The degaussing cable ran from the bow(both sides) along the deck edge in the water channel. The kit's chocks are flush with the deck but should be raised which allowed water to flow aft when the ship was under way. I provided two photos; one of the Arizona and one from the Texas. The cable ran underneath the chocks. I plugged the location hole of the kit with pieces of the chock then mounted the rest of the chock on C channel plastic.

Some pictures of decking and the cable.

The next detail I tackled was the aft (future) 1.1" mount tubs. The photo here is from the Life series of pictures on the Maryland. Trumpeter has these elevated with a round post whereas it should be(what I've found) is a square base. These mounts were heavy and the Navy had issues of finding a good mount for these. Another mount base was for the 3"/50's and they seem to have a triangular shaped base(rounded corners)..In the last photo you can make out the degaussing cables, the modified projection booth and the 1.1" platform



]

In these next photos it shows how the observer can see through the casemate on the O2 level whereas you shouldn't! They need walls behind them, so I built some as per the General Arrangement plan. I also remade the firehoses as the kit's were a later type and rebuilt the electrical boxes. The 5"/51's are finished in this picture. All my barrels are Model Master out of Poland.

Here is my finished Airfix 1/72 Val as flown by Lieutenant Commander Egusa Takeshige off the Soryu.

Very nice!

On the subject of Pearl Harbor I wonder why Trumpeter has not produced the Oklahoma and Nevada 1/700 in plastic.

Or late war Pennsylvania in 1/200?

Hi Randy: I like what you've done with the gun tub. It really adds to the overall affect as do the hose reals. I tried to make them but; no joy.
The 5" Casemate guns look great.

Nice colorful Val Jeff D. Very Nicely done.

Very nice Jeff D. even with some of the simplicity of the older Airfix kits they still shine with a nice paint job

Okay: I managed to get the last of the "deck fittings" in place, these include the 5" deck guns (kit provided) with the Trumpeter detail set barrels and the two three inch guns forward. These came from Di Steffan at Shapeways. They are really nice.
I painted all the ladder wells white and the inside of the hatches white as well as the supports white to simulate the white rope that would be found on these.


I also added the vents. The three angled vents are totally different than the Arizona's round vents. These came from the Model Monkey (Steve Larsen) catalog at Shapeways. I used the kit "barbette" railings around the number three and number two barbettes. Here you can see the ladder wells and the angled vents. I also used the kit turret vents along the number three barbette. Pennsyvlania's were a little different, but I didn't want to scratch these as I felt they weren't that noticeable or detract from the overall appearance.



The forward tub on the Arizona was empty as it was awaiting the installation of the quad 1.1 "Chicago Piano". Trumpeter has the tub molded as one piece. The splinter shield was built on the deck so the inside decking should be wood, with a small portion outboard as metal. I didn't want to cut out the inside of the tub and risk ruining it, so I used spare wood decking to simulate the affect.





You get the idea and it looks pretty neat in person.

After getting the deck fittings in place I next turned to the main mast. I should have put the railings on the vegetable locker prior to this, but in my haste I didn't, it will be a bit fiddly to do, but not beyond the pale.
Pennsylvania's main mast was situated differently than the Arizona's so I had to scratch build the thing and cut some holes in the deck for the legs to attach to as they are much shallower than Arizona's.

Here you can see where they go vice where Arizonas go through the openings on either side of the vegetable locker.






After the main mast I fixed the superstructure and the stack.

I had to adjust some of the hatches so the superstructure would fit, but overall it went on straightforward.



As the stack is also from Steve Larsen (Model Monkey) 3D printed, it was made to fit on the boat deck not to go through to the main deck so I attached a piece of sheet plastic to the bottom of the stack and fitted it in place after the superstructure. I placed eyelets on the deck between the 5" Splinter shields and rigged the stack to the deck.




Now on to the final stages of the build. The boats, the jack and flag staff, rigging of the main mast and connecting to the formast, anchor and chain and I think that is it.

Stay tuned.

Mark,

Amazing work. I really need to get my hands on a 200 scale ship...

I apologize to all for my absence the past couple of months, I was not really in a position for posting anything but I have been trolling the site and seen the amazing work everyone has been posting.

While I wasn't in a position to post anything it did not mean that I was idle at the shipyard. Here are some pics of WIP with a more detailed description on the individual ship build logs.

The IJN Shokaku is moving along albeit slowly. It took me up until this last weekend to finally finish drilling out all the port holes. While taking that task on slowly I kept up on other parts of the build. Here is the stern deck with the life boats dry fitted.



The PE provided by Fujimi is nice for the lifeboats but it is incomplete and lacking some sets. One mistake I made was that I added the boat housing to the deck before adding the wooden deck. An oversight that will be rectified on the 6 other 12m lifeboats that still need to be built.

As I was looking at the bow deck (I know that's not the right term) I realized that the capstans, bollards and deck hatches were not very appealing so I added Alliance Models Works Bollards, Hasegawa's Capstans and some hatches from North Star.



the PE that came with the kit is nice but it misses the boat in some areas. For instance it provide perforated support beams for the gun tubs and the side mounted platforms but doesn't provide for molded on overhangs as depicted in the picture.



So I took the Alliance Models works perforated gussets and replaced the molded on detail.



As far as the Akigumo is concerned, progress moved quite swiftly until I dedicated time to the Shokaku.

Here are some overall shots of the Akugumo with a more detailed description in the build log.





Well that's it for now, I should have my updates in the other logs by the end of the day.

Dave

The perforated gussets are a nice touch and bring attention to that area of the model. The "focsl" is coming along nicely as well with the added parts the detail is picked out nicely vice the softer molded in details. Coming along nicely.
The Akugumo looks the business as well.
1/200 is nice, takes a lot of room, a lot time, but when finished an impressive model.

Thanks for your comments.

Alright all! I'm back for I don't know how long. I've been having internet issues, so here it goes..
The trumpeter's Arizona capstans/wildcats needed more work. Here are pictures of the USS Texas' which I tried to emulate.

Another thing I added were the unusual bollards on the forward bow. Some pictures of the Arizona, Texas(present day) and my addition...

More mods: The name plate letters were actually 12" letters welded on to the hull. By mid-late 1941 the directive was out to paint it the same as the hull color. The kit uses decals(black) which are too flat as well. I used Archer's tranfers resin decal letters to give it the raised look. Other details around the stern; reworked bollards, the extra hand wheel at the aircraft crane, and reworked vents. I also installed the 5"/51's and added the O2 deck.

I used North Star paravanes whish are excellent!

The forward 1.1" gun tubs didn't have a solid floor as the example on the left, but had a wood deck/base. This meant I had to cut out the floor and cover up the locator holes for the original part.

Here's the tub under work and the finished product. The hole on the deck edge where the wood decking ends was plated with steel. You might also notice where the kit ladder from the main deck to the O2 level(between the 1.1 " tubs and the forward 5"/25 AA gun position is in the wrong place and should be moved forward. The conundrum is that the Artwox deck have the part locator holes in the wood deck, which have to be relocated as well. Also a shot of a finished wildcat.

Good update Randy. I like what you did with the odd bollards in the bow area. I chickened out and didn't to it to the Pennsylvania. I also like what you did to the wood deck where Artwox had the cut outs for the ladders in the wrong place; it looks seamless. Following the Arizona's example, I did the same on my Pennsylvania, moved the ladders in the "Correct" position; only to find out that the kit version is correct for the Pennsylvania. Go Figure. Your attachment of the paravanes to the barbette is a nice touch as well. This is coming along nicely. I am looking forward to the next update.

More to come!