General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
1/350 IJN "Akagi" - Pearl Harbor Detail
RedDuster
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Posted: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 - 11:57 PM UTC
Great stuff Tim,

The Island is model by itself. Your attention to detail is really breathtaking.

Si
RussellE
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Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 02:54 PM UTC
Very nice bridgework Tim!

So glad you are sharing with us

Russ
HalseysBeard
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Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 05:11 PM UTC
Thanks guys!

Some of the splinter guards installed. Still have to add the restraining ropes and they still need a couple of adjustments, but you get the idea




Thanks for viewing! -Tim
TRM5150
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Posted: Wednesday, April 01, 2015 - 10:36 PM UTC
That is the stuff right there Tim!! Getting better and better! Keep plugging away!!
HalseysBeard
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Posted: Thursday, April 02, 2015 - 06:53 PM UTC
So here's a couple new pics with the splinter guards installed with their restraining ropes, added the ladders and attennas also.







HalseysBeard
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Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2015 - 10:38 AM UTC
Small update: installed the island and the flagstaff on the ship:





Still have to fold the flags a bit more, but getting there. Thanks for viewing and as always, comments and suggestions are most welcome in this thread. Cheers, Tim
RedDuster
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Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2015 - 01:12 PM UTC
Splinter padding looks excellent Tim,

As do the restraining ropes, great job.

Si
Blespooky
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Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2015 - 02:14 PM UTC
Yeah baby, wonderful as always,

Is the splinter guard literally installed to stop flying splinters from the deck hitting the bridge in the event of an attack?

Bryan
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2015 - 02:47 PM UTC
I'll second that! Wonderful, Tim!

Russ
rolltide31
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Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2015 - 05:21 PM UTC
Tim

Incredible work!!!!

Cheers
TRM5150
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Posted: Sunday, April 05, 2015 - 06:19 PM UTC
That looking superb Tim!! Some really great detailing on the island my friend!!
HalseysBeard
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Posted: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 04:01 PM UTC
Really appreciate the support guys! Thanks very much for your comments!


Added the bowsprit and the stern pole:




Note 3 "spacers" added to project light bar away from the pole a little bit and outside the railing:


Added the LAST RAILING ON THE SHIP (yay!!!) ...its the outside one of the island, here you see only about 1/4 of it unfortunately:


And a couple of misc pics:



INQUIRY: Does anyone know the correct light configeration for the stern light pole? As you can see, I have green, red and yellow "lights" on the pole, but I do not know if this is correct or if they are in the right order. I don't think it matters that much really, but as the "lights" can be easily changed, if someone knows, I'd certainly appreciate hearing.

As always, thanks for viewing and your comments and suggestions! Regards, Tim
TRM5150
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Posted: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 05:46 PM UTC
Again...WOW!! Just a great bit of modelling Tim!! Sorry I don't know too much of the light configuration! LOL, thought it looked pretty goo to be as is! Sure one of the guys might know!! Interesting question!!
varanusk
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 06:05 PM UTC
Hi,
Although I do not build ships nor I am interested in those kits, I am eagerly following your build!

It's a truly amazing job, and not only your building skills are impressive, the paint is not behind.

Thanks for sharing it,

Carlos
rolltide31
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Posted: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 06:32 PM UTC
Tim,

Just an incredible build. I like the contrast of colors such as using silver for the binoculars. I am going to steal that idea if you dont mind.

Beautiful work, she looks ready to take her air wing on.

Sorry, I do not know the light configuration but based on their purpose I would think that the red would be on the outside verse the yellow, indicating that the pilot is too high or too far right or left.

Dave
HalseysBeard
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Posted: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 11:07 PM UTC
Thanks so much guys! And a good friend sent me this illustration of the light bar and the correct colors. I am in the process of changing out the yellow ones for green and the center one to white. I include the pic here for anyone who wants to save it for when they do a Japanese ship with these equipped. Thanks again for your input and interest! -Tim

HalseysBeard
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Posted: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 - 11:12 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Tim,

I like the contrast of colors such as using silver for the binoculars. I am going to steal that idea if you dont mind.
Dave



Certainly, no problem Dave! I just wished I used that color earlier when doing the superstructure binoculars as when they are painted flat gray, they or more or less just disappear. I may go back and handpaint them because they do look good in person done that way.

