Ships by Class/Type: Submarines
Topics on submarines of all types and eras.
Building Bronco's Big Type XXIII Sub
TAFFY3
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 02:00 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking excellent Al, nice paint job. The weathering on the screw works a treat, muting down the brass colour.
Julian



Thanks Julian, just MM Acrylic 'Raw Umber' dry brushed onto the screw. Al
TAFFY3
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 02:07 AM UTC
Michael, I have a question about the mounting for the UZO binoculars. Bronco gives you a thin rod to mount them on which doesn't seem right to me. The mounting on a Type VIIC is much more substantial.



The one on the left is the older model, the one on the right the newer one. I should think that the one used on the XXIII would be the same as the newer one of these. What do you think? Al
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 04:50 AM UTC
Hi Al,
there's a great difference between the binocular mountings on the XXIII type boat and the bigger ones like VII, IX or XXI.
For a surface launch the binocular (UZS-6 - UBoot-Zielsäule 6) was only able to enlarge the target and to find the direction to the aimed target, but not to hand over the direction to the torpedo data processor. All other parameters like speed, depth and course had to be feeded by hand to the processor.
For a torpedo launch while submerged the needed parameters went from the periscope via "TZR-Geber" in the tower directly to the data processor and therefore to the torpedo. Maybe that was the reason for positioning the speaking tube nearby the "directionfinder-binocular"!?
On the greater boats (VII; IX; XXI) all needed parameters (direction and course) went directly from UZO to the data processor/torpedo.
On this account the binocular mounting on XXIII boats was very simple - only a pole to look over towers edge or the folded up step. Maybe there was a grade scale on the edge of that disc on the modelpart, we call UZO plate - would make sense.


Michael
TAFFY3
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 05:44 AM UTC
Michael, Thanks for the reply and the info. If you look at the tower in Plan #11, on page 82 of V.O.Z.Modell, you'll see the base for the UZO is more substantial, two tiered on the bottom and then a thin rod just below the binoculars. I wasn't completely sure how accurate this was but going by what you've told me I think that's how I'll do mine. Al
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 07:53 AM UTC
Al, if you look at the head-on view of the tower in plan 11, it looks like there's an elevated plate just below the UZO ... which would probably be graduated to show relative bearing to the target. Don't see this elevated plate in the profile view, however. My guess, and this is only a guess, is that the UZO mount removed completely from the semicircular base plate and that the base plate was used as a step whenever clambering over the bridge coaming. That would mount the UZO permanently (and precisely) to the graduated dial beneath it ... all as a single unit.

Now, where can I find a decal with a compass dial about that size?
Gotrek58
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 08:57 AM UTC
Hello Al,
on plan #11 - front view - are 2 handgrips visible below the binocular; and also some buttons or switches on a square plate. That looks like the aiming device of an S-boat. And that's definitely wrong - there was NO connection to the torpedo data processor! Only a binocular on a pole and a foldable step above the plate - documented by pics. I think the plans are the best we have, but we have to be very careful with some details. Just my 2 cents...
Btw. what special boat do you want to represent? I don't know any type XXIII boat in german service wearing this black line. Sorry, but I'm afraid that Bronco is wrong again here - as other manufacturers too. Like that white band which was yellow in reality...
Maybe we overstate that UZO-problem. I believe that device was rarely used and the XXIII boats truly strength was the silent submerged attack. The wolfpack attacks at night and surfaced were outdated 1944/45 and a deadly risk for this coastal subs!


Michael
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 09:52 AM UTC
By the way ... the ship's whistle in the front of the tower, just above the liferaft bin ... was the source of a bit of fun for the commander after surfacing with new crewmembers topside getting ready to handle lines as they approached the pier. He would have them line up on the deck's centerline forward of the sail ... facing the side that the lines would be coming from.

As the ship got closer to the pier, the experienced crew members would move away from the new guys ... back nearer the sides of the sail ... knowing what was coming. As the boat drew nearer the pier, the commander would order that air be cut in to the whistle and it be tested. All that sea water in the air plumbing would gush out of the horn and spray the forward deck ... followed by a bellowing blast of what sounds like a fog horn on steroids. The old hands standing back as well as the pierside line handlers ... and certainly the commander ... would have a good laugh!

