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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
1/426 PE OMG!
95bravo
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Posted: Friday, June 23, 2006 - 01:50 AM UTC
I don't know what I was expecting, I guess some of the thicker stuff like you see for aircraft and armor kits...but when I opened up that package from GMM I was both excited and filled with fear. Excited because now I can continue on with my Arizona...fear...when I looked at those gossamer like rails and ladders.....man, anyone who has worked with this thin thin stuff...any and all advice is welcomed.
Ripster
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Posted: Friday, June 23, 2006 - 02:31 AM UTC
Well, for a start cut it with a new #11 blade on a hard surface (ceramic tile or similar, I use an old table mat for mine). That will avoid any clean up, which can be a nightmare with small scale PE.

Good luck!
Gunny
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Posted: Friday, June 23, 2006 - 04:10 AM UTC
Hey Steve!
Like Rip has said, mate, sharp knife, hard surface, lotsa care and patience, my friend...just think twice before, during and after, dude...shoot, if my old &*#$@! can turn out something half decent with 1/700 PE, surely you can do the same with your project too!
~Gunny
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Friday, June 23, 2006 - 06:04 AM UTC
From personal experience in the 1/400 scale range....

STOP, AND MOVE AWAY FROM THE MODEL AND WORK BENCH... WHEN A COUGH OR SNEEZE APPROCHES.... !!! :-) :-)
95bravo
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Posted: Friday, June 23, 2006 - 09:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

From personal experience in the 1/400 scale range....

STOP, AND MOVE AWAY FROM THE MODEL AND WORK BENCH... WHEN A COUGH OR SNEEZE APPROCHES.... !!! :-) :-)



:-) :-) :-) Oh yes Dave, I feel much better about this already!
Ripster
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Posted: Friday, June 23, 2006 - 01:13 PM UTC
That last one's a good point too - keep a strong torch to hand for fighting the carpet monster...
blaster76
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Posted: Friday, June 23, 2006 - 10:44 PM UTC
You guys are scaring me now. I've worked with PE for my 350 scale ships (I've done 9 so far) and never had a problem. I've pulled out a 700 scale Musashi (initial) to use for the LEyte Gulf campaign and was set back a bit by how small it was and then wondered about PE. So I guess I'll pass on it for a bit and just do my 350 scale TYPE XXI for DDD2
95bravo
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Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 12:29 AM UTC
I know this has came up from time to time, but in the case of the railings, you guys paint these before attaching ...right? I mean, it seems like the sensible thing to do given the main deck is wood. I guess I could do all the railings but those for the main deck....before I paint the main deck...I don't know...


HELP.
Gunny
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Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 01:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I know this has came up from time to time, but in the case of the railings, you guys paint these before attaching ...right? I mean, it seems like the sensible thing to do given the main deck is wood. I guess I could do all the railings but those for the main deck....before I paint the main deck...I don't know...


HELP.



Steve, I ALWAYS paint after the railings are attached, mate...10-0 brush, and a magnifying glass on a third hand...takes a while, but comes out good. I've never had luck with painting before attaching rails. Other PE maybe, depending on what it is (cranes, platforms), parts that won't need much handling.

~Gunny
95bravo
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Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 03:13 AM UTC
Ok, so do you prime it first to give the rails some tooth?
Ripster
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Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 03:21 AM UTC
I tend to do it the other way around - paint first and then attach, touch up afterwards if required (it usually is with me!) Horses for courses I suppose...
#027
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Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 05:03 AM UTC
Painting first, that's what I've always done.
Gunny
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Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 05:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Ok, so do you prime it first to give the rails some tooth?



Tamiya white primer, after attached, that is!....try it both way's, mate, make your choice and roll with it Bro!
~Gunny
blaster76
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Posted: Saturday, June 24, 2006 - 11:49 AM UTC
I paint first, found when I painted second I usually didn't get 100% of railings or put more on the deck than I could ignore.
thathaway3
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Posted: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 08:05 AM UTC
For me it depends on what the part is. Doors and other items that will go onto a bulkhead or deck and all wind up being the same color, I'll put on first and then paint.

Parts which have a lot of fine open areas, like radars, and float baskets, I always airbrush to avoid filling in the holes and to make sure that the paint winds up covering all the surfaces. If it's going on to something that allows me to airbrush AFTER it's assembled or installed I'll do that, but if there are other things in the way. I'll paint first.

Since railings go on last after I've done everything else, which by this time, I've already done detail painting, I always airbrush first, install and then touch up afterwards.

Tom
Ripster
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Posted: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 09:36 PM UTC
Tom, you've just described my technique to the letter
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