Hallo Guido!

Interesting method (another one)!
This Campaign is about to become THE water tutorial!

Keep up
Cheers,
Rui

The wedding ring bit was the funniest thing I've read on this entire site!

--Karl

Oh NO Karl!
Not to be taken light hearted! Guido is being a true friend with his advice...
SWMBO in fury over a missing wedding ring... Run for your lives!


Rui

--Karl

Glad you like it!
Modelling is supposed to be fun, isn't it?
Trying to write entertainingly should be a pricipal goal.
Cheers, mates!

Guido

Gentlemen,


I continue the water making process.
I had smoothed over the edges of the frame of the seascape and glued it to the base board. This needed time to dry. When ready I filed the gap between the frame and base board with white glue and primed the whole assembly using a fine primer usually used for figure painting. I had nothing else at hand and it worked out fine. It took only about 30 minutes to dry so could start to paint quickly.
First I painted the holes scenery blue.
Then I added a few dark Blue areas to break up the uniform blue. I made sure that the colour got into every recess on the surface. I let this dry before adding blue-grey all over making sure that this colour would NOT go into the recesses. This is easily achieved by making sure to use the paint undiluted right from their tubes.



I didn’t let the grey dry fully before adding consecutively lighter shades of grey with a tint of green in dry-brushing method that would only allow the paint to stick to the most elevate parts of the surface. Tiny bits of darker shade were added to the wakes of the running boat.



I taped off the frame and the cut-out for the Tripartite’s hull and added regular, transparent Silicone from the hardware store. In the following you need to proceed quickly, because after some 10 minutes the Silicone starts setting impeding your efforts. The silicone was spread out to create a layer 2 to maximum 3mm thick.





You will feel that the Silicone is a real b**** sticking to everything and being easily pulled up into long strands. That certainly doesn’t do! To create an even surface you need to apply diluted acetic acid. (Wear eye protection and do not overly try to inhale it, it’s not really healthy!). Where ever the acid touches the silicone it won’t stick any more. You can use your fingertips to smooth over the surface and remove the pulled up strands. Since this process that has to be done quickly I didn’t take and photos.
30 minutes later you can remove the tapes and make a dry fit.



I painted the cut-out black and applied a liberal amount of silicone along the rim.


Now I place the hull into its bed and use a fine spade to add more silicone as need to blend the hull into the seascape.



The create bow and stern wake I pulled off strands of cotton from cotton sticks and mashed them up in silicone. Then the are put into their places and shaped as desired.



Now with a nice back-drop (courtesy of Jim Adams: Thanks mate!) The seascape is basically finished. Of cause I still will have to paint the frame and base board, but that’s it.



I like this particular method because of the real “depth” of the water. As well, the water is very shiny and its sparkle changes as you change your relative position. It’s anther method most effective for shows. BTW: If thoroughly dried you may remove the silicone to change the painting underneath, but then you have to use a new layer of silicone.

This was the second of my preferred method. It’s called “modified “Ilse Water”” after Frank Ilse from Hamburg. His original method was developed for waterlined hulls.
Certainly I will be able to show a third method before the campaign is over and maybe – if lucky- a fourth.

Cheers,
Guido

Hallo Guido!
Interesting technique...
But I must say (at least from the photos) that the sea color/color treatment that you made looks a little strange... too much light grey?
Again could be the lighting (?)

I must also say that the effect of the silicone is something that I am considering trying one of these days
Danke
Rui

Guido

That sunrise does look good. Glad I could help!

Hardly the lighting...
Probably it is the grey!

For those of us who (unlike me) don't have easy access to tons of Acetic Acid, would regular vinegar do? Whilst Acetic is a relatively weak acid, its not something that I would want being chucked around the workshop on a regular basis!

BTW, I agree with Skipper, the base does look very light

Neil,
Indeed vingar will do, if it isn't too much thinned down. The diluted acetic acid I use is from the supermarket. Here you may find in the same corner as cleaning agents. It is used to remove lime stome in baths and kitchens.

The light effected is indeed wanted. The light effect should replicate the feel of being able to see the bottom of the sea as you may in costal areas with water depth up to 15-20 Meters. I guess the look is a bit strange sure to the underlying blue it is a bit too intense.
I will decide if I go back remove the silicone and paint again.

...

Guido

This is about what I have been aiming at...



I'll use more green in the white next time around!

Guido

You know, that is the tricky thing about water, isn't it? It can be a variety of colors at the same time, depending on your viewing angle. I bet if that scene shown above were viewed from an aircraft, the colors of the water would be different.


--Karl

Here is my finnished RNLI Severn Class Lifeboat hopefully my photo skills are getting better.I have finnished the base off with some thin pine wood and stained and varnished







Any comments welcome always wanting to learn from my mistakes

That lifeboat looks good to me and so does the water. I cannot see any weathering on the boat but that might not be an issue with this type of boat, if it was well taken care of.

Good job ether way.

A very dynamic setting, that really ads to the boat.

Likewise, I cant see any weathering, but these boats propably recieves a lot of spit and polish !

Good work - any chance for a crew figure ?

Cheers/Jan

No wheathering they are well looked after boats here is my local one at Tynemouth

Hi Keith!!

Looks terrific! I really like the theme and your rendition too!
Just a question regarding the RNLI model.. did Airfix included any crew members?
I understand that they are inside most of the time, but I have to ask!

Congratulations Keith
Cheers,
Rui

Great result, Keith!

I really like it! Well done, mate!

Guido

That is very impressive water !!! and not to slight the boat either ...VERY impressive!

Gents,
We have some Great builds going here. My USCG MLB is progressing - but slowly. If I get a chance, I'll take a few shots this weekend, both to show the progress, and get any critiques anyone may have. Keep building, Gang. Bruce

Thats the money shot right there!

Gents thanks for your kind words unfortunatly Airfix do not include any crew figures but I will be trying to convert some Revell 1/72 figures.At least give it a go to add to the scene

Hi All!

Since I have been having issues getting photos to post on the forums consistently, I have opted to save up my WIP pics and submit them as a feature. My entry for Divine Waterline is the "Counter Blow" feature recently posted to the site. I have found a new use for a certain holiday item when depicting certain water effects as you will see.

Thanks!

--Karl

Karl,
Your technique is absolutely Great !!!! At least I think so. A question for you, the material used for the bursts, are you getting that in cloth shops ? I am really impressed with the effect you have achieved. Now I really have to get serious with my build ! Thank you for the tip, and the Great article...........................Bruce