Can you guess how I learned about that?
TAFFY3
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 - 10:18 AM UTC
Michael, you may be right about the stripe, but short of repainting the entire hull, I'm forced to live with it. However in the lower photo taken of a very weathered boat there does appear to be the remains of a stripe between the upper and lower hull colors.



If I'm understanding the caption right it is U-2360 being hoisted. There seems to be a lot of variation between these boats. Short of finding a series of photos covering all angles of one particular boat a few compromises will have to be made. As for the UZO, we'll have to take our best guess, or leave it off all together and fold down the step. Al
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Posted: Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 06:53 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Michael, I have a question about the mounting for the UZO binoculars. Bronco gives you a thin rod to mount them on which doesn't seem right to me. The mounting on a Type VIIC is much more substantial.



The one on the left is the older model, the one on the right the newer one. I should think that the one used on the XXIII would be the same as the newer one of these. What do you think? Al



Here are two pictures of U-2360 (it was the experimental type XXIII with enclosed conning tower). As you can see the UZO is the newer mount. I'm 99% sure that all types XXIII used the new mount.
Hope it helps.



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Posted: Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 10:22 PM UTC
Libor,

The black band around the barrel ... is a relative degree display, yes?

The mount looks permanently mounted to me ... which means the folding step would have to be significantly higher than the base plate for this ... or the base place would have to be lowered to accommodate this mount. With this mount, a folding step is a must for safety, I think.

Can you advise us on the folding step, sir?

Thanks for submitting these excellent photos!
Gotrek58
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Posted: Friday, July 12, 2013 - 12:22 AM UTC
...sorry gents, but this pedestal on U-2360 is very noteworthy, because it was only used for test purposes as U-2360 was also equiped with an experimental tower mantle. And this pedestal was NOT in use on type XXIII boats in service like our model! There was no connection from UZO pole to the torpedo data processor.


Michael
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Posted: Friday, July 12, 2013 - 01:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...sorry gents, but this pedestal on U-2360 is very noteworthy, because it was only used for test purposes as U-2360 was also equiped with an experimental tower mantle. And this pedestal was NOT in use on type XXIII boats in service like our model! There was no connection from UZO pole to the torpedo data processor.


Michael



It seems possible to me, that what this photo shows is that they used just the upper most part of an UZO only. The mounting point for the Binoculars and not the more sophisticated workings contained in the 'post', or main body of an UZO. That piece shown looks to me like it is bolted to the top of the tower, not passing through a hole, like it would if it was part of a complete UZO. Just my two cents worth. Al
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Posted: Friday, July 12, 2013 - 01:52 AM UTC
The mount looks permanently mounted to me ... which means the folding step would have to be significantly higher than the base plate for this ... or the base place would have to be lowered to accommodate this mount. With this mount, a folding step is a must for safety, I think. [quoted}

William, I think in the photo it looks permanently mounted because of the more enclosed bridge design of U-2360. On other boats we know the location of the mounting plate and the step, so it probably would be stowed when in port to allow access to and from the deck. IMHO it would be only mounted when needed, at sea on patrol. Al
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Posted: Friday, July 12, 2013 - 04:50 AM UTC
UZO of U-2360



...not really neccessary for our type of beast, but perhaps that kind of scale (in 5 and 10 degree steps) is of some interest. I assume that there's a related scale on the edge of that disc on the UZO plate...


Michael
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Posted: Friday, July 12, 2013 - 06:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

UZO of U-2360



...not really neccessary for our type of beast, but perhaps that kind of scale (in 5 and 10 degree steps) is of some interest. I assume that there's a related scale on the edge of that disc on the UZO plate...


Michael



Michael, that picture looks like the close-up of my small picture. I was wondering if you could tell me where the picture came from? I plan on building U-2360 (with the closed bridge) as my next project. I would really appreciate if you could share with me all the pics of this boat.
Your reference sources seem to be much than mine.
If you would prefer I can PM you my email so you can send them there?
Thanks in advance!
Gotrek58
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Posted: Friday, July 12, 2013 - 06:55 AM UTC
Hi Libor,
it's a scan and increased. I found the 2 pics of U-2360 in " U-Boot im Focus" #1. A very nice booklet series in german/english.


