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MSW Group Build : Peter F : G Averoff
beefy66
Joined: October 22, 2007
KitMaker: 971 posts
Model Shipwrights: 645 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 - 11:25 PM UTC
It might be my eyes but the cam and the reflection in the water base look verey sharp to me thanks for another great method to follow from. Now how the hell can i save these tips to a folder or disc because my memory is not that good at the best of times.
peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Friday, August 15, 2008 - 03:58 AM UTC
PM me your email, Keith, and I'll send you the info I have.
Also, come and see us all at Telford in November - all the guys will be there.
Cheers,
Peter F
Also, come and see us all at Telford in November - all the guys will be there.
Cheers,
Peter F
Gunny
Joined: July 13, 2004
KitMaker: 6,705 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4,704 posts
Posted: Friday, August 15, 2008 - 04:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
It might be my eyes but the cam and the reflection in the water base look verey sharp to me thanks for another great method to follow from. Now how the hell can i save these tips to a folder or disc because my memory is not that good at the best of times.
Hi Keith!
I'm making Peter's base technique into a full feature here at MSW, which will be available soon, stored in the MSW memory banks for all time, mate, available for your reference any time...something that I've marveled at since I first saw one of his bases....
peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 - 08:14 PM UTC
Cheers, Mark, you sure know how to flatter a lady!
So, moving on, and as I said before, it's time to sharpen up the camo scheme. I use various pencils, and the edge of a blade to start this procedure.
The WEM 507A can get a bit thick sometimes, so if its a problem i go over the work with a sharp blade. this also reduces the overwhelming effect of a very dark colour, and helps achieve a "scaled effect" - this is where vibrant colours are reduced in intensity when viewed from afar ie 1:700 scale.
When this preliminary job is done, there is a finer edge to finish off the painting, working up to the pencil line I use the 507A again.
We hear that the paint schemes were daubed on and therefore if the line is still not straight then its forgiveable.
In the meantine, I also painted in the funnel voids I made earlier, and pencilled in the scuttles. I used WEM G10 colour for the funnels, again for the scaled effect - ie, not black.
Peter F
So, moving on, and as I said before, it's time to sharpen up the camo scheme. I use various pencils, and the edge of a blade to start this procedure.
The WEM 507A can get a bit thick sometimes, so if its a problem i go over the work with a sharp blade. this also reduces the overwhelming effect of a very dark colour, and helps achieve a "scaled effect" - this is where vibrant colours are reduced in intensity when viewed from afar ie 1:700 scale.
When this preliminary job is done, there is a finer edge to finish off the painting, working up to the pencil line I use the 507A again.
We hear that the paint schemes were daubed on and therefore if the line is still not straight then its forgiveable.
In the meantine, I also painted in the funnel voids I made earlier, and pencilled in the scuttles. I used WEM G10 colour for the funnels, again for the scaled effect - ie, not black.
Peter F
beefy66
Joined: October 22, 2007
KitMaker: 971 posts
Model Shipwrights: 645 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 - 09:55 PM UTC
Peter thanks for the info will be trying it out on another project shortly
JMartine
Joined: October 18, 2007
KitMaker: 1,698 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,514 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 - 03:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Keith!
I'm making Peter's base technique into a full feature here at MSW, which will be available soon, stored in the MSW memory banks for all time, mate, available for your reference any time...something that I've marveled at since I first saw one of his bases....
yes!
thank you!peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 21, 2008 - 08:32 PM UTC
Here's a point, the good thing about this build along, is that you can see from other peoples work where your own shortfalls are :
Just now, I have learnt from Guido to keep a tidy, and organised bench - a cleaner build must surely be facilitated.
I have seen from Nanaond's work how the build can be sculptured, and how to add the pe like its a jeweler's creation.
Keith Richardson has demonstarted how to correct errors and achieve the best result - something which I must do next to update my subject for WW2.
Thank you my fellow modellers, its a pleasure to be alondside you.
Peter F
Just now, I have learnt from Guido to keep a tidy, and organised bench - a cleaner build must surely be facilitated.
I have seen from Nanaond's work how the build can be sculptured, and how to add the pe like its a jeweler's creation.
Keith Richardson has demonstarted how to correct errors and achieve the best result - something which I must do next to update my subject for WW2.
Thank you my fellow modellers, its a pleasure to be alondside you.
Peter F
goldenpony
Joined: July 03, 2007
KitMaker: 3,529 posts
Model Shipwrights: 2,419 posts
Posted: Friday, August 22, 2008 - 12:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Here's a point, the good thing about this build along, is that you can see from other peoples work where your own shortfalls are :
Just now, I have learnt from Guido to keep a tidy, and organised bench - a cleaner build must surely be facilitated.
