Step 55

Fore Knave Line

The truss pendants have been run through the loop ends of a short strop behind the mast.Tie a length of 2" rope to the center of the strop,lead it through the 7" block attached to the rear center of the fore top.

Hack P 70

Long P241

Please note: It is around step 53 that the decision will have to be made as to how much rigging will be shown on the yards.Blocks for the bunts,leeches and clew lines are optional for harbor rig.I showed them on my model because I just like lots of rigging,I even put on the jewel blocks for the stunsail gear.Some of this could be put on later but I would recommend rigging the yards as completely as possible, now that they are easily accessible.



Step 56

The Slings

The lower end of the yard slings could also go on at this time.See page 240 figure 170 in Longridge,Hackney unfortunately shows the sling as one continuous rope which is incorrect.The sling is in two parts upper and lower with thimbles lashed together by a 3 1/2" laniard.

Step 57 (the slings cont...)

The upper part of the sling is made from 12" cable with an eye spliced in one end.It has a long leg and a short leg,the short leg has the spliced eye.T.It then comes down to reeve through the eye of the short leg.The long leg passes over the cap where is lies on a bolster and then comes down to reeve through the eye of the short leg and is seiezed there with three lashings.

Long P239 -40. Fig 170.

Step 58

Foreyard Tackle Pendant

There are two methods for rigging these pendants.The first a method as described by Hackney is to rig them to the shrouds and is correct for harbor rig.

Tie one 7" block at the outer quarter on each side of the yard.Tie another to the foremost shroud on each side just below the futtock stave.Tie a short length of 7" rope at the yardarm with a 13" double block in the end.This line should be long enough to allow the 13" block to lie bolow the 7" block at the yard arm when it is pulled towards the shrouds.

I however used Campbell's method as described by Longridge for this as I believe that it allows for a more stable yardarm.Yardarm stability is very important as even the slightest movement when attaching the braces on one side or the other can throw out of whack all the other ropes on the yard (bunts,leeches etc...as you can see in some of my pics.)
You could overcome some of this by not having the ropes too taunt to start off with but I haven't yet figured out how to make them look good and still look like they are carrying weight (slightly bent)

Longridges description of Campbell's method is on page 242 of his book and is used more for the modelers convenience than true harbor rig.
I will diagram both methods and you can chose between the two.

Step 59


Forward Tackle Inner Tricing Line

Tie a 7" single block to the foremost lower shroud.Make a small loop in one end of a 2 1/2" rope.Lead the other end down through the block and tie it (temporarily)leaving the loop end loose from the shroud block.

Step 60

Foreyard Tackle

Take a 13" block and form a becket at one end and a hook at the other,tie a length of 3 1/2" rope to the becket.Engage the hook into the loop in the hanging end of the inner tricing line.Reeve a 3 1/2 " rope in a luff tackle between the hooked block and the double block on the end of the tackle pendant.Lead the end of the thread back above the hooked block,down through the loop in the end of the tricing line alongside the hook and tie off.The lower end of of the inner tricing line can now be permanently fixed.

Confused ? me too!
Let me explain:

Ropes 59 & 61 both run down the shrouds.The ? at the end of the yardarm is to indicate that this is where the outer end of the tricing line attaches to the yardarm pendant so that it can be pulled up to the yardarm.
The other ? shows where the inner tricing line pulls the yard tackle up towards the yardarm into a stowed position.

Step 61

Foreyard Tackle Outer Tricing Line

Tie a length of 2" rope to the tackle pendant right above the block.Pass the free end up and through the yard quarter block,across and down through the uppermost shroud block and down the shroud rope.

Step 62 (This is so important that I gave it a step of its own)

Foretopsail yard

Decision time! will it be harbor,furled or sail rig? If sail rig, position this yard high on the mast,if furled or harbor rig is your preference then mount it low on the mast ,almost to the level of the caps.The same is true for the other masts as well.
Decision #2 how much rigging do I want to show on these yards? should I install it all now?(recommended)

Decision #3 see Longridge P247-48.Securely pinning or gluing down things down.On the real ship there is a lot of weight on the rigging to hold things in place,on a model the yards and the lines can work themselves lose to give your model a less than ship shape look. I know because it also happened to me.

Step 63

Foretopsail Yard Tie Purchases

The blocks installed under the crosstrees are used for these ropes.Tie two lengths of 6" rope around the head of the topmast just above the crosstrees so that one length hangs down each side.The starboard rope is lead through one sheave of the double block on the yard, through the single block under the port side of the crosstrees and down alongside the port topmast backstay.Tye in its end a 14" double block just above the level of the lower yard.Repeat the process with the port length of rope ,leading it the opposite way and finishing with its end block hanging alongside the starboard backstay.

Step 64

Foretopsail Yard Halyards

Tie a 14" single becket block,one each side,to the eyebolts immediately aft of the eleventh deadeyes in the fore channels by short lengths of rope,so that the blocks are just above the level of the upper deadeyes.Lengths of 3 1/2" are tied to the beckets of these blocks.Reeve them to the double blocks of the tie purchases in a luff tackle.Tie the falls inside the forecastle rail .

Step 65

Foretopgallant Yard

Locate the position of the yard on the mast just above the cap and pin and glue in position.

Step 66

Foretopgallant Tie

Lead a rope of 4 1/2" through the topgallant mast sheave and then down aft of the mast.Tie a 8" double block in its end slightly above the level of the foremast cap.


Step 67

Foretopgallant Yard Halyard

Tie a length of 3" rope to the becket of the remaining single block installed above the aft end of the foretop.Reeve this to the double block just installed on the foretopgallant tie in a luff tackle.Lead the fall through the aft hole in the foretop.

It is very difficult to photograph the run of the running rigging while the model is in the case due to very limited access,lighting conditions etc......I will highlight the
important parts of the tackle wherever possible. The run of the rigging should be clear in the various steps that I have described.Belaying points on deck will be fully covered and illustrated at a later stage.Cheers! John.

Step 68

Foreyard Lifts

Tie a 12" single block end to end with a 26" double block,attach the larger block to the to the yardarm of the foreyard.A 4 1/2" rope is attached to the becket of the block already installed at the mast cap.Lead it down through the top and inside the shrouds to belay at the kevel opposite the fore end of the fore channel.

Hack P 72

Long P242-43.

I will continue with this thread as soon as possible but for now I must get back to my Canada Aviation Museum commitments.Thanks for your understanding.Cheers! John.

I visited a couple of local hobby stores yesterday and to my surprise I saw something amazing.Ten years ago, except for the amour guys ,hardly anyone knew about dioramas or even what they were.Not only most modelers but the arts community too!
Things are finally changing,they now have craft materials for kids, even under ten years old' labeled as "diorama kits".I am not just talking about the modeling section of the stores but in the childrens craft section as well.Sure,I know that this kind of craft thing has been around for a long time but I never have seen a kit designed especially for kids and labeled a diorama.
So what is the big deal?Well maybe sometime in the future makers of dioramas will not have to explain to 9 out of 10 people that they meet what kind of art they do.