Michael
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Posted: Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 04:26 AM UTC
Hi all,
as yet stated, my beast will be U-2336. And a second view on this pic brought it to light: nearly al boats seem to be different:



I believe, that there were 2 rows of flood vents at the aft part of the tower in the cover over the muffler like on U-2322:



What's your opinion?


Michael
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Posted: Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 05:43 AM UTC
Michael, it appears that after 2321, the boats gained the extra higher rows of flood ports, beginning with 2322 ... probably to enhance crash diving performance. I note also that the hole patterns atop the muffler fairing changed as well to dual rows of oblong ports, rather than the single row of round holes.

Not only does this permit faster diving, but losing all the air from the voids just as soon as you dive eliminates a long bubble trail behind the diving boat ... which would betray the direction the boat is turning immediately after diving. That alka seltzer trail of bubbles is a tattletale when you're trying to escape an aircraft, nicht war?


IF you can accurately get those holes drilled, then you should be able to join them into oblong ports with a saw. Remember that you also need to chamfer the ports from inside to simulate the thin metal casing.

I'm hoping Eduard will include some optional port patterns whenever they finally kick out a PE kit for this guy.

I would also look into some of the 1/72 PE kits for the type VIIs ... to see if any of those would fit the bill for the upper oblong holes atop the casing. I have some that I bought for my resin kit that I may enlist for those smaller ports. See http://www.modelbrass.com/revell_viic.htm .
Gotrek58
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Posted: Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 11:41 AM UTC
No U-2336 without that double row, but at first a template was made. A small strap over the existing row, marked from the backside and drilled:



The markings were transfered to the model parts with a small drill and the holes were opened with a bigger one:



This holes were connected with a panel scriber to get a helpful guide for a thin chamfer followed by some work to reduce the thickness:



"Some" grinding was the rest to get these oval holes for the 2nd. row.
...and I'm pleased with the result!



It's better to study the pics first before doing some rough work...
But all small installations of the tower parts remained in best condition


Michael
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Posted: Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 11:51 AM UTC
One additional observation I might make is that the overall height of the muffler fairing is larger on some boats. The smaller fairings are right at 1/3 the overall height of the sail ... and the larger ones approach 1/2 of the overlal height of the sail. These fairings contain additional tanks mounted above the muffler, which is why they're taller.

See Plan 1 and compare it to plan 2 in the book.

Our model's muffler fairing is right at 1/3 overall sail height ... so I'd stick with the single row of holes if I were you, sir.
BubbleheadSparks
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Posted: Saturday, July 13, 2013 - 02:36 PM UTC
Well, I see I posted just after your post ... didn't get to see yours. Nicely done, Michael! The patterns varied somewhat, as we've already noted, and no two boats were the same. The dual rows on some were much closer to the bottom, but I think yours will do just fine. Nice precision there!
Removed by original poster on 07/15/13 - 01:04:08 (GMT).
BubbleheadSparks
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Posted: Monday, July 15, 2013 - 01:20 PM UTC
http://www.gsitek-props.co.uk/categories.asp?cat=10

Much more accurate than that thick Frankenstein propellor in the kit.

In particular, this one:
http://www.gsitek-props.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=MP01

with long boss. 50mm right hand screw. $20. Spend an hour with emory paper getting the edges razor sharp and then leave it out in the weather a few days to tarnish. Glue onto a brass shaft and install.
Gotrek58
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Posted: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 - 12:08 AM UTC
THX for your investigation - I've just ordred one of these props!


Michael
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Posted: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 - 07:56 AM UTC
Me, too. I plan to sharpen the tip of the hub to a fine point by mounting on a screw and spinning it slowly in a drill, using a fine file to dress the hub. Polish overall with rouge and then tarnish it on the roof. Apply a little brown shoe polish to darken the brass just a little after a few days on the roof. It'll look just like bronze.