I have seen from Nanaond's work how the build can be sculptured, and how to add the pe like its a jeweler's creation.
Keith Richardson has demonstarted how to correct errors and achieve the best result - something which I must do next to update my subject for WW2.
Thank you my fellow modellers, its a pleasure to be alondside you.
Peter F
And that is what we were also hoping this group build would do, teach everyone. No matter how skilled a person may look, they can always learn. I have picked up so many little hints/tips that I know I will be better in the end becasue of it.
I really do like that so many people involved with modeling are so open with thier knowledge, it just makes everyone better in the end.
peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Friday, August 29, 2008 - 04:40 AM UTC
Just to finish off this month's build is a very quick and simple routine and that's the boot topping, the line just above the waterline.
I like an accurate straight line, so I use "extradecal" transfers, and I'm holding up the sheet to see what it looks like. I bought this example from WEM.
Before the decal goes on, I paint the area to be treated with clear gloss. This gives the transparent part above and below the decal a see through surface and hence there is no "silvering"
I choose a proportionally narrow line, cut it off the sheet, and then divide it up as shown for easier handling, and then in it goes into luke warm water.
To make it easier to handle, I use tweezers to grab, and then put it in place piece by piece.
The line must be straight but it doesn't matter if there's a space below as you can paint that or it disappears into the pre-made base.
Finally, the decal is treated with matt coat. The finished line will then look as if it has been painted on.
Peter F
I like an accurate straight line, so I use "extradecal" transfers, and I'm holding up the sheet to see what it looks like. I bought this example from WEM.
Before the decal goes on, I paint the area to be treated with clear gloss. This gives the transparent part above and below the decal a see through surface and hence there is no "silvering"
I choose a proportionally narrow line, cut it off the sheet, and then divide it up as shown for easier handling, and then in it goes into luke warm water.
To make it easier to handle, I use tweezers to grab, and then put it in place piece by piece.
The line must be straight but it doesn't matter if there's a space below as you can paint that or it disappears into the pre-made base.
Finally, the decal is treated with matt coat. The finished line will then look as if it has been painted on.
Peter F
Karybdis
Joined: December 27, 2006
KitMaker: 846 posts
Model Shipwrights: 740 posts
Posted: Friday, August 29, 2008 - 04:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Just now, I have learnt from Guido to keep a tidy, and organised bench - a cleaner build must surely be facilitated.
I have seen from Nanaond's work how the build can be sculptured, and how to add the pe like its a jeweler's creation.
Keith Richardson has demonstarted how to correct errors and achieve the best result - something which I must do next to update my subject for WW2.
And Dade has shown what the definition of "slow" is!
Kidding aside, great work, Peter! 
peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 31, 2008 - 08:01 PM UTC
Cheers, Dade, and I thought I was the slow one. Are you trying to say that you've beaten me into the silver medal place?
Peter F
Peter F
Gunny
Joined: July 13, 2004
KitMaker: 6,705 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4,704 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 31, 2008 - 11:12 PM UTC
"Build Session 3 Closed~Keep Modeling!"
peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 - 12:52 AM UTC
Thank you to Yiannis for pointing out that I had the fore and aft funnels transposed, and fortunately I am at a preliminary stage so that the fixing of this problem was easy to do. Lesson : read the instructions, and understnd them!
To break the funnels away I use a large Kleenex , and manipulate them with my fingers putting on enough pressure to make the break. Both funnels came off cleanly, and I glued them both back on in the right places. Cheers to Rui for passing on the message.
And so, now that we are in a sticking mood, I proceeded with the deck vents. These have a lug to place them into prearranged holes in the deck. To avoid having to drill these out more, I cut off the lugs, and centered the vents over the holes.
Looking at the detailed photographs, the vents have the opening just under the cowl so I used the pencil again to darken this in and make it more thre dimensional.
For the funnel replacement, and the positioning of the vents, I turned the hull upside down, and level and placed it on 2 x paint tins. Hopefully everything will dry and stick to the 90 degrees.
Peter F
To break the funnels away I use a large Kleenex , and manipulate them with my fingers putting on enough pressure to make the break. Both funnels came off cleanly, and I glued them both back on in the right places. Cheers to Rui for passing on the message.
And so, now that we are in a sticking mood, I proceeded with the deck vents. These have a lug to place them into prearranged holes in the deck. To avoid having to drill these out more, I cut off the lugs, and centered the vents over the holes.
