Absolutely!

Nice work Jan,

Like the relaxed poses of the figures.

Si

I admire the way diorama techniques usually employed for armor are worked into a naval subject.

--Karl

magnificent work Jan No torpedoes?
Julian

Thanks guys - no torpedoes, the pictures i used for inspiration all showed them without the torpedoes.

Besides I hate Italeris torpedoes.....

With this build getting close to deadline, heres one of the very rare chances of commenting on the the grass in an naval diorama ...

Only lacks some water in the corner and a bucket with beers and 2 fishing rods ...

Cracking groundwork Jan,

the whole pulls together really well.

Si.

Fantastic work, Jan. You really set a very high standard in you work.

I have finished my first submarine. I am not completely satisfied as the weathering as the panel lines look too heavy - and looks even more heavy in the photos.

I am calling this one finished although there will be some more weathering when it is included in a diorama. I am planning to place it on a Baltic coast beach with a Soviet T-70 tank in the waterline. The Soviet tanker having driven down to see what is beached in the sand.

It was fun to participate in this campaign and I learned a lot about weathering. The next sub will be better.

Nice work Jesper - I am glad that this will not be your last submarine.

Your plan for a diorame sounds interesting, hope that you will show us the work on that.

Regarding weathering then theres a lot of variation on the originals, so its hard to say, that what you have done isn´t realistic, but you can tone it down a bit with a light drybrush - which will allso bring out the weldseams a bit more.

If its going to be beached, may I suggest a few ruststripes on the upper hull ?

Thanks for the kind words!

Cheers/Jan

Lets go fishing

That is magic Jan, love the build and of course the fishing rod. Will it be Danish beer in the bucket?
Looks good Jasper and the plan for the dio sounds good as well !
Julian

Thanks Julian, well - it ought to be Norwegian beer, but I am fighting the clock since I want to both finish it in time for this build, but also take it to a show on subday.

Did get some paint on the fishing rod and made me a little bucket for the catch out of tinfoil and wire.

This is amazing stuff! Thanks for stretching the envelope, Jan.



--Karl

My computer problems have not been resolved and I,m still waiting for it,s repair so still have to borrow my son,s lap top but unable to post any photos as yet

Thanks Karl, but not stretching, just making it a bit bigger bringing some 1:35 armor techniques into play.

Still, the water is mocking me and misbehaving .... naughty water !! - Total failure is still around the corner ... insert dramatic movie music

Thanks for the comments, guys. Some drybrushing might look good and take some of the "edge" of the smoke spray on the seems.

I already made some rust stains although it does not show easily in the photos. I might give it some extra rust when it sits in the diorama. Also a wash of "wet sand"

I will of course share the diorama with you when it is finished

I had an utter failure on my water - which made med rip it off friday night and re-sculpt the water in air-clay. Leaving it overnight i airbrushed it saturday and added some acrylic gel for that waterlike transparency.

Sunday I took it to a show where it was nice enough to place second in its class - so it really is an award winning fjord...

Well, heres the final look:

Excellent!
Bravo Zulu!
Guido

Great build, Jan! It looks very realistic and tells a nice story.

Top points!

Finally able to catch up with the campaign -

Jesper – Seehund looking good; very informative in terms of the research you did and posted!

Julian – Nice to see the Biber come back to life. I like the paint scheme. Congrats on the finish!

Simon – Love your finished product!

Jan – Nice job on your type A, congrats on the finish.

I am glad I saw your painting scheme and WIP before I painted mine; was trying to figure out how to avoid painting the hull flat black, was toying with the idea of using anthracite grey. I like your quote:

“...black is a color you dont want to look black on a model”

I will do some Fl Black-preshading first. I was going to simply put a coat of lightened FlBlack (or NATO black), then Future-seal and use oils for color modulation streaking, followed by pastels/chalks.. I think… any ideas or suggestions?

PS I like your Biber too! Very very nice!

I will post some pics of my build over the next day or two; the Fine Molds 1:72 Kaiten Type 1. I will not be able to finish it before the April 1st deadline, unless there is an extension (hint * hint*). I can then attempt to make a suitable base and even try to paint my first figure ever.

Cheers all

Hi James, thanks alot for you kind remarks, regarding painting black, you question made me ponder, and being on the way with a Revell Class 214 - I have begun the following A study in black with the purpose of getting the upper hand on painting black.

For the Kaiten, I think I would go for a blue base color and build it up from there ?

Cheers/Jan

Slartibartfast would be proud, Jan.

--Karl

Gents some fantastic builds here just got my computer back after again had to go for more repairs, My build so far holes drilled and hull halfs together lost some photo data but hope to catch up soon

My build blog for Kaiten Type 1 – 1:72 Fine Molds Kit # FS1s

Fine Molds re-released their Kaiten Type 1 kit in conjunction with the release of the new film in Japan, in 2006. Do not confuse this special edition kit with kit # FNMFS1 which includes TWO kaiten subs in two sprues (is kit KS1 “half” of FNMFS1?).



Pic from Jan, but did not start the build till earlier this month due to the usual life-issues.



The kit has low part counts: 12 for the sub assembly and another dozen for the cart.



Some nice fine detailing in some parts, such as the hatch, molded welds and rivets, and cart. Props probably a tad thick; a small PE fret would have been welcome.



Cart fit was great. I think the hull fit was also good, except I mangled the mating. Nothing some putty smoothing and rivet/weld re-scribing could not fix:



Pictures of existing specimens show that the welding was really pronounced, and some of the casting was very rough:





I added some Mr Surfacer 500 to enhance the welds. I also dabbed some Mr S on selected parts of the hull to replicate the roughness of the cast metal:



I gently sanded down the Mr S. The hull was cleaned and washed, and primed


- At this point, I have primed and fixed couple details that got lost during manipulation. Obviously, I will not finish before the deadline today unless there is an extension *hint hint* I will continue to post in any case

Any comments or feedback relating to accuracy, technique or aesthetics more than welcome!

Nice work so far James - please keep posting.

I´m not sure about the casting, I think it would all be rolled steelplate welded together ?

As far as i Know its half the kit - released together with the movie "Battle under the Orion" I think it was - saw it some weeks ago - ok movie.

Cheers/Jan