As you can see here - the last few days have all been deadeyes and chains. I've finished the starboard side and the mizzen mast on the port side. Still a ways to go.

I got tired of a world of deadeyes and chains so I took a break. I've detailed the masts with the boarding pikes, boom gaff and belaying pin bracket. Then painted the masts and finally glued them in.

I've finally finished the lower deadeyes and chains.



Here is a closeup of the foremast deadeyes and chains:



Here is a closeup of the mainmast boarding pikes:

Ahoy Paul

By crikey shipmate you have been busy indeed.

Nice progress.


Cheers



Sean

Thanks Sean - yes I've been busy. Here is another update. Even though the Heller/Imai instructions show installing the ships boats in the last step - I've decided to install them now. It's much easier to put them in now - if I wait I will have a lot of rigging to contend with. The down side is that now I have the ships boats to work around as I rig. I've also noticed that the starboard boat is not quite level. I tried to fix it - but its in there solid and won't budge. I may just leave it as it is.

I've fixed the boat tilt by loosening the CA glue with some debonder, then added some spacers on the port side. Looks good now.

Now I'm working on the above deck hammock storage. I've found that a new sharp x-acto #11 blade works well for trimming the netting. I install the netting, glue it up with some CA, trim with x-acto knife, then install the hammocks. The brackets are photo etch parts.

I've started on the shrouds, and have finished the mizzenmast lower shrouds. I'll start on the ratlines today. I'll post some pictures this afternoon. I use my serving machine to seize the shroud deadeyes, but use it in manual mode - that gives me the control I need. It was pretty fiddley at first, but once I got a routine down, it went pretty fast.

Wow - that's amazing work!!! And you really have been busy over the holidays - something I can't claim for my shipyard...

Your Victory looks absolutely stunning, Paul!!

Cheers,
Jan

Rigging the deadeyes proved difficult at first then I got a procedure established that made it very easy. I tied the deadeyes to the shrouds by using my serving machine in manual mode. I've tried 3 different threads for the ratlines - invisible (but still dark) thread, some thread I had purchased, and finally the thread that Imai included with the model. The invisible thread was too stiff, the next thread had too much fuzz, but the Imai thread is perfect. I made up a pattern on paper that I then attached to plastic sheet using contact cement. 30 clove hitches done with about 5000 to go - ha ha.

I've added some photos of the latest progress. I've redone the mizzen mast ratlines about 3 times, I continue to have the outside shrouds pulled inward. I've decided to add some temporary outlier shrouds to keep the regular outside shrouds from being pulled inward. You can see this from the picture, I'll have to wait and see if this indeed helps.

I've also finished the bow figure's crown and then was able to set the bow spirit and rigg that. I've also added the walkway to the bow spirit. On cannons you can notice the monogram that I've added to the barrel's.

Some excellent detailing as you continue! The dreaded rat lines....LOL Keep up the good work!

Thanks Todd - yes I'm in ratline hell lol. I have finished the starboard mizzen ratlines tho.

That's the way to do it...keep going! I oddly found the last sets I did to be relaxing...LOL But it can take it's toll!

Thanks Todd for the encouragement! I installed the main shrouds and lower forstays. Both of the lower forstays have been wormed using my serving machine. That worked out really well and looks great. You really can't tell in the pictures tho.

I've made up a ratline jig. I got the idea from an entry on NRG's Model Ship World and slightly modified his idea. It's made up of two lengths of 3mm x 6mm plastistruct with fine sand paper glued on one 3mm side. I use brass wire to close the ends – this traps the shrouds inside and the sandpaper keeps them from sliding around. The 3mm length translates to 12 inches 1/100 scale; this will end up being closer to about 14 inches when all is done which is about right for ratline spacing. As you can see the resulting ratline is nice and straight and hopefully this jug will prevent the dreaded pulling in on the outside shrouds. When I attach the jig to the shrouds I make sure it's level using the level in the last picture. Here are some pics:

I simply don't find words for this - - awesome, absolutely stunning, I don't know... I do know one thing: I could not do it.

Great and I am following in awe!

Cheers,
Jan

I've been working on the mainmast ratlines. The starboard side is done, now I'm working on the port side. The ratline jig is really working well.

That is really shaping up nicely Paul! Well done getting all those ratlines in order!

Thanks Todd - I appreciate your support!

I've finished the main mast lower ratlines, I've also started to rig the fighting tops. There are several 2 mm blocks on the bottom of each of these, rigging these may be a problem – they aren't in an easy to get to place.

I've finished the forward mast lower shrouds. Next I'll be working on the ratlines, and the next section of the bow spirit.




I've gotten tired of getting the super glue all over everything. So I made what I call my CA glue center. I used a piece of brass tubing, soldered a bottom plate to it so it's water tight, and used that for the debonder station. I used some 2 oz paint mixing cups and epoxied everything to the wood base. The CA stays in a nice liquid form and this really cuts down the mess. I used the debonder tube to clean off the glue stick periodically. The pictures are pretty much self explanatory.

So for the last month I've had a rash on both arms. I've been to the doctor and he gave me some pretty strong steroids for 5 days. That didn't do it. I got to thinking – maybe I have a reaction to the CA I've been using. I have it out in cups to use so the fumes (I can't smell them) are always there. I'm also using it in a unventilated room – so that isn't good. I've decided to change from CA to clear flat lacquer to seal the rigging knots, and have also ordered a professional mask to wear. Hopefully these things will help.

I've installed the bow spirit today. The second section is made up of a brass tube with the plastic ends epoxied on. The third and last section is made up of a tapered bamboo shiskabob stick. The kit plastic parts are way too flexible to use. As I've built it the bow spirit is much more rigid and will handle the rigging much better. On to the pics:

Hi Paul,

Sorry to hear about the rash you've developed. I'm surprised your doctor wouldn't have been aware of CA exposure causing skin problems, on the assumption you told him/her about it. Or maybe it's just something else.

I use clear nail polish to seal the knots on my ratlines. It's got quite a strong aroma, and I only have the jar open for less than a minute or two at a time. The downside is, it takes an hour or more to form a nice, hard seal.

Hope that rash is just a rash, and isn't some itchy rash.

Cheers,

Tim

Thanks Tim,
I drove through a blizzard to see my doctor today - he didn't think CA caused the rash - perhaps a strep or staff infection. He prescribed some antibiotics - if that doesn't work I'll go to dermatology and perhaps have them biopsy it. It isn't serious anyway - knock on wood.

I've started to glue the ratlines with 1:1 ratio of white glue and water, then dry it with a hairdryer (very carefully).

In the meantime I've added the lower forestay to the bowsprit and started the lower foremast ratlines.