Nice work on the base Peter.

Kenny

This is great stuff, Peter. I really appreciate the step-by-step description of making a base for a waterline model. I'm looking forward to the next installment. Barry

Excellent choice of a subject and workmanship on your project, looking forward to seeing it come together as you proceed. I am also enjoying all the tips and ideas that you are bringing out in this build.

BTW, Peter. Could I get a scan of the camouflage pattern? I have the 1/350 kit, and that pattern looks too good to pass up (someday).

Thanks...

Great work Peter wish I had your paitience with the smaller details thanks for the informative tips.

Way too fast, Peter!
You'll be finished by November, with no more updates for 7 months! Or will you make a whole fleet until then!?
Excellent tutorial on the waterbase!... will try that sometime soon!

Not as quick as you think my friend, that photoetch will have me straining and losing points
as I piece together the miniscule detail. You get to a point where you think you can see the end but there's always a couple of months work yet to do.

My next phase is the update from WW1 armoured cruiser to WW2 full camo update and conversion. I have the pictures to hand, and I will shortly be doing an overlay compariosn with reference to the "walkaround pictures". again not an easy phase other than going to see the ship myself with pencil paper and tape measure.

I struggle forward............

Peter F

Great!
Can't wait!

BTW, Guido is your little boy taller than you?

And so, nothing quite lines up as you think it should and as I progress with the build, I must now make the comparrison of the WW1 Averoff with the WW2 camo version.

I have three pictures which illustrate my first effort at trying to understand this :

The first picture shows the WW1 version as a tracing paper copy overlaid onto the darker camo version picture.


With a felt tip I have marked up the differences - however only the printed version. A look at the real life "walkaround" pictures should confirm my findings.


Finally, I have gotten rid of those mast head wires and spreaders - RESULT!


Peter F

Very interesting article on water.
Looking forward to more.

Chris

Well done Peter,

You and Rui are showing me that you can build a ship model by hand painting. You have given me the incentive to tackle this style.

Thanks!

Frank

Hi, Frank, I'll try any method to see if it will improve what I think is a better result and thererfore I'm not stuck with any particular routine The best reason why this kit is painted first is because I need to line up, and be sure of the camo as it's a major part of the build. Also I find it difficult to paint round corners once things are in place.

Also, Part 2 of the water/ship base will be up next month.

Cheers,

Peter F

Good job Peter!
I like your method of "Spot the differences" on both versions!
Keep up mate!


Rui

Nice "paperwork"!



PS.: Not yet taller, but certainly more intelligent

Time for a bit of drilling :

This is something I don't have to be at the bench for, however to keep it all in context for this demonstration, I continue with the drilling out the funnels, port holes, and anchors eyelets on the bow.

The portholes on the kit are acceptable but to add the extra touch, I always drill them out as well. I have an array of drill diameters and they are mainly finger drills as shown. The art is not to twist them in too tight or vigorously and that way they don't break. If they do, they are difficult to remove.

Also as the photographs are taken, it's a good time to review the work on a large screen. This way you can identify "rough" areas of the build and do something about it before you progress.

It may be difficult to see errors by eye but when they are eradicated, the finished model is much smoother, and more convincing.


















Peter F.

Hi Peter. Nice work with all that drilling. Will you be using paint to highlight the detail later? Barry

Hi, Barry, there are many ways of enhancing the detail, and I am not closed to using new methods. I have seen a sharpened pencil being used to twirl in the porthole aperture and I think I may favour this. Unlike a dark pen, or feltip it's more subtle, and leaves a slight shine.

Also the scuttles can be drawn on, little eyebrows in pencil - but this will come much later. If you imagine drawing a picture of a face, the broad brush strokes come first to make sure the form and massing are acceptable, and then you start working on the middle detail finally focusing in on the fine detail when you're happy that everything is correct. This is how I will progress.

Cheers,

Peter F

Looks good Peter!
Are those Proxxon drills? - just curious


Rui

Those drills didn't have a name on them, Rui. I buy most of them at Telford - I just chuck 'em in the carrier bag and walk on to the next trader. No doubt this year will be the same.

It does remind me also to have a tools check, I shall arrange them on the workbench to let folks know what I use and what's at my disposal - I have at least a dozen of everything so I don't have to look for things, and - it works!

Cheers,

Peter F

Putting the hull too one side, and continuing with the water presentation, I will now develop the texture of the seascape with diluted Tamiya black acrylic.


The Tamiya paint cleaner is used to make a light wash with the black paint. This gives the green a more mottled look and gets away from the "billiard table effect" of an overall green.








I will show the ship at anchor, in which case I will not need to white dry brush the bow wave and screw churning effect.


Continuing, I now fix the base with pva glue. One generous coat sets the whole base, and can be used as a finish. I will normally use a second coat, or use polyurethane for an even glossier finish to suit the subject and mood.





When I put on the second coat I will also cover the void where the ship goes and therefore cement the ship in place, but this will come later. The ship as shown on the base is a dry fit.




Peter F

Very impressive Peter!

Beautiful, Peter. You are an artist! Barry

That is just greatwork...love how it looks, will have to try that method down the road..cheers

Thank you very much gentelmen, much appreciated. that is as simple and graphic as I can make it and if you copy the method step by step, you will have the same result in which case its methos rather than art but that's fine with me.

So, its back to the ship now, and time to sharpen up the camo scheme - its looking a bit rough in the picture and needs to be more defined for the photography.

Cheers.

Peter F