Hi Tim,

The bridge roof is nice and busy. The signalman's positions look good, will you be adding the two end verticals and the top bar in the opening?

Cheers

Si

Though not as easy to work as styrene plastic, the new 3D printed parts go a long way to update Nichimo’s basic injection molded shapes.

What I want to know is how often Tim has to visit the optometrist. I’d go cross eyed putting all that detail into a ship kit at the rate he builds this stuff. He must also have tweezers for fingers, cause there’s no way I’d be able to handle detail like the PE signal posts without crushing them in my fat fingers. Bravo Tim!
VR, Russ

You will laugh, but my high tech optical boost system consists of a pair of Dollar Store reading glasses with lenses from a second pair taped over them to double the magnification.

Really, these are what I use!

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You will laugh, but my high tech optical boost system consists of a pair of Dollar Store reading glasses with lenses from a second pair taped over them to double the magnification.

Really, these are what I use!

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Nice, restrained colour scheme there!

Actually, you probably could have broken this down into several "kits". I mean you are adding enough detail to the bridge to make it almost a stand alone kit by itself. However, have to admit I am enjoying the heck out of this one.
Bob

Tim,

Your modification for the windows sure reduced the view looking out from the bridge. Was that the design of the ship? Kinda reminds me of the low windows on a Chrysler 300 sedan.

Mark

These measures did reduce the various windows to the correct heights, but now that I've smoothed and faired everything in it has become evident that my changes also created an inaccurate overhang, giving the bridge “face” a sort of heavy brow ridge. Yuck.

Wow Tim,

this is simply amazing! As was said by everyone before... Just brilliant how you look into every single detail! I hope you'll find a solution to the overhang - your bridge looks just marvelous!

Cheers
Jan

Ooo, tough dilemma, Tim... Short of pulling off the plastic sheeting and recessing it back in, I can't think of anything...

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What I want to know is how often Tim has to visit the optometrist. I’d go cross eyed putting all that detail into a ship kit at the rate he builds this stuff. He must also have tweezers for fingers, cause there’s no way I’d be able to handle detail like the PE signal posts without crushing them in my fat fingers. Bravo Tim!
VR, Russ

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You will laugh, but my high tech optical boost system consists of a pair of Dollar Store reading glasses with lenses from a second pair taped over them to double the magnification.

Really, these are what I use!

Tim,
Looking good! Necessity is the mother of invention they say. I think they’re great! Do you play Elton John music while wearing them? I used to have an optivisor, but I also wear trifocals, and found the combination a real pain to manage. In fact, I’d take my glasses off to work small details with (I’m nearsighted), but lately, as I’ve gotten even older, I’ve found I need something else, so like you, I have the same kind of set up. I bought a cheap pair of +3 reading magnifiers, and a set of +2 and +3 “clip ons” from Micro-Mark that I just clip over the cheapo magnifiers, that way I can flip them up when I need to change the diopter. But I have to admit, they’re not as stylish as yours

As for the windows... you could trim it all off, and place the styrene strip on the underside of the overhang, rather than the edge. That would bring the trim down, with no “overbite”. But if you look at the windows in the photo, I think they’re all the same size— it’s just the ones facing the bow are placed higher than the ones to port or starboard, so you’d only need to have the “trim” on the overhang on the port and starboard side, with no trim facing the bow, and then run a strip “under” the bow windows to raise them. My two cents worth. This is going to really be something when finished.
VR, Russ