vallejo model air user.

A little more PE adventuring tonight, sights and seats on the quad-40s and doors on the main superstructure.




Cheers, D

Those Quad 40's look great Damian! You're moving very quickly.

Gaz

Hi Damian,
The PE work looks excellent on the guns and superstructure. Realising it's one of many it coming along very well.

cheers
Michael