Looking at the detailed photographs, the vents have the opening just under the cowl so I used the pencil again to darken this in and make it more thre dimensional.
For the funnel replacement, and the positioning of the vents, I turned the hull upside down, and level and placed it on 2 x paint tins. Hopefully everything will dry and stick to the 90 degrees.
Peter F
skipper
Joined: February 28, 2002
KitMaker: 5,182 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4,070 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 - 02:34 AM UTC
Ahoy there Peter!
Looking good and you don't have to thank me for nothing!
Now you just have to repaint the appropriate camo on the funnel (fore and aft)
Clever trick on the fixing of the vents - must write this down!
Keep on
Rui
Looking good and you don't have to thank me for nothing!
Now you just have to repaint the appropriate camo on the funnel (fore and aft)
Clever trick on the fixing of the vents - must write this down!
Keep on
Rui
peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 12:51 AM UTC
Avoiding the really smaller detail, I've decided to fix on the secondary armament. The resin parts are fine but the brass barrels always give a sharper look to the scheme, and I certainly need that!
The barrels I have in stock are good sustitutes for the secondary armament as you can see but are a bit too long. These barrels are the Lion Roar 203mm German Navy types, however, to make them the right length I have used plyer cutters to snip off the ends.
To give these a grip on the turrets, I have drilled out the casing with a finger drill but not too much, and then stuck these in place with superglue - the blast bags wil come later.
To make sure the barrels sit together on the same level, and height I have used my tweezers as a cradle as shown (so I won't be using those for half an hour - over and out).
Next, I must improve the paint work, and update my funnels as Rui says. And I would say, if you're not happy with the look of the finish then don't accept it - keep trying.
Peter F.
The barrels I have in stock are good sustitutes for the secondary armament as you can see but are a bit too long. These barrels are the Lion Roar 203mm German Navy types, however, to make them the right length I have used plyer cutters to snip off the ends.
To give these a grip on the turrets, I have drilled out the casing with a finger drill but not too much, and then stuck these in place with superglue - the blast bags wil come later.
To make sure the barrels sit together on the same level, and height I have used my tweezers as a cradle as shown (so I won't be using those for half an hour - over and out).
Next, I must improve the paint work, and update my funnels as Rui says. And I would say, if you're not happy with the look of the finish then don't accept it - keep trying.
Peter F.
jba
Joined: November 04, 2005
KitMaker: 1,845 posts
Model Shipwrights: 502 posts
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 01:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
if you're not happy with the look of the finish then don't accept it - keep trying.
ahh, quote of the day
looks good still 
peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 02:09 AM UTC
Sometimes I just want to chuck 'em all in the bin JB., it's a very frustrating game we play. Sometimes they look good but if I'm honest ...............
Cheers,
Peter F
Cheers,
Peter F
DrDull
Joined: February 23, 2006
KitMaker: 133 posts
Model Shipwrights: 128 posts
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 03:19 AM UTC
Still looks plenty good to me, Peter. Barry
skipper
Joined: February 28, 2002
KitMaker: 5,182 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4,070 posts
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 04:01 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Sometimes I just want to chuck 'em all in the bin JB., it's a very frustrating game we play. Sometimes they look good but if I'm honest ...............
Cheers,
Peter F
Well Peter (Jean-Bernard and all)...
There's no model in my collection (built, of course) that I would consider perfect or flawless! There's always something I could have done in another way, or improve or even done right!
Models and Dioramas, work as a whole, and even if they look right to the viewer, there will (always) be something there that we could have done better
The good part is that we tend to learn with our own mistakes, improve our skills, discover new tricks and tips... and if we can have all of this with a great bunch of great guys: it's a win win situation!
Keep on working on your Averoff - I want to take pictures of it in Telford (same applies to Guido's Leipzig!)
Rui
Tailor
Joined: May 26, 2008
KitMaker: 1,168 posts
Model Shipwrights: 676 posts
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 04:20 AM UTC
The day I finish a perfect model, I will put down my modelling knife for good!
As long as there is room for improvement, as long I will feel alive! As long as there is room for improvement, as long I will pick up the next model from the stash.
Rui- You'll have to wait until SMW 2009 for my Leipizig to appear publicly. Peter's Averoff - I don't know! He is realy putting up some serious speed here!
Cheers mates!
Guido
As long as there is room for improvement, as long I will feel alive! As long as there is room for improvement, as long I will pick up the next model from the stash.
