Gentlemen,

I forgot to mention that I finished the surface of the sea with a juicy coat of future to get some nice watery shine into the scene. It doesn’t really show that much in the photos and it is a matter of taste
Of cause a bit of working the camera does a world of good. I guess it s not really necessary to use Photoshop.
I certainly hope you like the result and my contribution to the campaign. Please feel free to contact me anytime to answer your questions.

















Cheers,
Guido

Shock and awe !

Beautiful model !

Cheers/Jan

Wow!

That is so good.

BZ Guido!

Absolutely awesome modelling, of the highest quality. If I could make one recomendation it would be perhaps a bit of weathering? Its awfully clean for a fishing boat...

But I still think its absolutely awesome, and the moonlit shots are incredible

Definitely has that "Oh crap!" feel Guido. Awesome work!

Another Fantastic sea scape stunning stuff Guido

Stunning work so far! I am especially impressed with the nighttime photography.

--Karl

A couple of those night photos could be of the real thing! Awesome job!

I have not words to say how impressive this vignette is Guido!....wow...
The weathering suggestion for the ship is a good one. I was on a fishfarm for almost 10 years and things get REALLY dirty and worn fairly quickly, and if youre in an emergency situation, stuff gets missed..( I admit I wasnt on a ship, this was a land operation..)
On a technical question note: can I ask how you rigged the ship? its very impressive
Once again .....VERY inspiring work....its art dude!

Gentlemen-
Thank you for your kind replies. It really means a lot to be commended by an assembly of fine modellers such as you are.
Concerning the weathering: I agree, that most commercial fishing vessels do look a lot more worn than my model does. One thing is that I do not like overly weathered ship models at all. I even do not choose certain items to build, because it would require messing them up beyond my own liking. (Example: POW arriving at Singapore) The other thing is that there is weathering than doesn't actually show in the photos, cause I kept it very subtle. I have always felt that here are 2 ways of approaching. 1st: I build for display in the internet. 2nd. I build for show and travel. In my humble opinion what may look good on the net, may be way off the chart in real life.
Still, I agree there could be a tad more applied. I may add some brown rust to the steel rigging and maybe I will take out that white chalk again and may have a go at the hull again, but that'll be it.
The main rigging this time is done in .2mm brass rod (Lion Roar). It is a bit thick for my liking, but it does carry the weight of the outriggers and should be able take a push and a shove when being transported to a show. The model will be shown at three shows next year travelling no less than 3000km, maybe even more. There is a bit of rope in the rigging don with stretched sprue.
Cheers,
Guido

PS.: I started a new project this morning.

Can you give us a hint?

--Karl

Of cause:



I've put up a thread in the Dockyard and come back here as soon as I get to tackle the water, which will be different from the above.

http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=forums/148648&page=1

Cheers,
Guido

Well coming along slowly is my RNLI lifeboat have got the basic coulors on and made the base up from poly foam. Copying a lot from Guido,s techniques by shaping the foam with a dremel tool and covering not with acrilyic gel but cheap DIY silicone sealer and painted over the only little bit of my own idea is to glue scotchbrite at the stern for a foaming effect.Still need to add all the raillings and some detail painting. The first photo is the sort of look I,m trying to achive.

What a stunning piece of "seawork" - it really looks just spot on!

Cheers/Jan

Good Job, Keith!!!

Keep up the good work!
Cheers,
Rui

Great work, Keith! This is shaping up to be a spectacular campaign!

--Karl

Excellent, man! I love it!
Make sure to put some extra effort in making god pictures with a fitting backdrop!
Guido

Nice work on that water - it should look quite dramatic from a low angle

Thanks for the comments guys, coming from all of you that gives me a great BUZZ.See you can teach an old dog new tricks,over the last couple of years I,ve learned so much from all here at MSW thanks.
Guido for the back drop when this is finnished would you suggest some photos by the sea with the rough wheather that we are having at the moment as Peter did in the Comunity buid campaigne with his Averof

Painted, printed, photo ... whatever floats your boat. It depends a bit of the lighting method and the picture quality. Use a tripod and at least three light sources (left, right, top). Don't use a flash. Allow long lighting time.
Usually I try 3-4 different settings and take 50-60 shots to harvest 8-10 I really like for my presentation. The easiest one is always that big black cardboard quarter-tube back drop.
Making decent photos is always an important part of my projects so I wil allow some time to get it done right. The more you practise, the easier it gets.
Now make a decent frame and shoot away!

Guido

Believe it or not, but getting an assortment of commercial spray cans in various shades of blue, violet, lavender, turquoise, and white and free-hand spraying on white foamcore can produce convincing sky backdrops for a huge variety of weather conditions. For inspiration, I consult marine art prints on the internet or the more elaborate art on some of my naval references like the cover to Alan Raven's British Cruisers of the Second World War. Don't worry about making an exact replica of the marine art, but see how those colors mentioned above can be made to produce a stormy weather look.

It's cheap, easy, and surprisingly fun to improvise such a skyscape.

--Karl

Keith,

You can do any of the well suggested options, or you can check this post

Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Rui

Excellent, Rui! These should come in handy!



Gentlemen,

As this campaign is about explaining our preferred methods of making water, I’d like to share with you another technique.
As opposed my “Perfect Storm” diorama, I want to show you apossible method of creating a perfectly calm sea. Again, this not another method that will see you finished within an afternoon.

I start out to choose the proper size for my display and cut it from a hard-foam board (Styro-foam will do!) Using sanding paper I create a shallow trough (about 3mm deep and 12 cm wide) running diagonally across the display (red lines).
In the next I chose the place for the ship and other boats and mark their positions.



I use a diamond sanding disk on my dremel-tool to create the cavity which will hold the hull. There is a lot of dirt created by this, so best use the vacuum cleaner right along.



Repeated dry fitting will help you to find the proper dimension for the cavity: It should hold the hull comfortably and allow an all-around gap of about1mm.



A rotary steel-bristle brush is used to shape the wakes for the one boat running in the foreground of the display.



The troughs created in this process are very shallow, maybe only about 1-1.5mm deep.
I have made them visible with pencil dust to better illustrate the look.




Now take a suitably sized sheet of aluminium foil. Take off jewellery of your hands to avoid creating tears or deep creases. Rub the foil between your flat hands to create a pattern of small crinkles all over.





Now comes probably the most important step of this process:
Put that wedding ring back on or SWMBO will have your balls for this!


Apply a liberal amount of white glue onto the surface, place the foil on top and use a soft, long bristled brush to make the foil snuggle down and conform to the shapes.





Cut off the excess foil along the edges of the display. As you can see, I have already used some plastic sheet to create a frame. Cut open the cavity for the hull along the centre line.
The hull should still comfortably fit in. Now make sure that the hull is high enough. The boot topping line should be 2-3mm above the foil on all sides. If the cavity is too deep you can use e.g. wood sticks of plastic beams to create a “cradle” in the proper height.





Now, the sea-scape and frame need drying time.

TBC

Cheers,
Guido

Hi Guido Again more great stuff for the note book to try on later projects

Great work guys!