What I did was paint them with Vallejo Aluminum, and then gave them a wash with MIG black wash to show the details and tone them down a bit. Cheers, Tim
RedDuster
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Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 12:51 AM UTC
Looking great Tim,

The etchwork is impressive, really coming together.

Si
rolltide31
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Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 03:53 AM UTC
Tim,

Thanks, the aluminum definitely makes them pop. As you said, the grey makes them disappear in the background. Also thanks for the information regarding the light configuration. I may need it soon as it looks like I may get my hands on the IJN Hiryu...keeping fingers crossed..

Dave
HalseysBeard
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Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 04:13 PM UTC
So here's a quick pic of my corrected "light bar" (I think they are actually maneuvering or navigation lights, I thought previously they were glide path lights for the pilots...but I think not now)


And I started with the catch nets that surround the flight deck...here's three installed:



Thanks for viewing and your comments and observations are most welcome! -Tim
TRM5150
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Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 05:08 PM UTC
Navigation lights sounds about right to me! A little bit of warning before this monster takes a left or right would be a good thing!! Some great work on the nets!! Such an amazing amount of detail on this and gets better and better!!
raivo74
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Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 05:59 PM UTC
Awesome piece of the most meticulous modelling here, Tim.

I would suggest to make catching nets more realistic, as the original netting itself was rather thin ropes and the panels were convex as in the pic below.



I think wire mesh used in some herbal tea cups would be ideal for this purpose. Or maybe some nylon stockings or similar material.
HalseysBeard
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Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 06:52 PM UTC
Thanks for the suggestion ramondius...do you have any examples of anyone doing that? I can see it being a nightmare without building all those catch nets from scratch. Its impossible to round-bend just the netting portion down towards the center of the photoetch nets without bending and distorting the "frames" that hold the netting.

I've seen them curved...that is...the whole rack of nets including the frames curved in a slight roll, but that too is incorrect and to my (alleged) mind, looks worse than leaving them straight. But I'm open to influence If you are suggesting I cut out the netting protion of the pe ones and just leaving the frames and fill them in with teabag material...again I think, practically impossible. Those frames are indeed quite tiny by themseleves and would be EXTREMELY(!) fragile, its the netting that holds them together for the most part.

I'd love to see an example of someone doing that, I really would as I am open to modifiying them...but I would not be willing to totally scratch re-build all those nets all from raw materials to accomplish some droop in the netting itself, thats for sure!

If there's a feasible way....I'm open!!

But I'll tell you what I will do ... I will put a "roll" a couple of them (as thats relatively easy to do) and mount them to get a test look. Stand by over the next day or so and I will post my results. How's that?

Thanks very much for your comment! I appreciate your time and consideration and if you have some examples of anyone doing them the way you suggest, please advise!
raivo74
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Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 10:56 PM UTC
Unfortunately, I have no good reference here. I suppose, you can make rectangular frames by wrapping thin copper wire around some plastic or wooden template, cut them and solder the ends. Then glue to the frames flat fine mesh (pieces of gauze bandage?) and press one side with a pencil or similar instrument on soft padding to make them convex. Diluted white glue could help preserve the shape. The question is if all this is worth fiddling I am eager to see the results of etched net warping that you mentioned in previous post.
You could also choose to replace rigging of the main mast. The stretched sprue halyards seem a bit off scale. Maybe dyed thin fishing line can be used instead? Just my 2 cents

I wish I could have time enough to pull out my Akagi from the stash. The job you have showed here is really inspiring
HalseysBeard
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Posted: Thursday, April 09, 2015 - 05:03 AM UTC
So I rolled a couple of them, but the camera battery went dead. But here's a pic of the same thing and in both the pic and real life on my model, I dislike the look. The support bars not not bent like that on the real thing...and I didn't like the overall appearance of them anyway. Personal choice I know....but I flattened the rolled ones out and will use them that way I think. New halyards are a work in progess