Rui- You'll have to wait until SMW 2009 for my Leipizig to appear publicly. Peter's Averoff - I don't know! He is realy putting up some serious speed here!
Cheers mates!
Guido
skipper
Joined: February 28, 2002
KitMaker: 5,182 posts
Model Shipwrights: 4,070 posts
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 04:25 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The day I finish a perfect model, I will put down my modelling knife for good!
As long as there is room for improvement, as long I will feel alive! As long as there is room for improvement, as long I will pick up the next model from the stash.
Dito Guido! I fully agree with you!
Quoted Text
Rui- You'll have to wait until SMW 2009 for my Leipizig to appear publicly. Peter's Averoff - I don't know! He is realy putting up some serious speed here!
Cheers mates!
Guido
I can wait and this means... we are going to meet again next year!
Are the Gamblers planning a trip to SMW this year?
Rui
peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 05:13 AM UTC
Don't worry, guys, it's only an Arrchitects' thing. I will be happy with a reasonable result as the next one will be even better. However, I have written up my work schedule for tonight which includes painting , cutting and filling - and so I continue.
Speedwise, it looks quick but its very deceptive, and this kit will take the full twelve months for sure as it becomes more complicated and richer with detail. Don't forget, ONLY 9 months left - PANIC!
Thanks for watching, guys.
Peter F
Speedwise, it looks quick but its very deceptive, and this kit will take the full twelve months for sure as it becomes more complicated and richer with detail. Don't forget, ONLY 9 months left - PANIC!
Thanks for watching, guys.
Peter F
Tailor
Joined: May 26, 2008
KitMaker: 1,168 posts
Model Shipwrights: 676 posts
Posted: Friday, September 05, 2008 - 05:15 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I can wait and this means... we are going to meet again next year!
Are the Gamblers planning a trip to SMW this year?
Rui
We'll be there!
Cheers,
Guido
grayghost666
#021
Joined: August 02, 2007
KitMaker: 2,458 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,423 posts
KitMaker: 2,458 posts
Model Shipwrights: 1,423 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 06, 2008 - 08:33 PM UTC
hello Peter,
i am sorry i have not posted in awhile.you have a great build blog and you are doing a fantastic job on your build.thank you for sharing how you do your bases,i will be using this on a future build of mine.
i have found that using future floor wax for decals works better then a clear coat to stopping decal silvering,but to each his own.
keep up the great work,and i will be watching this build closer,i am learning alot from you.
cheers,
Bruce
i am sorry i have not posted in awhile.you have a great build blog and you are doing a fantastic job on your build.thank you for sharing how you do your bases,i will be using this on a future build of mine.
i have found that using future floor wax for decals works better then a clear coat to stopping decal silvering,but to each his own.
keep up the great work,and i will be watching this build closer,i am learning alot from you.
cheers,
Bruce
peterf
Joined: November 23, 2007
KitMaker: 426 posts
Model Shipwrights: 424 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 07, 2008 - 08:14 PM UTC
Cheers, Bruce, good to hear from you. I have Future Floor Wax, so I'll give it a try. the reason why I have this is because I used it as a final finish for the sea - it's Jim Baumann's choice when he first evolved the method. I'm always looking for alternatives, and better ways to do things, I'm not stuck with any particular methods at all.
The latest on the Averoff build is one big weekend fixing all the problem areas.
1/. I cut the secondary armament barrels a tad shorter as the current ones were too long.
2/. I did a lot of second coats of paint to sharpen up the overall impact. Including the funnel revision, Rui - thanks for the reminder, I'm glad you're looking at the detail closer than I am - keep it up - please.
3/. I brightened up some of the portholes with the HB pencil.
4/. I reconstruicted the bridge so it now has an inside complete with wheel, compas etc, and crew - this was one of the major tasks, and it was worrying me more than anything else - everything is fine now.
5/. Also I used some varnish on the sea.
Now I'm good to continue - I told you it would all take a long time.
Peter F
The latest on the Averoff build is one big weekend fixing all the problem areas.
1/. I cut the secondary armament barrels a tad shorter as the current ones were too long.
2/. I did a lot of second coats of paint to sharpen up the overall impact. Including the funnel revision, Rui - thanks for the reminder, I'm glad you're looking at the detail closer than I am - keep it up - please.
3/. I brightened up some of the portholes with the HB pencil.
4/. I reconstruicted the bridge so it now has an inside complete with wheel, compas etc, and crew - this was one of the major tasks, and it was worrying me more than anything else - everything is fine now.
5/. Also I used some varnish on the sea.
Now I'm good to continue - I told you it would all take a long time.
Peter F
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